First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Blot a fresh spill up with a dry cloth or paper towel.
- Rinse the spot with plain water to clear loose residue.
- Keep the stained area wet while you work on it.
- Stop if the surface starts to look etched or pitted.
Concrete is porous, so a spill that soaks in is tougher to lift with every day it sits. Most surface marks on a patio, driveway or garage floor respond to a good soak and scrub with water and mild detergent, but the stain type decides whether you need anything stronger. Deep, older marks can need a poultice left under plastic for 24 hours, and they carry more risk of damage, so test a hidden patch first.
Let a stained cement patio dry completely before you judge the result, since wet concrete always looks darker. Don't mix cleaners together on a driveway stain, because the leftover residue can make the next step harder. If a stain on your polished concrete floor is still there after a couple of tries, call a pro before the finish gets damaged.
Before you start
What this material can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Hot water
- Soaking
Use with care5
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
6 items
What you'll need
Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.
- Stiff fiber brushDry-brushes loose dirt off without damaging the surface. (opens Amazon)
- Stiff bristle brush, non-metalScrubs the detergent in without leaving rusting particles behind. (opens Amazon)
- Mild liquid dish soap or kitchen cleanserThe detergent for the scrub step. (opens Amazon)
- Garden hose or bucket of waterSoaks the concrete first and rinses the cleaner away.
- Pressure washer (optional)For stubborn dirt only, at or below 400 psi with a 25 to 50 degree fan tip. (opens Amazon)
- Plastic sheetingKeeps a poultice moist for the full 24 hours. (opens Amazon)
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Test a hidden patch first
Pick a spot that won't show, such as an edge or corner of the slab, and try the gentlest method there first. Let that patch dry before you judge the result, because wet concrete looks darker than it will once it has dried.
Step 2 of 6
Dry-brush the loose dirt
Sweep the surface with a stiff fiber brush so the loose dirt and grit come off before any liquid touches the stain. If the dirt is packed on, dampen the brush with water and work in small circles.
Careful. Never use a wire brush: it can leave rusting particles and damages mortar joints.
Step 3 of 6
Soak the area before cleaning
Saturate the stained spot and the concrete around it with water until it won't take any more. Soaking first keeps the cleaner on the surface where it can work instead of sinking deep into the concrete.
Tip. Keep a hose or bucket close so the area stays wet while you work.
Step 4 of 6
Scrub and rinse thoroughly
Scrub the wet spot with a mild liquid dish soap or kitchen cleanser and a stiff bristle (non-metal) brush, working in small sections. Rinse each section with plenty of water before you move to the next.
Tip. Start with light pressure and add more only if the stain won't budge.
Careful. Don't let cleaning solution dry on the masonry.
Step 5 of 6
Pressure wash only at 400 psi
A pressure washer is optional, so use one only if the scrub didn't lift the stain. Stay at or below 400 psi with a 25 to 50 degree fan tip, held at least 12 inches from the surface.
Careful. On historic or grave stone, don't power wash at all.
Step 6 of 6
Identify the stain before going stronger
If the stain is still there after the rinse, stop and work out what it is before you try anything stronger. A testing lab can identify an unknown stain, and the stronger options for a stain you've identified are in the set-in section below.
Careful. Don't apply stronger chemicals to an unidentified stain: they can create stains that are harder to remove.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best stain removers for concrete, brick & driveways
For a rust or mineral mark, look for a proprietary masonry cleaner made for that exact stain, and follow its label. Stain-specific products are preferred over homemade mixes.
Amazon Basics Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on concrete, brick & driveways, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
See what to do for what you're seeing →If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →Know the stain? Use its own guide
Every stain on concrete, brick & driveways
Oil & grease4
Paint, glue & adhesives6
Water, rust & minerals4
Mold & outdoor5
Body fluids5
Discoloration & marks7
Smoke & burns2
Wax, gum & sticky5
Food & drink11
Ink, marker & crayon3
Makeup & personal care2
No match. Try the main search for anything else.
How to tell it's working
The stain is gone when the spot looks like the rest of the slab once it has dried completely, since wet concrete always looks darker. If a faint mark remains, give it one more soak and scrub before you switch to a stronger treatment.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your concrete, brick & driveways
Concrete patios and porches
Patios and porches take the steps above as they are, so start with the test patch, the brush and the soak. The pressure washer is the only piece that needs a close eye, since a wide slab tempts you to use more force than the surface needs.
Outdoor stains often come from plants and dirt, and the scrub usually lifts them. If a mark stays after the rinse, give it the stain-specific treatment described in the set-in section before you try anything else.
Polished, sealed, stamped, new and pool concrete
Sealed or polished concrete may have a water repellent or finish on top, and that can block the cleaner from reaching the stain. Test the hidden patch with the mildest method first, and watch whether the water soaks in or beads up on the surface.
New, stamped and pool concrete follows the same steps, with the same soak and rinse. Skip any stronger treatment on these surfaces until the test patch shows the finish holds up.
Driveways, sidewalks and paving
Driveways, sidewalks and paving usually carry dirt, grit and light organic stains, and the brush and soak handle most of them. Big slabs are where the pressure washer is the usual tool, so keep to its limits and move it in steady passes. Work one section at a time so the rinse keeps pace with the scrub.
Oil spots are often the stubborn ones, so give them a second round before you judge the result. Once the surface is dry, the difference will be clear.
Plant, mulch, tree and organic growth
Plant stains, mulch and tree debris leave dark marks that usually come up with the brush and soak in the steps above. Mulch and tree stains are harder when they have sat a long time, since the organic matter has more time to set in the concrete.
Green growth like moss or algae is the one case where bleach is listed, and it's covered in the remedies below. Plant pots often leave a ring, so repeat the soak before the scrub.
Garage floors
Garage floors pick up the most oil and tar, so start with a commercial oil and tar remover rather than a scrub alone. Follow its label on a hidden patch, then do the soak and scrub and rinse the floor well.
Kerosene is listed for heavy tar, but it's a strong step, so use it only as a last resort and rinse the spot afterward.
Concrete tables and other spills
Concrete tabletops and benches are small enough to test all over, so try the mildest method on a hidden edge before you scrub the top. Tables get food, drink and outdoor grime, and a brush, soak and mild scrub handle most of it.
Deep rings or a spot that has soaked in are the ones that need a poultice, so use the set-in treatment for those rather than heavier scrubbing. Keep the tabletop wet and rinse it well after each round.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old stains that have sat for a long time are a different job from a fresh spill. Once the steps above have failed, the next move is a stronger treatment, and each one carries more risk of damage to the surface.
The main option is a poultice: mix talc, whiting, fuller's earth, diatomaceous earth or clay with the right solvent and spread it at least 1/8 inch thick over the stain. Cover it with plastic for 24 hours and let it dry, then scrape or brush it off, and repeat as needed.
For a persistent, localized stain, a proprietary masonry cleaner made for that stain is preferred over homemade mixes, so follow its label. Be realistic: an older stain may fade a lot rather than vanish completely.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on concrete, brick & driveways?
Most home remedies recommended for concrete are unnecessary, and a stiff brush with mild detergent handles the basics. Here's where each one stands, so you know what to skip and the one or two that have a place.
Works1Skip7
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't mix bleach with ammonia
Bleach and ammonia together make a toxic, lethal gas, so never combine them. Keep the two apart and rinse a surface fully before you switch to a different product.
Don't use acid on concrete
Unbuffered muriatic (hydrochloric) acid and hydrofluoric acid cause further stains and acid burn, and they damage mortar joints. Stick with the brush, soak and scrub, even when a stain looks stubborn.
Don't sandblast the surface
Abrasive blasting can permanently remove the surface, erode mortar and increase water penetration. A stain that the steps above can't lift is never worth that damage.
Don't mix whiting with acid
In a poultice with an acid, whiting foams and destroys the acid's power. Keep whiting for a plain poultice without acid.
Troubleshooting
If the stain is still there
Pick what you're seeing:
The cleaned area is now lighter than the rest
The surrounding surface is simply dirtier. Clean the whole slab or section with mild detergent so it dries evenly.
Cleaner dried before rinsing and left a haze
Wet the area again, scrub with clean water and a stiff bristle brush, and rinse thoroughly.
Cleaning does not seem to soak in
A water repellent or unknown coating may be blocking it. Seek professional guidance before trying stronger products.
When to call a professional
Historic masonry should be cleaned under a restoration specialist, not by trial and error. Laser cleaning needs specialized contractors, and any abrasive work needs a highly qualified operator. If the stain is unknown, a testing laboratory can sample it and tell you what you're dealing with.
Questions
What substances stain concrete?
Organic matter causes many of these marks, including plants, mulch, tree debris and green growth like moss or algae. Oil, tar and fuel spills are solvent-type stains, and dirt and smoke leave a film that a scrub can usually lift. Rust and mineral marks need a product made for that stain, and anything you can't identify is best checked before you use a stronger chemical.
What's the best stain remover for concrete?
Look for a proprietary masonry cleaner made for the exact stain, and follow its label. Stain-specific products are preferred over homemade mixes, so buy one for rust or mineral marks. For a deep, localized spot, a poultice is the other option.
Can I use bleach on a concrete stain?
Only on green growth like moss or algae, and only as the very last step after everything has been rinsed out. No, bleach is only for green growth like moss or algae, and only as the very last pass after everything has been rinsed out.
Will a pressure washer damage concrete?
It can, if you use too much pressure. Stay at or below 400 psi, and never go above 800 psi, which erodes mortar and damages the face of the masonry.
Can an old stain come out completely?
Sometimes, but usually only partly on a stain that has been there a long time. Older marks need a poultice and more than one round, and some will fade rather than disappear.
Can I clean a concrete table top the same way?
Yes, use the same steps, starting with a test on a hidden edge. Deep rings or a spot that has soaked in are the ones that need a poultice, so save that for them.
Will a plant pot leave a permanent mark?
Usually not, if you act while the stain is fresh and do the soak and scrub. Older mulch and tree stains are harder, so expect a poultice and repeated rounds for those.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.