How to Remove Stains from Leather

Quick answer

Blot the spill right away with an absorbent cloth, without rubbing. On pigmented leather, wipe with a soft cloth dampened with lukewarm water and mild soap, rinse with distilled water, and let it air-dry away from heat.

Start the steps

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First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Blot the spill now with a dry, absorbent cloth.
  2. Press and lift; don't rub.
  3. For butter, oil or grease, blot off only the excess.
  4. Keep the leather from getting wet through.

Removing stains from leather is frustrating because the wrong cleaner can fade the color or strip the surface, and oil or grease left sitting can lead to stains and mold. Spot cleaning, marks, and spots on leather usually respond to careful water work while the mark is fresh, but a stain that has been left to set calls for a professional leather specialist, not harder scrubbing at home. Leather can take water only with care, so keep moisture light from the start.

Removing stains from leather couches, sofas, chairs, and furniture calls for a test first: try any product on a hidden patch, since color can fade fast. Fake leather and suede need their own gentle approach, so skip the same product on them. Once a mark has dried in or won't budge, stop scrubbing and call a professional.

Before you start

What this material can take

Use with care1

  • Water

Avoid7

  • Soaking
  • Chlorine bleach
  • Oxygen bleach
  • Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
  • Acids (vinegar, lemon)
  • Scrubbing and abrasives
  • Heat, once the stain is out

5 items

What you'll need

0 of 5 ready

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6 steps

Step by step

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  1. Step 1 of 6

    Blot the spill right away

    Act as soon as you see the spill, because fresh spills are the easiest to lift. Press the liquid up with an absorbent cloth or paper towel, switching to a clean part of it as it soaks up the spill.

    Tip. Work from the edge of the spill inward so it doesn't spread.

    Careful. Rubbing hard can damage the surface, even on a fresh spill.

  2. Step 2 of 6

    Test in a hidden spot first

    Choose a hidden spot, like the underside of a cushion or the inside of a strap, and try the method there first. Check the result once it dries before you go near the stain itself. If the leather is aniline or another absorbent type, stop after the blotting and use only the maker's recommended cleaner, after a patch test.

  3. Step 3 of 6

    Wipe with the mild soap mix

    Dampen a soft, lint-free cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap, then wipe the stain in a gentle circular motion with no heavy pressure. One mix is 1/2 mild soap and 1/2 distilled water, and another is about 5% mild soap in water.

    Tip. Wring the cloth out well so it's damp, not dripping.

    Careful. Never soak the leather or leave it wet; moisture can harden, shrink or crack it.

  4. Step 4 of 6

    Rinse off the soap residue

    Wipe the same area with a cloth dampened only with clean distilled water, and wring it out well first. This lifts the soap residue, which would otherwise be left on the leather.

  5. Step 5 of 6

    Air-dry in a shaded spot

    Dry the area with a soft cloth, then let the leather air-dry in a shaded, ventilated spot. Leave it there until it's fully dry before you wipe it again or judge the result.

  6. Step 6 of 6

    Call a pro if it stays

    If the stain is still there once dry, stop and call a professional leather cleaning service rather than trying a stronger product. Repeating the same pass at home won't change the result.

If you'd rather buy than mix

Best stain removers for leather

Use a mild soap for the wipe, distilled water for the rinse, and a leather degreaser only for grease, butter or oil.

How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on leather, and its directions fit the steps above.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

Know the stain? Use its own guide

Every stain on leather

How to tell it's working

The stain is lifting when the cloth comes away with color or dirt and the leather looks even once it's dry. If the spot looks lighter, dull or patchy after drying, stop there and let it rest before you go any further.

What changes for yours

Adjust for your leather

Couch or sofa

Work one section of the sofa at a time, starting at the stained spot, so the damp cloth never leaves a ring on the cushions beside it. Wring the cloth out even harder near seams and stitching, where extra moisture is the last thing you want.

Keep each section dry before you move to the next, and never let the whole sofa get wet. A cushion that stays damp can harden, so air-dry it fully before you put it back.

Chairs and other leather items

Chairs, recliners and other leather items use the same steps, so start with the blotting and the hidden-area test. Arms and headrests get the most handling, so check those for the leather type before you start.

Use the cloth only on the leather itself, keeping it off stitching and any non-leather trim. If the item came with a care tag or manual, follow its cleaner before anything else.

Faux, suede, and patent leather

These steps are written for real leather, so don't use them on faux, suede or patent finishes. Check the care tag first, and if the tag is missing, stop at blotting rather than guessing.

Any product for these materials should be tested in a hidden area first and used only if it's known to be safe for that material. If the spill doesn't lift with blotting, call a professional who works on that material.

Furniture stains

Pigmented furniture leather takes the mild soap wipe, while aniline or other absorbent furniture stops at blotting and gets only the maker's cleaner after a patch test. Check the seat and arm fabric for the leather type before you start, since the two need different handling.

Work from the edge of the stain inward, so the damp area doesn't spread across the leather. A furniture stain that stays after a full pass needs a professional, not a stronger product.

White leather

White leather needs no separate method, so the same steps apply, and a fresh mark may respond to the mild soap wipe on pigmented leather. Stay gentle, and don't go hunting for stronger products to lift a light mark.

Skip whitening products on white leather; stick to the gentle approach and call a professional for anything that stays.

Bags, purses, and wallets

Bags, purses and wallets follow the same steps, but use a small cloth so the damp area stays small. Check the lining and any stitching, and keep the cloth off them so the wet spot doesn't reach the seams.

Dry the piece the same way as the drying step, shaded and ventilated, and let it dry fully before using it. Test any product on a hidden part, such as the inside flap, before using it on the front.

Shoes and boots

Shoes and boots follow the same steps, with the damp cloth kept to the upper and away from the sole edge. Keep the stitching and seams as dry as you can.

Stuff the shoe with plain paper so it keeps its shape while it air-dries in a shaded spot. Leave it until it is completely dry before you wear it or wipe it again.

Denim, alcohol, and other special stains

Denim transfer, drinks, hand sanitizer and other special marks don't have their own method, so blot first and then use the gentle steps only on pigmented leather. Skip alcohol, acetone and other solvents on any spot, since they can discolor or stain the leather.

For butter, oil or grease, blot off the excess with a clean dry cloth and leave it alone, or use a leather degreaser. If a special stain doesn't lift with those steps, call a professional rather than trying anything stronger.

Old, dried or set-in stains

Contaminants should come off at once, because grease, oil or alcohol left on leather can cause premature wear, mold or stains. If you find an old mark, don't try to rescue it with stronger liquids; the gentle steps above are as far as home care goes.

A stain that has dried still has a chance if you start with the same gentle wipe, but expect it to take more than one pass. Realistically, an old stain may lighten rather than vanish, so judge the result after each dry.

If the leather was dried with heat, let it rest and air-dry again, since heat makes the surface more likely to show a mark. If the stain is still there after several gentle passes, stop, because a professional leather cleaning service is the realistic next step.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on leather?

Plenty of home remedies work on fabric or hard floors, but leather is more sensitive. Most of the common ones can damage leather, so stick to gentle cleaning.

Skip1Avoid7

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
SaltSkipSkip salt on leather; it isn't a tested leather treatment.
Steam cleanerAvoidLeather can't take steam or heat, so this is ruled out even for deep cleaning.
White vinegarAvoidAvoid vinegar on leather; it's an acid, and acids can fade leather color.
Baking sodaAvoidAbrasive cleaners are off limits on leather, so the scrubbing baking soda needs is out.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)AvoidLeather can't take bleach of any kind, so peroxide is out too.
Dish soapAvoidDish soap is a detergent, and detergent soaps are off limits on leather. The mild soap mix in the wipe step is the safe choice.
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)AvoidKeep bleach off leather; the label for oxygen bleach rules out leather, and a soft cloth with lukewarm water and mild soap cleans it.
Rubbing alcoholAvoidAlcohol can dry out and damage leather, so leave it off. Stick with a mild leather cleaner and a barely damp cloth.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't use alcohol, bleach, or solvents

Alcohol, chlorine bleach, thinner, benzene and gasoline can discolor or stain leather. Keep them off the spot even when a stain looks stubborn.

Don't use saddle soap or polish

Saddle soap, furniture polish, oils, varnish, abrasive cleaners and detergent soaps don't belong on leather furniture. They can damage the surface and finish.

Don't dry leather with heat

Keep leather away from any heat source, including a hair dryer, radiator, direct sunlight, steam or an iron. Let it air-dry in a shaded, ventilated spot instead.

Don't use acid or alkaline cleaners

Acid and alkaline products, including vinegar, can fade the color or strip the surface. Stick to the mild soap mix on pigmented leather.

Don't try unknown products

Unfamiliar products can damage the finish, so only use a cleaner you know is safe for leather. If you're unsure about a product, test it in a hidden area first or skip it.

Troubleshooting

If the stain is still there

Pick what you're seeing:

The cleaned area dried darker than the rest

The cloth was probably too wet. Let the leather air-dry fully in a shaded spot before judging it, and use a better-wrung cloth over the whole panel next time so it dries evenly.

A grease spot is still visible after blotting

Leave it alone for a while rather than scrubbing, or use a leather degreaser. If the mark persists, hand it to a professional leather cleaning service.

The surface feels sticky or dull after cleaning

Soap residue was left behind. Wipe again with a cloth dampened only with distilled water and wrung out well, then dry with a soft cloth.

You are not sure whether the leather is aniline

Treat it as absorbent until you know otherwise. Blot only, look up the maker's care guide for your leather line, and patch test their recommended cleaner.

When to call a professional

For stains that persist after the steps above, call a professional leather cleaning service. For unusual stains, color damage, abrasions or small rips, a professional leather repair business is the right call. Don't keep escalating at home, since stronger products put the finish at risk.

Questions

Does leather stain, and can you prevent it?

Yes, leather can stain, especially when grease, oil or alcohol is left sitting on it. The best protection is to wipe up spills right away with an absorbent cloth, since fast blotting keeps a mark from setting.

How do I clean the whole leather couch?

Stains need their own gentle method first, since the wrong cleaner can fade the color or strip the surface. The full deep clean has its own guide, on how to clean a leather couch.

Can you steam clean leather furniture?

No. Leather can't take steam, heat or ironing, so steam cleaning is ruled out even for furniture. A deep clean on leather means the gentle steps above, with a professional if the stain stays.

Can I use alcohol or hand sanitizer to get a mark off leather?

No. Alcohol and solvents can discolor or stain leather, so skip them on the spot, hand sanitizer included. Blot the mark first, then follow the gentle steps on pigmented leather or call a professional.

How do I remove stains from leather?

Blot the spill right away, then test the method on a hidden spot. Wipe the stain with a mild soap mix on a soft, lint-free cloth, rinse with distilled water, and let the leather air-dry in a shaded spot. If the mark is still there once dry, call a professional leather cleaning service.

Will a spot or mark come out with a damp cloth?

Often yes on pigmented leather, especially if the mark is fresh. Blot it first, then use the mild soap wipe, the distilled-water wipe and an air-dry, and stop if the mark is still there.

Can I use bleach to whiten white leather?

No. Leather can't take bleach of any kind, so white leather is cleaned with the same gentle steps. A stain that remains after those steps should go to a professional.

Odor guides

Still smells?

Related

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. Leather Naturally
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  3. American Leather
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  7. Kia owner's manual
  8. University of Georgia Extension