How to Remove Highlighter Stains

Quick answer

Treat the stain before it goes in the wash, since laundering can set the ink. Sponge it with rubbing alcohol face down on paper towels, pretreat with detergent, then wash and check before the dryer.

Start the steps

Prefer a ready-made fix? Our top picks ↓

First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Treat it before washing, because laundering can set the ink.
  2. Blot with a clean towel, and don't rub.
  3. Test any remover on a hidden spot first.
  4. Keep the garment out of the dryer until the stain is gone.

Highlighter on clothes is a felt-tip dye, and dye soaks into cloth quickly, so the first trip through the washer can lock it in. Fresh ink has the best chance, and a few rounds of alcohol and detergent often lift the color. A mark that was dried in the machine may only fade, and some felt-tip inks may never come out.

Highlighter stains on white shirts respond well to a prewash stain remover spray applied directly to the mark. Colored garments and denim need a quick test on a hidden seam first. Silk, wool, and dry-clean-only pieces are better left to a cleaner than a home attempt.

6 items

What you'll need

0 of 6 ready

Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

7 steps

How to get highlighter out of clothes

0 of 7 done
  1. Step 1 of 7

    Lay the garment face down

    Place the stained area face down on a stack of clean paper towels, so the ink soaks into the paper instead of through to the other side of the fabric. Keep the rest of the garment away from the stain so the ink doesn't spread onto clean fabric.

    Tip. Start with a fresh stack of towels, since you'll change them often.

    Careful. Don't launder the garment before treating the stain, because washing may set the ink.

  2. Step 2 of 7

    Sponge with rubbing alcohol

    Dampen a sponge or cloth with rubbing alcohol and sponge the stain continually until no more color bleeds onto the paper towels. Acetone or a pre-wash soil-and-stain remover can also be used in this step.

    Tip. Work from the outside edge toward the center so the stain doesn't spread.

    Careful. Don't use acetone on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic.

  3. Step 3 of 7

    Let it dry, then repeat

    Let the spot dry completely, then look at it in good light. If the stain is still there, go back to the alcohol sponging and repeat as needed.

  4. Step 4 of 7

    Leave detergent on the stain

    Apply liquid laundry detergent to any stain that remains, and let it stand. If it's still visible, leave it overnight before going on.

    Tip. Use enough detergent to saturate the stain.

  5. Step 5 of 7

    Pretreat and launder

    Work a pre-wash spot-and-stain remover into the stain and let it sit, then launder the garment. Use the hottest water the care label allows, and warm water if the label is missing.

  6. Step 6 of 7

    Wash again with a safe bleach

    If stain remains after washing, wash the garment again with a bleach that's safe for the fabric. For colored items, add 1 cup of non-chlorine bleach to the wash.

  7. Step 7 of 7

    Check before the dryer

    Look at the stain in good light before the garment goes anywhere near heat. If any color is left, repeat the treatment from the alcohol sponging onward.

    Tip. Hold the fabric up to a window or bright light to check the spot.

    Careful. Heat sets the stain and it may become impossible to remove, so keep the garment out of the dryer until it's clear.

If you'd rather buy than mix

Best products for highlighter

Pick a liquid laundry detergent or a pre-wash spot-and-stain remover, not bar soap, and check the label for fabric use.

How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on this fabric, and its directions fit the steps above.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

Pick what it is on

Highlighter on every material

How to tell it's working

When the paper towel under the stain stops picking up color, the bleeding has stopped and the sponging is working. Once the stain stops transferring and the spot is clear in good light, you can move on to drying.

What changes for yours

Adjust for your fabric

Whites and white shirts

White cotton and other white fabric that the label allows in hot water can take the hottest setting in the laundering step. The treatment is the same, so keep the alcohol and detergent steps in order.

Chlorine bleach, if you use it, goes last, after everything is rinsed out and all alcohol is gone. The bleach options for stubborn stains are covered under old and dried stains below.

Colors and denim

Pink, blue, green, orange and black highlighter follow the same steps as yellow, since all felt-tip highlighter is dye. Check the care label before choosing a water temperature, and use warm water if it's missing, because hot water needs care on colored fabric.

Chlorine bleach is only for colorfast fabric, so on colors stick to the non-chlorine option. Denim and colored cotton follow the same order as above.

Silk, wool and delicates

Silk and wool need a lighter touch than the steps above, so skip the alcohol and acetone and blot only with cool water. Don't rub or brush either fiber, because rubbing damages silk and agitation makes wool felt and shrink.

Keep chlorine bleach, oxygen bleach and enzyme detergent away from both, and don't use chlorine on spandex either. If you can't tell what the fiber is, don't guess: blot with cool water and take the garment to a dry cleaner.

Dry-clean-only items

Dry-clean-only items can't go through the home steps, so skip the sponging, the laundering and any water-based cleaner. Oxygen bleach is off the table as well.

Take the garment to a dry cleaner and tell them it's a highlighter stain, so they can choose a solvent that suits the fabric. Ask them to check the stain before they clean the whole piece.

Old, dried or set-in stains

An old highlighter stain is the hardest case, and some felt-tip inks may be impossible to remove. Start with liquid detergent left on the stain overnight, then the pre-wash remover and a full wash. That routine is the last resort for stubborn ink, so expect partial results.

Dried ink can be treated again the same way: sponge it with rubbing alcohol, blot, and let it dry before you judge the result. Work from the outside edge inward so the ink doesn't spread into clean fabric. Don't scrub the dried spot hard, since the fibers can wear.

Heat from a dryer sets the stain, so a garment that has been through one is harder to clear and may not come out at all. On white or colorfast fabric only, a commercial color remover is an option, used as its package directions say. A diluted all-fabric color-safe bleach works on dye stains, and on whites the stain should come out within 15 minutes if the bleach is fresh, since longer may weaken the fabric.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on highlighter?

Most home remedies don't belong on highlighter, because rubbing alcohol and detergent already handle the job on fabric. Rubbing alcohol is the one solvent from this list that appears in the steps. The rest are either for other stains or could damage the fabric.

Works1Skip5

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
Rubbing alcoholGet it on Amazon WorksIt's the solvent in the sponging step, using 70% isopropyl alcohol or 90% denatured alcohol with no added color or fragrance. Pretest it, and keep it away from acetate, silk and leather.
White vinegarSkipSkip vinegar on fabric; it can change the color of some dyes, and rubbing alcohol does the job.
Baking sodaSkipSkip baking soda; it's a surface cleanser, not a fabric treatment.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)SkipSkip peroxide; it can damage colored fabric that isn't colorfast.
Dish soapSkipLaundry detergent does this job, so skip the dish soap. Keep it off silk and velvet in any case.
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)SkipSkip oxygen bleach on highlighter; rubbing alcohol and detergent do the work. Even on colorfast fabric it needs a test first, and it's off-limits on silk, wool and dry-clean-only items.

Chemical safety

Never mix these

Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.

Chlorine bleach + Rubbing alcohol

Bleach and rubbing alcohol can form chloroform, which causes dizziness, nausea and loss of consciousness.

If they mix by accident: Stop and add nothing else; leave the area for fresh air, open windows and keep children and pets away; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222, or 911 if anyone has trouble breathing.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't mix chlorine bleach with other removers

Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia, vinegar or alcohol. If you need more than one remover, rinse the garment thoroughly between them.

Don't rub a fresh stain with bar soap

Bar soap sets many stains, so use liquid detergent for the soak and pretreat. Blot the spot instead of rubbing it, since rubbing can spread the ink.

Don't use undiluted bleach

Full-strength bleach can weaken fabric so it tears sooner. Over-soaking can also cause yellow stains that can't be removed, so dilute it first and keep the soak to the recommended amount.

Troubleshooting

If the stain is still there

Pick what you're seeing:

The ink keeps spreading into a halo

Move the stain to a fresh section of paper towel more often, and use less solvent at a time. Work from the outside of the halo toward the center.

A faint yellow tint remains after washing

Don't dry the item. Apply detergent and let it stand overnight, then pretreat with a pre-wash remover and launder again.

The garment went through the dryer with the stain

Try the full solvent and detergent sequence anyway. Some heat-set felt-tip inks can't be removed, so be prepared for a partial result.

When to call a professional

If the stain is still visible after the second wash, or the garment is dry-clean only, a dry cleaner can try a solvent-based treatment. Tell them the stain is highlighter and that it has already been treated, so they know what they're working with.

Questions

Does highlighter come out of clothes?

Often yes, when you treat the stain while it's fresh, though some felt-tip inks can't be removed. The earlier you start the steps above, the better your odds.

Is highlighter ink treated like marker ink?

Yes. Felt-tip highlighters are felt-tip markers, and the ink is a dye that spreads into fabric fast. That's why the steps start with alcohol on paper towels rather than a wash.

Do yellow highlighter stains come out more easily?

Yellow follows the same steps as pink, blue or green. Check the colors section above for the water and bleach rules that apply to colored fabric.

Can I use bleach on a highlighter stain on white clothes?

Only on white or colorfast fabric, and only after everything else is rinsed out. The bleach options are covered under old and dried stains.

Can a highlighter stain come out after it's been through the dryer?

It's harder, but not always lost. Start with the sponging step again, then work through the rest of the steps and see how much lifts.

Is hot water safe for highlighter on jeans?

Only if the care label allows hot water, since colored and synthetic items often can't take it. If the label is missing or unclear, use warm water instead. Warm water is the safer choice for the laundering step on jeans and other colored cotton.

Can I use vinegar or club soda on highlighter?

Neither is needed, since rubbing alcohol and detergent do the job. No. Club soda and salt are wine remedies, and vinegar isn't needed for fabric.

Related

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. University of Georgia Extension
  2. American Cleaning Institute
  3. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension
  4. Iowa State University Extension
  5. Cornell Cooperative Extension
  6. New Mexico State University Extension
  7. Carpet and Rug Institute
  8. Crayola