First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Erase loose marks first with a soft art gum eraser.
- Blot the mark instead of rubbing it.
- Test any solvent on a hidden spot first.
- Use solvents only in a well-ventilated room, away from flames or sparks.
Pencil on fabric and clothes is a graphite problem, since the lead particles sit in the fibers and don't dissolve in water, so plain washing alone won't clear them. Charcoal on clothes and fabric is handled the same way, because it's also a particle mark rather than something a wash can dissolve. Set-in marks take repeated passes, and whether the item is white, colored, silk or dry-clean-only decides which route is safe.
Brush off the loose pencil graphite with a dry brush before any liquid touches it, since wet rubbing turns it into a smear. For charcoal on clothes, a prewash stain remover worked in before the wash does most of the lifting. Chalk marker behaves differently, so test a hidden seam first.
8 items
What you'll need
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- Soft art gum eraserLifts the loose particles before any liquid touches the fabric. (opens Amazon)
- Solvent-based spot cleaner (dry-cleaning solvent)Breaks up the graphite or charcoal that water can't lift. (opens Amazon)
- Mineral oil, coconut oil, or a dry spotterLubricates a mark that is still visible after the solvent. (opens Amazon)
- Absorbent padHolds the dry spotter against the stain during the 30-minute soak.
- Mild liquid hand dishwashing detergentMakes the final detergent solution for the last treatment. (opens Amazon)
- Ammonia (opens Amazon)
- Clean white cloths or paper towelsBlot the stain and show you when the particles have stopped coming off. (opens Amazon)
- Cellulose sponge (opens Amazon)
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6 steps
How to get pencil out of clothes
Step 1 of 6
Erase the loose marks first
Work a soft art gum eraser over the mark in light, short strokes, so the loose graphite or charcoal lifts off the fibers before any liquid touches it. Stop when the eraser stops picking up dust, and wipe the crumbs away with a clean dry cloth.
Tip. Slip a clean white cloth under the fabric so particles don't press into the back.
Careful. Don't rub hard or brush the mark, since that pushes the particles deeper into the weave.
Step 2 of 6
Sponge with a solvent spot cleaner
Dab a solvent-based spot cleaner, which is a dry-cleaning solvent, onto the stain with a clean sponge or cloth. If you use a pre-wash soil and stain remover instead, apply it the same way and let it stand before the next step.
Tip. Work from the back of the fabric when you can, so the mark doesn't spread.
Careful. Pretest the solvent on a hidden seam first, and use it only in a well-ventilated room away from flames, pilot lights or sparks.
Step 3 of 6
Lubricate what's left
If the mark is still visible, lubricate the stain with mineral oil, or with a dry spotter made from 1 part coconut or mineral oil to 8 parts dry-cleaning solvent. Work it in, then flush the area with dry-cleaning solvent.
Tip. Keep the area damp with the dry spotter so the lubricant doesn't dry out.
Step 4 of 630 minutes
Pad the stain for 30 minutes
Soak an absorbent pad with dry spotter and lay it over the stain. Leave it in place for the full 30 minutes, then flush the area with dry-cleaning solvent.
Tip. Check that the pad stays damp, and add a few drops of dry spotter if it dries out.
Step 5 of 6
Finish with the ammonia detergent
Mix 1 teaspoon mild liquid hand dishwashing detergent into 1 cup warm water, then add a few drops of ammonia. Apply a few drops of this solution to the stain, tamp it gently with a brush or spoon, and flush with water.
Careful. Tamp only on sturdy fabric, and skip the tamping and this whole step on silk, wool, velvet and other delicates.
Step 6 of 6
Launder, then check the mark
Wash the item in the hottest water its care label allows, using your usual detergent, and check the label first if it's colored. Once it's out of the washer, check the stain, and if any mark remains, go back to the solvent spot cleaner and repeat.
Tip. Look at the stain in daylight or a bright light, since faint marks are easy to miss.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for pencil
Look for a solvent-based spot cleaner labeled as dry-cleaning solvent, or a pre-wash soil and stain remover, and check that it suits the fabric. A dry spotter works for the lubrication step too.
Shout Triple-Acting Laundry Stain Remover
Puracy Laundry Stain Remover
Clorox 2 Laundry Stain Remover and Color Booster Powder, 49.2 Ounces
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on this fabric, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light before using any heat. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
See what to do for what you're seeing →If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →Pick what it is on
Pencil on every material
Walls1
Kitchen & bath4
Carpet & rugs1
Metal & glass1
Floors1
Skin & hair1
No match. Try the main search for anything else.
How to tell it's working
The mark should look lighter and grayer after the eraser and solvent, and the cloth should stop picking up particles. It's ready for the dryer only when no shadow shows under bright light and the spot looks the same when it's damp.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your fabric
Whites and white shirts
Whites take hot water well, so once the solvent and detergent steps are done, launder them in the hottest water the care label allows. Bleach has no place on white fabric in this process, and the only bleach step is for colored chalk.
A pencil mark on a white collar is often easier to see than to remove, so check it under bright light after each round.
Colors and denim
Colored fabric can take the pencil steps, but test a hidden seam first, because solvents and detergents can change the dye. For colored chalk, blot the stain on paper towels with rubbing alcohol, then wash in hot water with laundry detergent and an oxygen-type color-safe bleach, and rinse in warm water. Check the care label before using hot water, since colored items vary.
Repeat the chalk method until the stain is gone, and never follow it with chlorine bleach. Air dry the item, since heat can set a stain that's still there.
Silk, wool and delicates
Silk, wool, mohair, velvet and other delicates can't take hot water, chlorine or rubbing, so stop after the solvent steps and skip the detergent and ammonia step entirely. Wool felts and shrinks with agitation, and rubbing damages silk, so blot the solvent gently instead.
Test the solvent on a hidden seam before you use any of it, since delicates vary. If a shadow stays after one careful pass, take the item to a professional dry cleaner rather than trying a harder product.
Dry-clean-only items
Water-based steps don't belong on dry-clean-only fabric, so skip the detergent and ammonia step completely. Scrape the mark gently with a dull knife or metal spoon, and blot with a paper towel to lift as much as you can. Be careful not to damage the fabric while you scrape.
Then take the item to a professional dry cleaner and point to the exact mark, so they can choose the right solvent. Don't try a home remedy on top of the scrape.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old pencil or charcoal that has been through a wash cycle is partly bonded to the fibers, so it needs more passes than a fresh mark. Start again at the solvent spot cleaner and go through the lubrication and the 30-minute pad before the detergent step. Don't skip the eraser just because the mark looks faint.
After the dryer, the heat has locked in whatever is left, so expect the mark to fade a shade at a time rather than vanish. For white clothes that have been washed, the same steps apply, and hot water is fine if the care label allows it.
If the mark still shows after two full rounds, a faint shadow may be all that's realistic, and a professional dry cleaner is the next step for the fabric. Chalk marker on boards and windows is a different surface that this section doesn't cover, so look for a method written for that surface.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on pencil?
Pencil and charcoal particles don't dissolve in water, so solvent, oil and a little detergent do the lifting. If you have no eraser and can't wash the item, use the scrape-and-blot method for unwashable fabric in the dry-clean section below.
Works1Skip5
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use gasoline, lighter fluid or carbon tetrachloride
These are sometimes suggested as solvents, but they aren't safe for fabric and they add a fire risk. Stick with the dry-cleaning solvent or pre-wash remover from the solvent step.
Don't follow the ammonia with chlorine bleach
Never follow the ammonia detergent with chlorine bleach, so leave bleach out of this process entirely. Rinse thoroughly between removers so no product is left in the fabric.
Don't rub bar soap into the mark
Bar soap can set many stains and make them much harder to remove. Stick to the liquid detergent in the ammonia step, and never rub soap into a fresh mark.
Don't put it in the dryer yet
Heat sets a stain that's still in the fabric, and it can become impossible to remove. Keep the item out of the dryer until the mark is completely gone, and let it air dry while you check.
Troubleshooting
If the stain is still there
Pick what you're seeing:
A gray haze remains after washing
Let the item dry in the air, then repeat the eraser, solvent and pre-wash treatment and launder again.
The eraser smears the mark wider
Switch to a clean section of the eraser and use lighter, single-direction strokes, brushing crumbs away often.
The spot cleaner leaves a ring
Blot from the outer edge toward the center and feather the solvent out past the stain so it dries evenly.
The fabric is dry-clean only
Erase gently, then take it to a dry cleaner and tell them the stain is pencil or graphite.
When to call a professional
If the mark survives two full rounds, or the item is dry-clean only, take it to a professional dry cleaner rather than trying a harder product. Tell them what the stain is, so they can choose the right solvent.
Questions
Does pencil come out of clothes?
Yes, most pencil comes out of clothes if you act before the item is dried or washed. Erase the loose particles, then use a solvent spot cleaner, because water alone won't lift graphite. Keep the item out of the dryer until the mark is gone.
Do chalk, charcoal, and graphite stains wash out?
Yes, usually. Graphite is the lead in pencil, and graphite and charcoal lift with an eraser and solvent. Colored chalk responds to the alcohol-and-wash method in the colors section.
How do I get charcoal out of clothes?
Use the same steps as pencil, starting with the eraser and then a solvent spot cleaner. Charcoal doesn't have its own method, but smoke and soot are similar particle stains, and they follow the same solvent-first route.
Can I get pencil off canvas?
Canvas and painted art need different care than fabric, so skip the solvent and detergent on it. Lift loose marks lightly with an art gum eraser. For valuable work, see an art conservator.
Do I need a special pencil stain remover?
No, you don't need a special product, but a solvent-based spot cleaner labeled as dry-cleaning solvent is the closest match. A pre-wash soil and stain remover is an acceptable first choice too.
Will colored chalk come out of clothes?
Usually, yes, if you test first and follow the colored chalk method in the colors section. Work on paper towels, and keep the item out of the dryer until the stain is gone.
What about tailor's chalk?
Tailor's chalk wasn't one of the products the colored chalk method was written for, so test it on a hidden seam first. If it doesn't lift, switch to the solvent steps above, skipping the ammonia step on delicates.
How do I remove chalk marker from clothes?
Chalk marker is a different product, so the chalk approach doesn't carry over. Test a hidden spot with the solvent spot cleaner, and if it doesn't lift, take the item to a professional dry cleaner.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.