First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Let the fluid dry, then scratch off as much as you can with a fingernail or a coin edge.
- Tell the formulas apart: water-based fluid needs only soap and water, while petroleum-based fluid needs a solvent.
- Blot, don't rub, and keep a clean cloth under the spot.
Correction fluid is a white covering paint, so it sits on top of the fabric until you lift it. Whether the rest comes out depends on the formula: water-based fluid rinses out with soap and water, while petroleum-based fluid needs a solvent first. Dried or thick fluid is harder than a fresh spot, and on dry-clean-only garments the cleaner needs to know what kind of fluid it was.
If the fluid is still wet, dab it with a cloth and water and don't rub it into the weave. On black or dark clothes, test a hidden seam first, because some removers can lighten the dye. For dried White-Out on clothes, a prewash stain remover spray or stick gives it a softer start before the wash.
7 items
What you'll need
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- Liquid laundry detergentSoaks the spot before the wash. (opens Amazon)
- Absorbent padGoes under the stain while you dab.
- Mineral spirits or a citrus-based cleanerDissolves petroleum-based fluid. Test it first. (opens Amazon)
- Non-oily, acetone-based nail polish removerClears leftover residue, but only on fabric without acetate. (opens Amazon)
- Rubbing alcoholFlushes the spot after the acetone. Use 70% isopropyl or 90% denatured alcohol with no added color or fragrance. (opens Amazon)
- Soft brush or spoonTamps the acetone into the residue. (opens Amazon)
- Clean cloths or paper towelsBlot the spot as you go. (opens Amazon)
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7 steps
How to get correction fluid out of clothes
Step 1 of 7
Let the fluid dry and scratch it off
Leave the correction fluid to dry completely, then scratch off as much as you can with a fingernail or the edge of a coin. Lifting the dried layer first means less solvent has to go on the fabric.
Tip. Work from the edges toward the middle so you don't smear it.
Step 2 of 7
Check the label and test your solvent
Read the care label and note the fiber if it's listed, since the solvent and wash rules depend on it. Test any solvent on a hidden spot such as an inside seam, and let it dry before you judge the result. If there's no care tag or you can't tell the fiber, skip the solvent and start with the detergent soak on the hidden seam.
Careful. Mineral spirits can take out color and ruin varnish, so the test is not optional.
Step 3 of 7
Dab petroleum-based fluid with solvent
If the fluid is water-based, skip this step and move on to the detergent soak. For petroleum-based formulas, including the 2-in-1 fluid and the pen-style fluid, slide an absorbent pad under the stain, then dab the residue with mineral spirits or a citrus-based cleaner, following that cleaner's label directions. Blot often and use only a little at a time.
Tip. Move the pad to a clean section as it picks up fluid.
Step 4 of 7
Lift leftover residue with acetone
If residue remains and the fabric has no acetate, sponge the spot with acetone, a non-oily, acetone-based nail polish remover. Tamp it with a brush or the back of a spoon, then flush the area with rubbing alcohol.
Careful. Acetone and lacquer thinner turn triacetate to froth immediately, so never use acetone on acetate.
Step 5 of 75 minutes
Soak the spot in liquid detergent
Pour liquid laundry detergent over the spot until it's fully covered, and leave it for 5 minutes. Don't rinse the detergent off before the wash.
Tip. Press it into the fibers with your fingertips, without scrubbing.
Step 6 of 7
Wash at the hottest safe temperature
Put the item in the washer without rinsing the detergent off, and run the usual cycle. Use the hottest temperature the care label allows, and drop to warm or cold for colors, synthetics and delicates.
Step 7 of 7
Check the spot before any heat
Look at the spot in good light before the item goes anywhere near heat. If any stain remains, repeat the earlier steps and check again.
Careful. Drying sets the stain, so keep the item out of the dryer while any stain remains.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for correction fluid
Choose a liquid laundry detergent for the soak, and a mineral spirits or citrus-based cleaner only for petroleum-based fluid.
Clorox 2 Laundry Stain Remover and Color Booster Powder, 49.2 Ounces
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on this fabric, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light before using any heat. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
See what to do for what you're seeing →If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
The stain is gone when the spot looks the same color as the fabric around it in good light, after the detergent wash. If it still looks white or has a film, it isn't finished, so repeat the steps.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your fabric
Whites and white shirts
White fabric can take the hottest water the label allows, so the wash step runs at full temperature. If a faint mark remains after the wash, diluted chlorine bleach can go last, once everything has been rinsed out.
Never use bleach at full strength, since undiluted bleach weakens fabric and can tear it sooner.
Polyester and synthetic clothes
Synthetics don't take hot water, so run the wash warm or cool instead of at the hottest setting. Keep solvent use light and do the hidden-seam test first, because synthetic blends react to solvent differently.
If the item is a blend, follow the most delicate fiber in it.
Dark clothes and denim
Dark and colored fabric can lose dye under solvent, so test the mineral spirits or citrus-based cleaner on a hidden seam and watch for any color change before going further. Use warm water in the wash unless the care label clearly allows hot.
If the color changes at all, stop using the solvent and go straight to the detergent soak.
Silk, wool and delicates
Protein fibers like silk and wool can't take hot water, chlorine bleach or enzyme detergent, so wash in cool water with a detergent that has no enzymes. Don't rub or brush the spot, because rubbing damages silk and agitation makes wool felt and shrink.
Heirloom textiles should never go in the washing machine at all, so take them to a professional instead.
Dry-clean-only items
Dry-clean-only garments shouldn't go through the washer, so stop after the first scratch-off and take the item to a dry cleaner. Tell them exactly what the stain is and whether it's water-based or petroleum-based.
If the fluid landed on a rug or carpet, the Carpet & Rugs guide covers that surface.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old correction fluid that has sat in the fabric for a long time is harder to remove, and some of it won't come out at all. Start with the same scratch-off and solvent steps, but expect to repeat them.
For dried or thick fluid, go through the acetone and rubbing alcohol flush a second time, if the fabric has no acetate, and then repeat the detergent soak. Let each round dry before you judge the spot.
If the item has already been through the dryer, the stain has likely set, so the result will be partial rather than clean. If it's still visible after a full round, that's the realistic limit for this stain, not a sign you missed a step.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on correction fluid?
Most household fixes don't suit correction fluid, so the steps lean on a solvent and detergent instead. Rubbing alcohol is the only household remedy that fits correction fluid, and the rest are poor matches.
Works1Skip5
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't reach for bar soap
A bar of soap rubbed into a fresh stain can set it, which makes the rest of the steps harder. Keep bar soap out of the process and use liquid laundry detergent for the soak.
Don't use gasoline or lighter fluid
Gasoline, lighter fluid and carbon tetrachloride are not spot removers, and they add risk without adding results. Stick to the solvents named in the steps.
Don't work near flames or sparks
Some correction fluids are highly flammable, and the solvents in these steps are flammable too. Work in a well-ventilated room with no open flame or sparks nearby.
Troubleshooting
If the stain is still there
Pick what you're seeing:
Soap and water did nothing
The fluid is probably a petroleum-based formula. Let the fabric dry, then use the mineral spirits step with an absorbent pad underneath.
A white haze remains after mineral spirits
If the fabric has no acetate, follow with acetone and a rubbing alcohol flush. Then pretreat with detergent and wash.
The garment is dry-clean only
Skip home solvents and take it in. Tell the cleaner whether it is a water-based paint or a solvent-based paint, based on the formula.
The fabric color lightened during treatment
Stop using the solvent at once and rinse the area. Take the item to a professional cleaner rather than continuing.
When to call a professional
If a stain survives the full routine on a garment that can't be washed, take it to a dry cleaner. Tell them what the stain is and whether it's water-based or petroleum-based if you know.
Questions
Will White-Out come out of clothes, and what removes it?
Yes, in most cases. Water-based fluid comes out with soap and water, while petroleum-based fluid needs a solvent like mineral spirits or a citrus-based cleaner, followed by a detergent wash.
Can you get White-Out off black clothes?
Usually yes. Test the solvent on a hidden seam first, then use the same steps with warm water in the wash.
Will correction tape come out of clothes?
There isn't a proven method for removing correction tape from fabric, so don't try the fluid steps on it. A dry cleaner is the safest next stop for a stubborn mark.
Does White-Out come out of white or polyester clothes?
Yes, the steps work on both, but polyester needs warm or cool water rather than the hottest setting. Keep the solvent light and test it first, since synthetic blends respond differently.
Does the wash temperature change what works?
Yes. Whites can take the hottest water the label allows, colors need care, and synthetics, wool and silk need warm, cool or no hot water at all.
Can you get dried White-Out out of clothes?
Often partly, and it's harder than fresh fluid. Scratch off what you can, then go through a second round of the solvent and rubbing alcohol flush.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.