How to Remove Ink Stains

MediumVaries by ink type; overnight for set-in ink7 stepsChecked against 7 sourcesReviewed · Updated Nov 6, 2026
Quick answer

Work rubbing alcohol through the stain from the back, onto a stack of white paper towels that you swap out as they pick up ink. Felt-tip and non-red stamp-pad ink respond to alcohol or acetone, while India ink needs plain water pushed through first.

Start the steps

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First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Blot the wet ink with a clean, dry white cloth or paper towel, pressing gently.
  2. Work fast. Fresh ink lifts far more easily than ink that has sat and dried.
  3. Lay a stack of white paper towels under the stain before you touch it.

Ink is a dye or pigment carried in a liquid or paste, and the pen type decides what will lift it from clothes. Felt-tip and India ink respond to solvent, red and stamp-pad inks are handled as dyes, and ballpoint has its own glycerine method. Some inks may never come out completely, and a wash on a stain that hasn't lifted can set it further.

Before you reach for rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer, test either one on a hidden seam, since some fabrics react badly. Dab from the back of the mark so the ink moves out rather than deeper into the fibers. If a pen has exploded in the dryer, check the drum for ink before you run it again.

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7 steps

How to get ink out of clothes

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  1. Step 1 of 7

    Test a hidden seam first

    Dab rubbing alcohol or cleaning fluid onto a hidden seam and watch the cloth beneath for any color transfer. Alcohol can remove some dyes, so if color moves or changes, stop and take the garment to a professional instead.

    Careful. Alcohol is not safe on silk, leather, acetate, triacetate, modacrylic or acrylic, so skip these steps on those fabrics.

  2. Step 2 of 7

    Work the stain from the back

    If the ink isn't India ink, sponge the fabric around the stain with rubbing alcohol or cleaning fluid first, so the ink has less room to spread. Then lay the stain facedown on clean white paper towels and apply the alcohol or cleaning fluid to the back of the stain.

    Replace the towels often, because they pick up ink as the stain lifts. For India ink, skip this entire step and flush with water first, as step 4 explains.

    Tip. Stretch the fabric taut over the mouth of a jar or glass and drip the alcohol through the stain, so the ink drops into the container instead.

  3. Step 3 of 7

    Sponge felt-tip and stamp-pad ink

    This step is only for felt-tip and non-red stamp-pad ink. Sponge continually with rubbing alcohol, pure acetone or a prewash stain remover until the bleeding stops, then let the spot dry. Repeat if the ink is still coming through.

    Careful. Acetone dissolves acetate, triacetate and modacrylic, so skip it on those fabrics.

  4. Step 4 of 7

    Flush India ink with water

    This step is only for India ink, which needs water before anything else. Push plain water through the stain from the back until no more loose ink comes out, then let it dry. Wash the dried spot repeatedly with a light-duty liquid detergent.

    Careful. India ink may become impossible to remove once it dries, so treat it right away.

  5. Step 5 of 7

    Rinse, pretreat and launder

    Rinse the garment thoroughly so no alcohol, acetone or detergent is left in the fabric. Apply a prewash stain remover to whatever ink is left, then launder the garment as the care label allows.

  6. Step 6 of 7

    Check the spot before drying

    Hold the fabric up in good light and look for any ink that's left before it goes anywhere near the dryer. If ink remains, repeat the treatment that matches your ink type, then check again. Some inks won't come out completely, so stop when the fabric stops improving.

  7. Step 7 of 7

    Bleach only white cotton or linen

    If the fabric is white cotton or linen and the care label allows bleach, add chlorine bleach in the final wash. Dilute it first, using 1/2 cup bleach in 2 cups water, and add it 5 to 6 minutes into the wash cycle. Skip it if you have already used a commercial stain cleaner or a long soak on the spot, and never add it while any ammonia, vinegar or alcohol is still in the fabric.

    Careful. Never use chlorine bleach on wool, silk, mohair, leather or spandex.

If you'd rather buy than mix

Best products for ink

Pick a prewash stain remover for the final pass, and a light-duty liquid detergent for India ink.

How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on this fabric, and its directions fit the steps above.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

Pick what it is on

Ink on every material

How to tell it's working

Good progress looks like ink lifting onto the paper towels and the spot looking lighter after each pass. Stop repeating when the towels stay clean and the spot stops changing, because that means the ink is gone or as far as it will go.

What changes for yours

Adjust for your fabric

White shirts and whites

White cotton and linen can take the full sequence, including the diluted chlorine bleach in the final wash, as long as the care label allows bleach. Don't over-soak it or go past the recommended amount, since misuse can leave yellow stains that won't come out.

White fabric shows every remaining mark, so check it in good light before drying and repeat the matching treatment on any faint line.

Colors and denim

Colored fabric is where test results matter most, so test on a hidden seam first and stop the moment the color moves. Skip chlorine bleach on colored garments unless you know they're colorfast.

Denim is tough enough for the full sequence, but alcohol can lift dye, so check the hidden seam for any color loss before you go further.

Silk, wool and delicates

Silk can't take the alcohol or acetone in these steps, and neither silk nor wool can take chlorine or oxygen bleach or enzyme detergent. Blot gently with plain water, and never rub, since rubbing damages silk and agitation makes wool felt.

If the ink stays after gentle blotting, take the piece to a professional rather than pushing harder at home. Velvet can't be ironed, and heirloom textiles should never go in the washing machine.

Dry-clean-only items

A dry-clean-only label means the washing steps are out, including the bleach step and anything that goes through the machine. Don't try the home sequence on it, since the solvents and heat involved are hard to control at home.

Blot the wet ink gently and get the garment to a dry cleaner as soon as you can, and tell them what kind of ink it was so they can choose the right solvent.

Old, dried or set-in stains

A pen that exploded in the dryer has usually been heat-set, so start with a longer soak than you'd use on a fresh spot. Apply a detergent to the spot and let it stand overnight if needed, then apply a prewash stain remover and launder.

Dried India ink can soak overnight in warm water with 1 to 4 tablespoons of ammonia per quart, and you should rinse out all the ammonia before anything else. Don't follow that soak with chlorine bleach.

Some ink won't come out even after a soak, and no single treatment guarantees a full result on every pen. Judge the stain after each round, and stop when the fabric stops improving.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on ink?

Several household remedies come up for ink, but only two of them are used in the steps above. The rest are listed below with the reason they stay out, so you know what to skip and why.

Works2Skip5

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
Rubbing alcoholGet it on Amazon WorksThis is the main remover in the steps, used at 70% isopropyl or 90% denatured alcohol with no added color or fragrance.
Acetone / nail polish removerGet it on Amazon WorksIt's the solvent for felt-tip and non-red stamp-pad ink in the steps, used pure. Use pure acetone, not oil-type nail polish remover.
Baking sodaSkipSkip baking soda on ink; rubbing alcohol or acetone works on felt-tip ink, and plain water handles India ink.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)SkipSkip peroxide; it's not for colored fabric that isn't colorfast or for metal tools.
Dish soapSkipSkip dish soap; never use it on silk, velvet or other delicate fabrics.
White vinegarSkipSkip vinegar; colored vinegar in particular can leave its own stain.
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)SkipIt's not used in these steps, since it's only for colorfast fabric and is off-limits for wool, silk and leather.

Chemical safety

Never mix these

Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.

Chlorine bleach + Vinegar

Vinegar is an acid, and acid mixed with bleach gives off toxic chlorine gas.

Ammonia + Vinegar

Poison Control warns that mixing ammonia products with other cleaners is dangerous, and the ammonia maker's safety sheet lists acids such as vinegar as incompatible.

Ammonia + Chlorine bleach

Bleach mixed with ammonia releases toxic chloramine gas.

Chlorine bleach + Rubbing alcohol

Bleach and rubbing alcohol can form chloroform, which causes dizziness, nausea and loss of consciousness.

If they mix by accident: Stop and add nothing else; leave the area for fresh air, open windows and keep children and pets away; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222, or 911 if anyone has trouble breathing.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't wash or dry it before treating

Laundering can set ink, and drying heat sets the stain for good, so it may become impossible to remove. Treat the spot first, then wash, and check it before anything goes near the dryer.

Don't rub the stain

Rubbing pushes ink deeper into the fibers and spreads it across the fabric. Blot, and work from the outside edge toward the center so the stain doesn't grow.

Don't mix chlorine bleach with other products

Never combine chlorine bleach with ammonia, vinegar or rubbing alcohol, since bleach with ammonia gives off toxic fumes. Rinse each product out with plain water before you move on to the next one.

Don't use solvents near a flame

Dry-cleaning solvents are flammable, so use them only in a well-ventilated room with no flames, pilot lights or sparks nearby. If you're not sure the room is safe, send the garment to a professional.

Troubleshooting

If the stain is still there

Pick what you're seeing:

The ink ring keeps getting bigger

Sponge the surrounding fabric with alcohol first, then work from the back onto paper towels. Blot inward from the edge.

Alcohol isn't lifting a marker stain

Switch to a prewash stain remover or, on a compatible fabric, acetone. Keep sponging until the bleeding stops.

Paper towels stop picking up color, but a mark remains

Rinse thoroughly, pretreat and launder, then check before drying.

The test seam lost color

Stop using alcohol on that garment. A dry cleaner is the safer choice for dye-sensitive fabric.

When to call a professional

Take dry-clean-only pieces, heirlooms and anything you can't replace to a professional cleaner rather than testing these steps on them. A professional is also the right call when the ink stays visible after the set-in soak.

Questions

Does ink come out of clothes?

Often, yes, if you treat it while it's fresh and the fabric can take the steps. Felt-tip and non-red stamp-pad ink respond to alcohol or acetone, and India ink responds to water first. Ink that has dried or been through the dryer is much harder, and some inks won't come out completely.

Can you use rubbing alcohol on ink stains?

Yes, it's the main remover in these steps, and the one to use is 70% isopropyl or 90% denatured alcohol with no added color or fragrance. Work it from the back of the stain and blot as you go, checking the fabric as you work.

How do I get ink out of the dryer?

Don't dry anything else until every garment from the load has been checked, because heat sets the ink further. Treat each piece with the steps for its fabric, and use the overnight soak for ink that has already dried on.

Does black ink come out differently from blue?

The ink's type matters more than its color, so work out whether it's felt-tip, India ink or stamp-pad ink first. Felt-tip and non-red stamp-pad ink follow the alcohol and acetone steps, and India ink gets the water-first treatment. Red stamp-pad ink is a dye, so test a hidden spot first, since alcohol can lift some dyes.

Can ink come out after it's been washed and dried?

Sometimes, but it's harder, and the overnight detergent soak is the first thing to try. If the ink is still visible after the soak, repeat only while the fabric is improving.

Is hand sanitizer safe to use on ink?

Hand sanitizer isn't one of the remedies in these steps, so skip it. For an alcohol-based option, use rubbing alcohol at 70% isopropyl or 90% denatured with no added color or fragrance instead.

Related

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. University of Georgia Extension
  2. American Cleaning Institute
  3. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension
  4. Cornell Cooperative Extension
  5. Iowa State University Extension
  6. Carpet and Rug Institute
  7. Natural Stone Institute