First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Scrape off excess makeup before you apply anything.
- Blot instead of rubbing, so the stain doesn't spread.
- Treat the oily or waxy part first, then the color.
- Test any remover on a hidden spot first.
Makeup on clothes is oil and pigment working together, so the oily part has to come out before the color does. Liquid makeup, mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, face powder and rouge all belong to that oily group, so the grease is where you start no matter the shade. A stubborn oil-based mark may need several rounds before nothing more lifts out.
Mascara and concealer on clothes are the marks most people end up dealing with. A white shirt and colored denim need different handling, since the fabric sets how strong a product you can use. Keep the dryer off until the mark is completely gone, because heat can set whatever is left behind.
9 items
What you'll need
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- Dish detergentFor dabbing oil-based makeup from the back and for the ammonia solution. (opens Amazon)
- Commercial spot cleaner or waterless hand cleanerAn alternative for dabbing oil-based makeup from the back. (opens Amazon)
- Heavy-duty liquid laundry detergentFor pretreating water-based makeup and for the wash. (opens Amazon)
- Light-duty liquid detergentFor the ammonia solution on an oily stain that remains. (opens Amazon)
- Household ammonia (opens Amazon)
- All-fabric oxygen bleachFor the presoak on large or set-in stains. (opens Amazon)
- Clean dry clothsFor blotting and for laying the stain face down.
- Dry-cleaning solvent with mineral oil or a dry spotterOnly for stubborn oil-based stains, in a well-ventilated room away from flame and sparks. (opens Amazon)
- Cellulose sponge (opens Amazon)
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7 steps
How to get makeup out of clothes
Step 1 of 7
Scrape off the excess makeup
Lift off whatever sits on top with the edge of a dull knife or a spoon, working from the outside in so the makeup doesn't spread. Then blot the spot with a clean dry cloth to pick up what's still loose.
Tip. Switch to a clean part of the cloth each time it picks up color.
Careful. Rubbing spreads makeup and pushes the color into clean fabric.
Step 2 of 7
Pretreat the oily part first
Oil-based makeup, like foundation, lipstick and mascara, comes out from the back. Lay the stain face down on a clean dry cloth and dab the back with dish detergent, a commercial spot cleaner or waterless hand cleaner until no more color transfers. Water-based makeup can be pretreated instead with heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent, or with a paste of granular detergent and water.
Tip. Test a hidden spot first, and keep dabbing until the cloth stops picking up color.
Careful. Skip bar soap, because soap can set a fresh stain.
Step 3 of 7
Rinse and rub in detergent
Rinse the spot with water from the back so the color flushes out instead of sinking deeper. Then rub a little liquid detergent into the stain with your fingers.
Tip. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear before you move on.
Step 4 of 7
Presoak large or set-in stains
For a large or set-in stain, soak the area in 1 quart of water with 1 capful of an all-fabric oxygen bleach for up to 60 minutes. Small, fresh spots can skip this and go straight to the wash.
Careful. Don't soak longer than 60 minutes or use more than the stated amount; over-soaking can leave yellow stains that won't come out.
Step 5 of 7
Wash on the hottest allowed setting
Launder the item with detergent on the hottest setting the care label allows. If the label calls for warm or cold only, use that instead, because heat can set the stain.
Step 6 of 7
Treat any oily stain left over
If an oil-based stain is still there after the wash, sponge a light-duty liquid detergent solution with a few drops of ammonia onto it. Rinse thoroughly, then launder the item again.
Tip. Work from the back, so the oil pushes into the cloth rather than deeper into the fabric.
Careful. Never let ammonia meet chlorine bleach; rinse thoroughly between steps.
Step 7 of 7
Check the stain before drying
Look at the spot in good light while it's still damp, and check for any color or oily shine. If either is still there, repeat the pretreatment and the wash before anything gets dried.
Careful. Don't put it in the dryer or iron it until the stain is gone; heat can set it permanently.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for makeup
Keep a plain liquid laundry detergent, a dish detergent and a dry-cleaning solvent on hand for most makeup stains. An all-fabric oxygen bleach is worth having for presoaks, but check the care label first.
Puracy Laundry Stain Remover
Seventh Generation Laundry Stain Remover - Free & Clear
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on this fabric, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light before using any heat. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
See what to do for what you're seeing →If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →Pick what it is on
Makeup on every material
Carpet & rugs1
Bedding & linens2
Kitchen & bath4
Shoes & accessories1
Clothes & laundry2
Furniture & upholstery1
Walls1
Leather & suede1
No match. Try the main search for anything else.
How to tell it's working
A fresh stain should visibly lighten after the pretreatment, and the color should stop transferring to the cloth. If it looks lighter but still has an oily shine or a colored edge, go back to the pretreatment rather than moving on.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your fabric
Whites and white shirts
Work through the steps first, rinsing fully and checking the spot. Once the stain is gone and the item is rinsed, a bleach-safe white cotton or linen can take chlorine bleach as a final wash.
Add 1/3 cup chlorine bleach to a hot wash for that, and make sure any ammonia is completely rinsed out before the bleach goes in. Whites with spandex should use an all-fabric oxygen bleach instead of chlorine.
Colors and denim
Colored fabric can fade or bleed, so test any bleach or oxygen product on an inside seam first. Use warm water rather than the hottest setting unless the label allows hot.
Chlorine bleach is only for colorfast items, and never for anything that isn't. If the test spot changes color, stop and rinse it out before you try anything else.
Silk, wool and delicates
On silk, wool and other delicates, don't use dish detergent on silk or velvet, or any enzyme detergent on silk or wool. Don't scrub or brush the spot, because rubbing damages silk and agitation makes wool felt and shrink.
Blot with a clean dry cloth, then use a dry-cleaning solvent sparingly or take the piece to a cleaner. Heirloom textiles should never go in a washing machine, even on a gentle cycle.
Dry-clean-only items
If the label says dry clean only, don't run the item through the water steps or any oxygen bleach. A home solvent is only an option after a hidden test, and anything you're unsure about belongs with the cleaner.
Mention if it has already been through the dryer, since heat makes the stain harder to remove. Ask the cleaner to look at the spot before any treatment starts.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old makeup stains are harder to remove than fresh ones, so expect a few rounds of work rather than one. Start with the presoak and the pretreatment, and rewet the back of the spot before you begin if it has dried out.
For stubborn oil-based makeup, sponge a dry-cleaning solvent on the back of the stain, lubricate it with mineral oil or a dry spotter, and flush it with solvent. Repeat until nothing more lifts, and work in a well-ventilated room away from flame and sparks.
If it has already been through the dryer, expect it to be much harder, and repeat the solvent step before any more washing. If the color is still there, a bleach-safe white can take bleach for no longer than 15 minutes, because a dye stain that hasn't lifted by then won't lift with more bleach.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on makeup?
Plenty of home remedies get passed around for makeup, but most of them aren't needed. Most home remedies aren't needed for makeup, since detergent and the hottest wash the label allows do most of the work.
Works2Skip4
Chemical safety
Never mix these
Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.
Ammonia + Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)
Poison Control warns against mixing ammonia products with other cleaners, and OxiClean's maker says not to mix it with household chemicals.
If they mix by accident: Don't use the mixture; ventilate the room and avoid breathing fumes or touching it; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 for disposal advice or if anyone feels unwell.
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use acetone on acetate or modacrylic
Acetone nail polish remover dissolves acetate, triacetate and modacrylic fabrics. If you can't tell what the fiber is, don't reach for acetone at all; take the item to a cleaner.
Don't use chlorine bleach on wool or silk
Chlorine bleach is too harsh for wool, silk, mohair and spandex, and it can damage their fibers. Oxygen-based products are only an option where the fabric allows them, so check the label first.
Don't use undiluted bleach
Full-strength bleach can weaken fabric so it tears or wears out sooner. Dilute it first and keep to the amounts given above.
Don't guess at an unknown fabric
If you can't read the care label or don't know the fiber, don't start with hot water or a solvent. Test a hidden seam with cool water and a little detergent, and take the item to a cleaner if the spot doesn't respond.
Troubleshooting
If the stain is still there
Pick what you're seeing:
Color keeps spreading as you dab
Too much liquid is on the stain. Switch to a dry section of cloth underneath and use less product per dab.
A shadow remains after washing
The oily part is not fully out. Apply light-duty liquid detergent with a few drops of ammonia, rinse thoroughly, and wash again.
The stain is old and already went through the dryer
Start with the presoak, then the oil-based treatment from the back. Expect to repeat each step.
Not sure if the makeup is water- or oil-based
Treat it as oil-based and work from the back with dish detergent. That method also suits long-wear and waterproof products.
When to call a professional
A professional cleaner is the right call when the item is valuable or the stain is large, especially on dry-clean-only pieces, silk, wool or heirlooms. They can match the treatment to the fiber, which a home test can't fully show.
Questions
How do you get foundation or concealer out of clothes?
Foundation and concealer are oil-based, so dab the back of the stain face down with dish detergent or a waterless hand cleaner until no more color transfers. Rinse, rub in a little detergent, then wash on the hottest setting the care label allows and check before drying.
How do you get eyeliner and eyeshadow out of clothes?
Eyeliner and eyeshadow contain fats, oils and waxes, so they usually need the solvent treatment for stubborn oil-based makeup before a wash. Finish with detergent and a few drops of ammonia, then rinse well before anything goes near the dryer.
Do blush, powder and liquid makeup come out of clothes?
Yes, they usually do with the same approach. Scrape away loose powder first, then pretreat the oily part, since liquid and cream formulas need that step most.
Will makeup stains come out of clothes?
Most fresh makeup stains come out of washable clothes when the oily part is removed first. Old, dried or heat-set stains are harder, and silk, wool and dry-clean-only pieces usually need a cleaner.
How do you get mascara and waterproof mascara out of clothes?
Mascara is oil-based, so dab the back of the stain face down with dish detergent or a waterless hand cleaner until it stops transferring. If a shadow stays after the wash, waterproof mascara tends to need the solvent treatment for stubborn oil-based makeup.
Can you remove a dried makeup stain without a full wash?
Yes, you can start on a dried spot by scraping, pretreating from the back, then rinsing and rubbing in detergent. Finish with a wash on the hottest setting the care label allows, and keep it out of the dryer until the stain is gone.
Can I use a dry-cleaning solvent on clothes at home?
Yes, if the fabric can take it, sponge it from the back and use it sparingly. Test a hidden spot first, and stop if the color or the fabric starts to change.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.