How to Remove Rust

Bare steel tools take the main method as written, so brush and sand the rust off first. Use the gel only on the parts of the tool you can't reach with sandpaper.

A badly rusted tool needs the longer treatment in the set-in section below. Wire brushes and steel wool are the right tools for the job, and sandpaper works well on the flat faces.

Bare steel parts such as a chain or frame tube follow the main method, and a wire brush does the first pass on the chain. Chrome rims and fittings need a gentler hand, so keep the wire brush on the bare steel.

After cleaning, the frame should be fully dry before you paint it. The gel step can reach the joints where sanding can't.

The method works on the bare steel parts of a firearm, but treat it as general metal work rather than gun care. Keep the sanding light and stick to the exterior metal.

For rust inside the barrel or in the action, a gunsmith is the safer choice than sanding or soaking.

Small bare steel hardware follows the same steps, but a hard scrub can wear down threads and screw slots, so use the wire brush gently. For a stuck nut or screw, the gel remover works best on the rusted area, left to stand for the full time on its label.

Work on one piece at a time so small parts don't get mixed up. A badly rusted small part can take the overnight vinegar soak in the set-in section below.

Knives and scissors are bare steel and can take a light brush and a sanding pass, so sand only the flat faces and keep the edges clear. Stainless steel responds to a different touch: rub the spot with a damp piece of very fine emery paper, then rub it with a cut slice of onion.

Cast-iron cookware needs its own approach, so the cast-iron guide is the place to go for it.

Brake rotors and car frames are steel, so the main method applies, with a wire brush for the loose rust and sandpaper down to bare metal. Keep the work away from the tires, and keep the pressure-washer nozzle well back from the tire sidewall and bead if you rinse the frame.

Aluminum wheels are a different case, so skip the wire brush and abrasive cleaners there. A rusted brake rotor is a safety part, so inspect it after cleaning before you drive.

For a gate, hinge, or piece of furniture, brush off the loose rust and sand the bare spots by hand or with a drill. Painted metal is the tricky case, because you usually sand only the rusted spots and leave the rest of the paint alone.

On painted metal, skip the gel and brush and sand the rusted spots instead. Once they're bare and dry, touch them up with a rust-resistant paint.

Coins are thin and easy to damage, so the wire brush and sandpaper from the main method are too rough for them. Start with a quick rinse in warm water and a soft cloth, which is the gentlest first step.

If the coin has any value, take it to a coin dealer rather than scrubbing it yourself, since cleaning can lower what it's worth. For a common penny, the gentle rinse is usually enough.

A pipe or water heater fixed in place is not a job for the steps above, since you can't sand or soak it there. Rust that comes from iron in household water is a plumbing question, so ask a plumber to check it.

A loose metal water bottle can be scrubbed on the outside with the main method, then rinsed and dried fully before you use it again.