First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Scrape off extra makeup with a dull knife or spoon.
- Blot the stain. Do not rub or brush it.
- Treat it now, because a set-in stain is harder to remove.
- Keep heat away from it until it is gone.
Liquid foundation is oil mixed with pigment, which means it sinks into fibers and smears the moment you rub it. The oil has to loosen before the color can lift, and that's why a plain rinse rarely does the job. Fresh marks respond much better than ones that have dried, which can need repeated soak and wash cycles with air drying in between.
Work the spot from the back of the fabric so you push the pigment out instead of deeper in. On a white shirt, an enzyme laundry pretreater applied before washing helps break up the oil in liquid foundation. If the foundation has dried for days, plan on repeated soaks, and keep it out of the dryer until the mark is gone.
6 items
What you'll need
Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.
- Dull knife or spoonLifts off the excess makeup without pushing it deeper.
- Dishwashing liquid or heavy-duty liquid laundry detergentLoosens the oils in the stain. (opens Amazon)
- Clean white clothBlots the stain so the mark does not spread back. (opens Amazon)
- Color-safe oxygen stain removerUsed for the soak, 1 capful per quart of water. (opens Amazon)
- Basin or sinkHolds the 1 quart of water for the soak. (opens Amazon)
- Solvent spot cleaner or waterless hand cleanerOnly for stubborn oily marks that remain after the wash. (opens Amazon)
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
6 steps
How to get foundation out of clothes
Step 1 of 6
Scrape off the excess makeup
Use a dull knife or the back of a spoon to lift away the loose makeup from the surface. Work gently and lift toward the outside so you do not push it deeper into the weave.
Tip. Lay the fabric flat on a clean towel before you start.
Step 2 of 6
Loosen the oils with detergent
For an oil-based foundation, work a little dishwashing liquid or heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent into the stain from the outside in. For a water-based cosmetic, dampen the stain and work in heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent the same way.
Tip. Use a clean fingertip so you do not transfer the makeup back onto the cloth.
Careful. Skip bar soap; it can set the stain and make it harder to remove.
Step 3 of 65-10 minutes
Let it sit, blot, and rinse
Let the detergent sit for 5-10 minutes so it can loosen the oils. Blot away the residue with a clean cloth, then rinse the stained area from the back of the fabric in the temperature the care label allows.
Tip. Blot with a clean part of the cloth each time.
Careful. Hot water can set protein stains and is not safe on synthetics, silk or wool.
Step 4 of 6
Soak the whole garment
For larger stains or a garment covered in makeup, mix 1 capful of color-safe oxygen stain remover into 1 quart of water. Soak the whole garment in that solution for up to 15 minutes. If the stain is small, you can skip this step and go straight to the wash.
Tip. Stir the solution once or twice so the remover dissolves.
Careful. Do not soak longer than 15 minutes; over-soaking can leave yellow stains that cannot be removed.
Step 5 of 6
Wash in the hottest label-safe water
Wash the garment with detergent in the hottest water the care label allows. If the care label is missing or you cannot tell the fiber, treat the item as delicate and take it to a dry cleaner instead.
Step 6 of 6
Check before the dryer
Look at the spot in good light before the item goes near the dryer. Air dry it, and if any mark is left, repeat the detergent and wash before you check again.
Tip. If an oily mark still shows, the set-in section below covers the stronger options.
Careful. No dryer or iron until the stain is gone; heat sets oily makeup permanently.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for foundation
Dishwashing liquid or heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent covers the first treatment, and a color-safe oxygen stain remover covers the soak. Keep a solvent spot cleaner or waterless hand cleaner on hand only for stubborn oily marks.
Puracy Laundry Stain Remover
Seventh Generation Laundry Stain Remover - Free & Clear
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on this fabric, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light before using any heat. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
See what to do for what you're seeing →If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
A fresh stain should fade and lift onto your cloth as you blot, and the spot should look lighter after the wash. If it is lighter but still visible, repeat the treatment before anything goes near heat.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your fabric
Whites and white shirts
The same steps work on whites, and cotton or linen takes the oxygen soak well. A white shirt or dress can go straight through the full treatment, so you do not need a separate test first.
If a faint mark is left after the wash, repeat the soak before the item goes anywhere near heat. Chlorine bleach is an option on white cotton and linen only, and only as the very last step, after everything is rinsed out.
Colors and denim
Colored fabric is more sensitive, so test the oxygen remover on a hidden seam before you soak the whole garment. Stop if the color starts to change.
Denim is cotton and takes the same steps, but use the hottest water only if the label clearly allows it for colored items.
Black and dark clothes
Start with the same scrape and detergent steps, since the stain shows on black fabric just as it does on light fabric. Dark dye is the first thing to change, so test the oxygen remover on a hidden seam and stop at any sign of color lifting.
Skip hot water on dark items unless the label clearly allows it. If the stain is faint after the first wash, repeat the detergent step rather than soaking longer.
Silk, wool and delicates
Silk and wool cannot take an oxygen soak or enzyme detergent, so skip the soak and the detergent steps. Blot the spot gently with a clean, dry cloth and leave it at that.
Take the item to a dry cleaner and say the stain is foundation so they treat the oil first. On velvet, skip water-based cleaners and never iron it, and a heirloom textile should never go in a washing machine, even on a gentle cycle.
Dry-clean-only items
Dry-clean-only pieces should go to a dry cleaner rather than the washer, so the home soak and wash do not apply. Mention the foundation when you drop it off, because the oil needs treating before any solvent.
Do not run these items through the oxygen soak or the washer. Ask the cleaner to pretreat the oily part first, since foundation has both oil and pigment.
Old, dried or set-in stains
An old foundation stain that sat for a while is harder than a fresh one, because the oil has had time to spread through the fibers. Start with the normal steps, then repeat the oxygen soak as many times as you need, keeping each soak to 15 minutes.
Dried foundation is harder still, since the oil has set into the fibers. For an oily stain that will not lift, use a commercial solvent cleaner or waterless hand cleaner on the spot, rinse, air dry, apply detergent, and launder again.
For a stubborn mark on cotton, colored or synthetic fabric, add a few drops of ammonia to a light-duty liquid detergent solution, apply it, rinse well, and launder. Skip the ammonia on silk or wool.
If the stain went through the dryer, it is harder again, but it can often still come out, so keep going with soak and wash cycles and air dry between rounds. Some stubborn stains leave a faint shadow, and it is better to stop there than to keep working until the fabric thins or fades.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on foundation?
A no-wash fix does not work with these steps, because the oils have to be loosened and rinsed out of the fabric. Soaking overnight goes well past the 15-minute limit on the oxygen soak, so keep any soak short and wash the item. Scraping, detergent and a wash is the quickest reliable fix, so other remedies aren't needed.
Works2Skip4
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't rub the stain deeper into the fabric.
Rubbing pushes the oily pigment into the weave and spreads the mark across more fibers. Blot and lift instead, and switch to a clean cloth whenever the one you are using picks up makeup.
Don't mix ammonia with chlorine bleach.
The two give off hazardous fumes, and the same goes for mixing any remover with another. If you need more than one product, rinse the fabric thoroughly between them.
Don't use a solvent in a closed room.
Solvent spot cleaners need good ventilation and must stay well away from flame and sparks. Open a window or work outside before you start, and keep the bottle capped when you are not using it.
Don't use chlorine bleach on wool, silk or spandex.
Chlorine can damage these fibers, and undiluted bleach weakens any fabric so it tears sooner. On cotton or linen, always dilute it first and use it only after everything has been rinsed out.
Troubleshooting
If the stain is still there
Pick what you're seeing:
A beige shadow remains after the first wash
Keep the item damp and go back to the detergent pretreatment, then soak and wash again. Several rounds with air drying in between are normal for heavy makeup.
The stain spread into a wider ring
Too much liquid or rubbing pushed the makeup outward. Blot the ring dry, then work detergent from the outer edge toward the center before rinsing again.
Detergent leaves a slick or stiff patch
Some residue stayed in the fibers. Rinse the spot longer under running water at the temperature the label permits, then wash again.
When to call a professional
Take silk, wool, velvet and dry-clean-only items to a dry cleaner, and tell them the stain is foundation. Do the same if the mark is still visible after the set-in options, since further home treatment risks the fabric.
Questions
Does foundation stain clothes, and will it wash out?
Yes, foundation stains most fabrics because the oil holds the pigment in the fibers. A fresh stain usually washes out with the scrape, detergent and wash described above. Old or dried foundation is harder and can leave a faint mark.
Do powder, mineral, or waterproof foundations work the same way?
Scrape off any loose powder first, since it lifts off easily. If the formula is oil-based or waterproof, use the oil step, and if you are not sure which kind it is, heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent works for both types.
Do I need a special foundation stain remover?
No. Dishwashing liquid or heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent handles the first treatment, and a color-safe oxygen stain remover covers the soak. A solvent spot cleaner or waterless hand cleaner is only for stubborn oily marks.
Does this work on shirts, dresses, pants, and jackets?
Yes, the same steps apply, as long as the care label allows the hottest wash you are using. Wool and silk pieces take a different route, so check the fiber before you start.
What if the foundation already went through the dryer?
Heat makes the stain harder to remove, but it can often still come out. Repeat the soak and wash, air dry the item, and check again before it goes near the dryer.
Can vinegar or baking soda remove foundation?
No. Detergent does the oil work on foundation, so skip both. The detergent does the oil work instead, since the oil has to be loosened before anything else.
What if I do not know what fabric it is?
Treat it as delicate: scrape it, blot it with a clean dry cloth, and take it to a dry cleaner. Do not try the soak or the detergent steps on a fabric you cannot identify.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.