First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Blot wet ink with a clean, dry white cloth or paper towel.
- Start while the ink is still fresh.
- Wet the stain and the concrete around it before using any cleaner.
- Test your cleaner on a hidden spot first.
Ink on concrete sinks into the pores of the stone, so the surface stays marked after a quick wipe. Marker and India inks respond to a solvent first, while ballpoint has its own glycerin method, so the ink type matters before anything wet goes on. A new mark tends to come up with a scrub, but one left for months may only lighten.
When you remove ink stains from concrete, start with a stiff brush and plain water before reaching for anything stronger. Oil-based ink can need a solvent, so test one in a small hidden spot first. If scrubbing only lightens a mark that's been there for months, that's the point to call a professional.
Before you start
What concrete, brick & driveways can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Hot water
- Soaking
Use with care5
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
6 items
What you'll need
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- Clean white cloth or white paper towelsLifts wet ink off the concrete without spreading it, and white won't add color. (opens Amazon)
- Garden hose or bucket of clean waterSoaks the stain and the concrete around it before any cleaner goes on.
- Mild detergent or kitchen cleanserThe scrub cleaner for most ink on concrete. (opens Amazon)
- Stiff fiber or non-metal bristle brushScrubs the ink without leaving rust particles behind. (opens Amazon)
- Oil and tar remover (optional)For oil-based felt-tip or India ink, after the hidden-spot test. (opens Amazon)
- Poultice material and plastic sheeting (optional)Talc, whiting, fuller's earth, diatomaceous earth or clay for a deep, localized stain.
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Blot the wet ink
Press a clean, dry white cloth or paper towel onto the wet ink to lift it off the concrete. Work from the outside edge toward the center so the stain doesn't spread, and switch to a fresh section of cloth as it fills. The sooner you start, the easier the ink is to lift.
Careful. Rubbing spreads the ink and works it deeper into the concrete.
Step 2 of 6
Wet the stain and surrounding concrete
Pour or spray water over the stain and the concrete around it until it's fully soaked. Keep it wet while you work so the masonry doesn't absorb the cleaner.
Step 3 of 6
Test the cleaner on a hidden spot
Put a small amount of the detergent on a hidden patch of concrete and let it dry. Check for any color transfer or change, and if either shows up, don't use that product on the stain.
Step 4 of 6
Brush the stain with water
Brush the wet stain with a stiff fiber brush and clean water in short, firm strokes. This loosens the surface ink before any detergent goes on.
Step 5 of 6
Scrub with detergent and a stiff brush
Work mild detergent or kitchen cleanser into the wet stain with a stiff bristle brush until the ink lifts. Keep the strokes on the stain itself, not the whole slab.
Step 6 of 6
Rinse thoroughly and check the result
Rinse the area with plenty of clean water, running it across the stain to carry away the loosened ink and detergent. Once it's dry, look at it in good light; if ink is still visible, move on to the set-in options. If you rinse with a pressure washer, keep it at or below 400 psi with a 25 to 50 degree fan tip held at least 12 inches from the concrete.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for ink on concrete, brick & driveways
Pick a proprietary masonry cleaner made for ink stains over a homemade mix, and use a mild detergent or kitchen cleanser for the basic scrub.
Amazon Basics Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on concrete, brick & driveways, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
The ink should fade as the stone releases it, and the rinse water should look clearer with each round. If the spot holds its tone after two dry checks, the ink is in the pores, and a poultice is the next move.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your concrete, brick & driveways
Unsealed concrete
Bare concrete soaks up ink quickly, so the wetting step matters most here. Work the detergent in while the surface is still wet, and rinse it off fully once the ink lifts.
If the spot is still dark after one pass, repeat the wet, scrub and rinse steps before you try a poultice.
Painted or coated concrete
Paint and coatings can react differently to cleaners, so test every product on a hidden spot before it goes on the stain. Oxygen-based cleaners are off the list for painted surfaces, so stick to water and mild detergent for the scrub.
If the ink has soaked through the coating, start with the detergent scrub and check the result before you move to anything stronger.
Oil-based ink on concrete
Felt-tip marker and India ink are oil-based, so for them the oil remover goes before the water scrub. Test it on a hidden spot first, follow the label, and rinse with water afterward.
If the oil remover loosens the ink but leaves a shadow, repeat the water scrub to clear what's left behind.
Stamped or colored concrete
Colored and stamped finishes can lift or fade under a strong cleaner, so keep the product mild and check a hidden patch for color transfer first. Press the brush lightly so the pattern and color stay intact.
If the ink sits inside a stamped pattern, a poultice is easier to work into the recesses than a long scrub.
Exposed aggregate or textured concrete
Rough surfaces hold ink in the gaps between stones, so the brush does more of the work here. Use a stiff fiber or bristle brush for the scrub and expect to repeat the wet and scrub steps before the ink lifts.
Ink that has reached deep into those gaps often needs the poultice, so move to it after one full scrub.
Concrete pavers
Ink that has run into the joints between pavers is sitting in grout, and the Grout guide covers those lines in more detail. Pavers with ink only on the faces respond to the same wet, scrub and rinse routine as a slab.
Use the steps above for the paver faces, and keep the scrub on the faces where you can. Rinse each paver well so no detergent is left behind.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old ink that has soaked into the concrete usually needs more than one scrub. Wet the area again, then decide whether the stain is spread out or confined to one small spot.
Dried ink in a small, localized spot is the best case for a poultice. Mix talc, whiting, fuller's earth, diatomaceous earth or clay with the right solvent, and spread it at least 1/8 inch thick over the stain. Cover it with plastic for 24 hours and let it dry before you scrape or brush it off.
If the stain is still there, repeat the poultice rather than scrubbing harder. Proprietary stain-specific cleaners are preferred over homemade mixes, so use one if the poultice doesn't do enough. Older, accumulated stains need stronger methods with more risk of damage, so test each one on a hidden spot first and expect more than one round.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on ink on concrete, brick & driveways?
Many home remedies for ink were written for fabric, not concrete. Here's how each one holds up on this surface.
Skip5Avoid1
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't mix products on the stain
Rinse each product out with plain water before you move to the next one. Bleach and ammonia give off toxic fumes, and bleach should stay away from vinegar and other acids too.
Don't use a solvent near flames
Oil removers and other solvents are flammable, so work in a well-ventilated area with no flames, pilot lights or sparks nearby. Keep the area clear of anything that could catch fire until the solvent is rinsed away.
Don't scrape a poultice before it dries
A poultice has to dry completely before it can draw the ink out. Scraping it while it's still wet smears the ink across the surface and makes the stain bigger.
Don't use bleach on an ink mark
Household bleach is listed for moss, algae and similar growth, not for ink on a slab. Mixing it with ammonia creates a toxic gas, so rinse thoroughly with water before you use any other product.
Don't reach for kerosene on a light mark
Kerosene is listed for heavy tar, not a faint ink line, and it needs a thorough rinse afterward. Save oil-based removers for marks that survived the detergent scrub.
Don't skip the patch test on colored slabs
A cleaner that works on one slab can lighten or dull the color on a stamped or dyed surface. Test on a small, out-of-sight area first and watch for any change in color or texture.
When to call a professional
A pro should look at the slab if it's stamped, colored or sealed with a coating that blocks cleaners, or if the mark is on historic stone. Give them the ink type, a rough age for the mark, and the products you've tried, so they can choose between a poultice and a lab test.
Questions
Will ink come out of concrete completely?
Often, if you act while the ink is still fresh and the blotting and scrub steps are done. Some inks can't be fully removed, and old or dried ink can leave a faint shadow even after a poultice.
Is vinegar safe on concrete ink?
No. Vinegar is an acid, and cement grout is on the list of surfaces it shouldn't touch, so keep it off concrete. Stick with water, mild detergent and a stiff brush for the scrub instead.
What if the ink is on painted or coated concrete?
Test every product on a hidden spot first, since paint and coatings can react differently. Skip the oxygen-based cleaners on painted surfaces, and stick to water and mild detergent for the scrub.
How long does a poultice take to work?
Cover the poultice with plastic for 24 hours and let it dry completely before you scrape or brush it off. Repeat as needed until the stain is gone or stops changing.
What if the ink has been on the concrete for years?
Older stains need stronger methods, and each one carries more risk of damage to the surface. Test each method on a hidden spot first, and prefer a proprietary stain-specific cleaner over a homemade mix.
Can I pressure wash ink off my patio?
Only as a rinse, and only at 400 psi or less. Use a fan tip between 25 and 50 degrees held a foot or more from the slab, and keep the pressure off mortar joints. On historic or grave stone, skip the pressure washer entirely.
Why do I need to wet the concrete before scrubbing?
Dry masonry pulls in the detergent and the loosened ink at the same time, so both sink deeper instead of lifting off. Saturating the area and the stone below it keeps the cleaner near the surface where the brush can reach it. Rinse the wet area well once you're done, and let it dry before you judge.
Is household bleach ever right for concrete?
Yes, but only for moss, algae and similar organic growth, typically diluted one to one with water. It isn't a cure for ink, and it should never meet ammonia, since the mix gives off a toxic gas. Rinse everything out before any other product goes on the slab.
Ink on other materials
Other stains on concrete, brick & driveways
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.