First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Blot wet ink with a dry cloth before you do anything else.
- Slip a clean white cloth behind the spot.
- Work from the edges of the stain toward the center.
- Check the care label for the fiber content.
Ink from a security tag shows up as a dark mark on the fabric, and it's often most noticeable on a new shirt or jacket. Fresh ink lifts far more readily than ink that has dried, and set-in stains are harder to shift. Start by reading the care label, since a dry-clean-only garment needs a professional sooner.
If you're figuring out how to take off ink security tag marks, work from the edges inward and keep the spot small. If the mark has dried, expect to repeat the treatment, since some stains take more than one pass to lift. Removing security dye tags from clothing is safer with a dry cleaner when the item is bulky, fragile or the mark is large.
Before you start
What security tag can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Soaking
- Enzyme cleaners
Use with care6
- Hot water
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid1
- Heat, once the stain is out
6 items
What you'll need
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- 70% isopropyl alcohol or 90% denatured alcoholThe main sponging liquid, with no added color or fragrance so it doesn't leave its own mark. (opens Amazon)
- Clean white cloths or cotton ballsDabbing with a clean section each round keeps the ink from smearing back onto the fabric. (opens Amazon)
- Clean white towelGives the garment a firm, absorbent surface while you work from the back. (opens Amazon)
- Pre-wash soil-and-stain removerA backup sponging liquid if the alcohol isn't safe for the fabric. (opens Amazon)
- Regular laundry detergentFor the wash once the ink has stopped coming out. (opens Amazon)
- Chlorine bleach (optional)Only for a last-step shadow on colorfast whites whose care label allows it. (opens Amazon)
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Protect the back of the fabric
Lay the garment flat on a clean white towel, stain side up. Slip a folded white cloth between the layers behind the spot so the ink can't transfer to the back. If the care label is missing or you can't tell what the fabric is, don't guess; take it to a dry cleaner instead.
Step 2 of 6
Sponge the ink with alcohol
Test a hidden inside seam first, since alcohol can change the color of untested dyes. Dampen a clean cloth with 70% isopropyl alcohol, or 90% denatured alcohol with no added color or fragrance, and dab the ink from the outside edge toward the center. Switch to a clean section of cloth as the ink lifts, and keep going until no more ink bleeds onto it.
Careful. Alcohol can't be used on acetate, triacetate, modacrylic, acrylic or silk, so take those to a dry cleaner.
Step 3 of 6
Let it dry, then repeat
Let the spot air dry completely, away from any heat. Check it in good light, and if any ink still shows, repeat the alcohol sponging with a clean cloth. Stop repeating once the cloth comes away clean.
Step 4 of 6
Rinse and launder the garment
Rinse the treated spot from the back under cool water to flush out the alcohol. Wash the garment at the hottest temperature the care label recommends, using your usual laundry detergent. Only put it through the wash once the ink has stopped coming out on the cloth.
Careful. Treat the stain while it's fresh, because laundering can set ink that's still there.
Step 5 of 6
Check the spot before any heat
Once the garment is out of the wash, look at the spot in good light while it air dries. If no ink is left, you're finished. If a faint shadow remains, move on to the last step.
Step 6 of 6
Finish with bleach only if needed
Rinse the garment thoroughly first, then apply diluted chlorine bleach to the shadow only if the fabric is a colorfast white whose care label allows it. Rinse it out completely and wash the garment again. Chlorine is a last resort, so skip this step if the spot has already cleared.
Careful. Chlorine bleach can't go on wool, silk, mohair, leather or spandex, or on items that aren't colorfast.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for ink on security tag
Pick 70% isopropyl alcohol with no added color or fragrance, since dyes and perfume can leave their own marks. A pre-wash soil-and-stain remover is the backup sponging liquid if the alcohol isn't safe for the fabric.
Shout Triple-Acting Laundry Stain Remover
Clorox 2 Laundry Stain Remover and Color Booster Powder, 49.2 Ounces
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on security tag, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
The ink is coming out when it transfers onto your cloth, and each new dab shows less of it. When a fresh dab comes away clean, let the spot dry and check it before doing anything else.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your security tag
Security tag pin
Start with the tag itself, because the ink can leak from where the pin went through the fabric. Work the pin out slowly from the back of the garment rather than yanking it, so the ink doesn't smear across the front. Once the tag is off, treat the ink on the fabric with the sponging steps, not the plastic.
If the tag has already split open, the ink may cover a wider area, so expect more rounds of clean cloth and more drying time.
Security dye tags
Dye tags usually leave colored ink, so the garment's color decides how you work. On dark or bright items, dab from the back of the fabric so the dye doesn't spread across the front, and switch to a clean cloth as soon as color starts to lift onto it.
Keep the alcohol moving rather than letting it sit, since unstable dyes can change color or fade. If a faint tint is left after the spot dries, repeat the sponging once and then move on to the wash.
Paint security tags
If it's paint rather than ink, the mark has probably dried, so it behaves like a set-in stain and may not come out completely. Dab from the back of the fabric with the same alcohol steps, and expect to repeat them more than once.
Don't scrape at dried paint with a blade, since that can damage the fabric. Let each round dry fully before you go again, so you can see how much has lifted.
New clothing with a tag
New clothes are usually the easiest case, because the ink is fresh and hasn't been through a wash yet. Start the same day you notice it, and work from the back so the ink doesn't spread onto the front.
Stop as soon as the ink stops coming onto your cloth, and check the care label before the first wash. If you can't tell what the fabric is, the dry cleaner is the safer choice than alcohol.
Old, dried or set-in stains
An old ink mark that has had time to dry is harder to lift than a fresh one, and it may not come out completely. Give it extra rounds of sponging with the alcohol, changing to a clean section of cloth each time. Acetone is the next step up, but only on fabrics that aren't acetate, triacetate or modacrylic.
If the ink has dried hard, use dry-cleaning solvent on the spot from the wrong side, sponging rather than rubbing. Test it on a hidden area first, since solvent can change some fabrics. Let each round dry before you go again, so you can see what's left.
If the garment has already been through the dryer, the heat may have set the mark, so expect a harder job. Check the dryer guide for what to do before you try anything stronger. If the ink is still there after all this, stop and take it to a professional rather than pushing harder.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on ink on security tag?
Plenty of household remedies get suggested for ink, but many don't suit fabric or this kind of stain. Rubbing alcohol is the one that suits this ink; skip the rest.
Works1Skip5
Chemical safety
Never mix these
Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.
Chlorine bleach + Rubbing alcohol
Bleach and rubbing alcohol can form chloroform, which causes dizziness, nausea and loss of consciousness.
If they mix by accident: Stop and add nothing else; leave the area for fresh air, open windows and keep children and pets away; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222, or 911 if anyone has trouble breathing.
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't dry or iron it yet
Heat sets ink and can make it impossible to remove, so keep the garment out of the dryer and off the iron until the spot is gone. Air drying is the only safe option during treatment.
Don't rub the spot with bar soap
Soap sets many stains, so a bar rubbed onto fresh ink can make the mark harder to lift. Stick with the alcohol and a clean cloth instead.
Don't use milk on ink
Milk is an old remedy for ink, but it adds a protein stain or sets the ink already there, leaving you with two problems. Skip it and use the alcohol steps.
Don't use bleach at full strength
Undiluted bleach can weaken fabric so it tears or wears out sooner. Never mix ammonia with chlorine bleach, since it gives off toxic fumes, and rinse thoroughly between products.
When to call a professional
Take 'dry-clean only' items to a professional dry cleaner promptly, and tell them the fiber content and the stain. Take even washable items if the mark covers a large area, the garment is bulky or the fabric is fragile.
Questions
Will rubbing alcohol remove ink tag ink from clothes?
It's the main treatment here, and it often lifts fresh ink from washable fabric. Results depend on how fresh the ink is and what the fabric is, so check an inside seam first and keep working from the back.
Can I use acetone instead of alcohol?
Only on fabrics that aren't acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, since acetate dissolves. Use it from the wrong side and test a hidden spot first.
Is paint from a security tag harder to remove than ink?
Usually, because dried paint is slower to lift and may not come out fully. Work from the back, repeat the alcohol rounds, and expect a partial result if it has dried for a long time.
Do dye tags need a different approach?
The method is mostly the same, but you should go more slowly on colored items, since dye can shift. Work from the back and keep the alcohol moving so the color doesn't spread.
Will vinegar or hydrogen peroxide help?
No, neither is a good pick for this fabric. Vinegar can weaken cotton, rayon, acetate and triacetate and may change color, and peroxide can change colored fabric that isn't colorfast.
Can I remove a security tag from new clothes without damaging them?
Usually yes, since the ink is fresh and the garment hasn't been washed. Work fast, dab from the back, and wash only after the spot is clear.
What if I can't tell what fabric it is?
Don't guess. Test the alcohol on an inside seam, and if you still can't tell or the spot won't lift, take the item to a dry cleaner.
Methods, care labels and related guides
Good to know
Ink on other materials
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.