How to Remove Tire Marks from Concrete, Brick & Driveways

Quick answer

Sweep the slab, cover the tire marks with a concrete degreaser, let it sit a few minutes, scrub with a stiff-bristled brush, then rinse well with water. Keep the concrete wet the whole time, since the degreaser should never dry on the slab.

Start the steps

First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Sweep or blow away loose dirt and grit first.
  2. Test any cleaner on a hidden area before you use it on the mark.
  3. Rubber from wheels that roll on vinyl leaves a brown-yellow stain that can't be removed. The Laminate & Vinyl Floors guide covers that surface.

Rubber residue on a driveway comes from plasticizers that migrate out of hot tires and settle onto the concrete. That film is petroleum-based, so a concrete degreaser is the right tool for it. Fresh marks usually come up in one pass, while older ones may only lighten until you repeat the soak.

If the surface is painted concrete, test the cleaner on a small corner before you work the whole driveway. To remove tire marks from cement, let the degreaser soak before you scrub so it has time to work. For old streaks, repeat the degreaser soak and scrub again, and call a pro if it still won't lift.

Before you start

What concrete, brick & driveways can take

Safe to use3

  • Water
  • Hot water
  • Soaking

Use with care5

  • Chlorine bleach
  • Oxygen bleach
  • Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
  • Acids (vinegar, lemon)
  • Scrubbing and abrasives

6 items

What you'll need

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6 steps

Step by step

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  1. Step 1 of 6

    Choose a concrete degreaser

    Tire marks are petroleum-based, so a concrete degreaser is the most effective cleaner for them. Choose one labeled for concrete and use it as the instructions say.

  2. Step 2 of 6

    Sweep away loose debris

    Sweep or blow off loose dirt and grit so the cleaner reaches the rubber directly. A stiff push broom works well on the larger areas of a driveway.

  3. Step 3 of 6

    Saturate the marks with degreaser

    Pour a generous amount of degreaser over each mark, covering it completely. If the concrete is dry, wet it first so it doesn't soak up the cleaner, and keep it saturated.

  4. Step 4 of 6A few minutes

    Let the degreaser sit

    Leave the degreaser on the marks for a few minutes so it can loosen the bond between the rubber and the concrete. Stay with it and keep the marks wet while you wait.

  5. Step 5 of 6

    Scrub with a stiff brush

    Scrub the marks with a stiff-bristled brush, working in small circles and adding more degreaser as needed. Keep the cleaner on the marks while you scrub.

    Tip. Work in overlapping passes so you don't miss the edges of each mark.

  6. Step 6 of 6

    Rinse the concrete thoroughly

    Rinse the concrete well with clean water from a hose until no cleaner or loose rubber runs off. Rinse the whole area, not just the marks, so no cleaner is left on the surrounding slab.

    Careful. A power washer must stay at or below 800 psi, since anything stronger is not appropriate on masonry.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

How to tell it's working

Each pass should leave the dark streak paler and softer at the edges, and the rinse water should run clearer with each round. Wait for the slab to dry fully before you call it finished, since a damp patch can look cleaner than it really is. If the mark still looks the same after the third scrub, it has set and needs the set-in steps.

What changes for yours

Adjust for your concrete, brick & driveways

Concrete driveway

Driveways usually have more marks spread over a bigger area, so work one section at a time to keep the degreaser wet until it's rinsed.

Rinse each section right after scrubbing, before you move to the next one, so the marks stay wet while you work.

Cement

Cement gets the same degreaser, scrub and rinse as concrete, so the same treatment applies.

The difference is the scrub: use short passes with the stiff-bristled brush and add cleaner between them rather than leaning hard on one spot. If the marks have been there a long time, use the repeat treatment for old marks instead of scrubbing harder.

Painted concrete

Use the degreaser as written, but scrub more gently and watch for any lifting or dulling in the paint. Skip oxygen bleach entirely, since it can damage painted surfaces.

Rinse with the hose rather than a power washer, since pressure can lift paint. Work one small patch at a time and rinse each before moving on.

Old, dried or set-in stains

Marks that have been on the slab for weeks or months need more than one pass. Repeat the degreaser soak and scrub, then rinse thoroughly before you judge the result.

Before you make a poultice, check for a commercial stain-specific cleaner, since those are preferred over homemade mixes. If you go the poultice route, mix talc, whiting, fuller's earth or clay with a commercial oil and tar remover, spread it at least 1/8 inch thick over the mark, and cover it with plastic for 24 hours.

Let the poultice dry, then scrape or brush it off, and repeat as needed. Older stains need stronger methods, and each stronger step carries more risk of damage to the surface, so stop if the concrete starts to look worn. If the mark is still there after a couple of rounds, get a professional opinion.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on tire marks on concrete, brick & driveways?

Plenty of home remedies float around for tire marks, but most were designed for fabric, counters and other surfaces. Only the degreaser in the steps above is suited to the petroleum-based film on concrete. Here's how each common remedy fares.

Skip6

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
White vinegarSkipVinegar isn't built for the petroleum film in tire rubber, so skip it. It's also unsafe on cement grout, so keep it off the joints.
Baking sodaSkipBaking soda is a gentle cleanser for light grime, not a degreaser, so it won't break down rubber on concrete.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)SkipLeave it out; the degreaser is the cleaner that breaks down the petroleum film.
Dish soapSkipDish soap is a mild cleaner, and it won't lift a petroleum-based rubber film from concrete. Use the degreaser instead.
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)SkipSkip oxygen bleach on plain concrete; it isn't needed for tire marks.
Rubbing alcoholSkipRubbing alcohol belongs to fabric spotting, and it won't break down tire rubber on concrete.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't rinse before the degreaser has worked

Rinsing early washes the cleaner away before it can loosen the rubber, so you end up scrubbing twice. Give the degreaser its few minutes, then start the scrub.

Don't skip the sweep

Grit left under the cleaner turns into an abrasive paste as you scrub, and that paste can mark the slab. A quick sweep first avoids it.

Don't wait on a fresh mark

The film keeps bonding to the concrete the longer it sits, so a mark from yesterday is much easier than one left for weeks. Clean it as soon as you see it, while one pass with the degreaser can still break it loose.

Don't treat only the darkest center

Tire marks usually spread past their dark core, and the lighter edges still hold a film. Cover the whole streak plus a few inches beyond it, so the degreaser reaches every part of the mark.

Troubleshooting

If the stain is still there

Pick what you're seeing:

The mark is still visible after one pass

Repeat the degreaser soak and scrub, then rinse thoroughly. Older, accumulated marks need stronger methods with more risk of damage, so go carefully and test again on a hidden spot if you change products.

The cleaner keeps drying before it has time to work

Apply more cleaner so the concrete stays saturated, and work smaller sections so you can scrub and rinse before anything dries. Keep the surface wet until the final rinse.

You don't know what made the mark

Test any cleaner on a hidden area first. An unknown stain can be sampled and sent to a testing laboratory if you need a definite answer before treating it.

One deep, set-in spot won't lift

Masonry guidance for deep, localized stains is a poultice (talc, whiting, fuller's earth, diatomaceous earth or clay plus the right solvent) at least 1/8 inch thick, covered with plastic for 24 hours, allowed to dry, then scraped or brushed off and repeated as needed.

When to call a professional

Bring in a pro if a coating or old sealant stops the degreaser from reaching the stain, or if the streak is still dark after the set-in steps. When you call, mention that it's tire residue so they can choose a product that suits the slab.

Questions

Will tire marks come off concrete at all?

Yes, in most cases. The marks are petroleum-based, so a concrete degreaser loosens them, and the scrub and rinse finish the job. Old marks that have dried into the slab may need a second round or the set-in treatment.

Why do tire marks show up on hot days?

Hot tires push plasticizers out of the rubber and onto the slab, so the marks are most likely in the hottest weather. Cleaning them while they're fresh is easier than waiting for them to bake in.

Can I use these steps in a garage or on a patio?

Yes. Garage floors and patios are concrete, so the same degreaser, scrub and rinse apply. If the floor is painted, use the painted concrete notes above.

How soon should I clean fresh tire marks?

As soon as you can. Fresh marks respond to one pass of the steps above, while marks that have been on the slab for weeks or months need the set-in treatment.

Is a pressure washer safe on a tire mark on my driveway?

Yes, as long as you keep it gentle. Hold the pressure at or under 400 psi, use a wide nozzle, and stay about a foot off the slab, since extra force mostly erodes the surface. Pairing the wash with the degreaser does more for the mark than pushing harder.

Why do I need to wet the concrete before I start?

Dry concrete drinks up degreaser unevenly, so some spots get far more product than others. Keeping the slab damp lets the cleaner spread across the streak evenly and rinse out completely.

Can I use bleach on a concrete slab?

Keep bleach for moss, algae, and similar growth, since a degreaser is the better tool for tire film. Use a separate product for the marks themselves, and rinse thoroughly afterward so nothing lingers on the slab.

Tire Marks on other materials

Other stains on concrete, brick & driveways

All 60 stains on concrete, brick & driveways

Start from the bigger picture

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. RadonSeal
  2. Forbo
  3. Carpet and Rug Institute
  4. University of Georgia Extension
  5. Brick Industry Association
  6. National Park Service
  7. Natural Stone Institute