How to Remove Tire Marks from Clothes

Quick answer

Blot the excess off with a clean white cloth, then soak the item in cold water for about 30 minutes. Work in liquid laundry detergent, wash it as the label allows, and keep it out of the dryer until the mark is gone.

Start the steps

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First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Blot with a clean white cloth or paper towel, not a colored one.
  2. Check the care label before anything wet touches the mark.
  3. Keep the item out of the dryer and away from the iron.

A tire mark on clothes is rubber residue that works into the fibers, and it lifts most easily while it's fresh. Since old marks take far more effort, act as soon as you notice it. If the label reads dry-clean only, get the item to a professional quickly and tell them the fiber content and the stain.

Bike tire stains on clothes are handled the same way as other tire stains, so start with the fresh spot. Test any spray on a hidden seam before it goes near the visible mark. If the fabric is delicate or the label is unclear, take it to a pro instead of guessing.

Before you start

What clothes can take

Safe to use3

  • Water
  • Soaking
  • Enzyme cleaners

Use with care6

  • Hot water
  • Chlorine bleach
  • Oxygen bleach
  • Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
  • Acids (vinegar, lemon)
  • Scrubbing and abrasives

Avoid1

  • Heat, once the stain is out

8 items

What you'll need

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7 steps

Step by step

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  1. Step 1 of 7

    Blot up the excess

    Grab a clean white cloth or paper towel and blot the fresh mark. Press, don't rub.

    Use a dull knife to gently scrape off any solids. Stick to white, since colored cloths and sponges can bleed dye onto the fabric.

    Tip. Work from the back of the fabric so you push the mark out instead of further in.

  2. Step 2 of 7

    Check the label and test

    Check the care label before anything else. When it says dry-clean only, don't try this at home: get the item to a dry cleaner promptly.

    If it's washable, test each product on a hidden seam or hem first. If the color shifts or the fabric gets damaged, stop right there.

  3. Step 3 of 730 minutes

    Soak in cold water

    Submerge the item in cold water for about 30 minutes. Cold is the safe starting point because you don't yet know what the stain is made of, and hot water can set it.

  4. Step 4 of 730 minutes

    Detergent work-in and wash

    Work a little liquid laundry detergent into the mark and leave it for about 30 minutes, then rinse. Wash the item in liquid detergent at the warmest temperature the label allows, rinse, and let it air-dry.

    Tip. Look at the mark in daylight before you go on, since it is easy to miss while the fabric is still wet.

  5. Step 5 of 7

    Enzyme presoak overnight

    If the mark is still there after washing, soak the item overnight in an enzyme laundry presoak. Then wash it again with the same detergent at the warmest temperature the label allows.

  6. Step 6 of 7

    Pretreat with solvent or oxygen bleach

    Work from the wrong side of the fabric and use the spot technique with a pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solvent. If the mark won't budge, reach for an all-fabric oxygen bleach, but only after it has passed a colorfastness test.

    Think rust might be involved? Use a rust remover before any bleach.

    Careful. Don't use acetone or nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic; acetate dissolves.

  7. Step 7 of 7

    Finish with chlorine bleach

    Only as the last step, after everything has been rinsed out, use a dilute chlorine bleach solution if the item is colorfast to chlorine and the label allows it. Follow the package directions. Skip it entirely on wool, silk, mohair, leather or spandex.

    Careful. Never use bleach at full strength, and never mix it with ammonia because the fumes are toxic.

If you'd rather buy than mix

Best products for tire marks on clothes

Choose an all-fabric oxygen bleach and a pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solvent, and check that the label says it is safe for your fabric. Look for products made for clothing rather than hard surfaces.

How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on clothes, and its directions fit the steps above.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

How to tell it's working

The mark should lighten after the detergent step and fade as the wash rinses out. If it is faint but still visible once the item is dry, go back to the presoak step rather than moving on to heat.

What changes for yours

Adjust for your clothes

Tire marks on clothes

Black tire marks sit in the fibers as rubber residue, so the cold soak and the detergent work-in do most of the lifting. Start with the steps as written and work from the back of the fabric.

If the mark leaves a dark shadow after washing, move on to the enzyme presoak instead of repeating the same wash. Keep the item away from heat until no trace remains.

Bike tire marks on clothes

Bike tires are rubber too, so the same steps apply in the same order. Pay extra attention to the hidden-seam test, since the mark can land on any part of the garment and you need to be sure the cleaner won't mark the fabric there.

Only move to the presoak and pretreatment steps if the mark survives the first wash, and check the color of any bright fabric before you use the oxygen bleach.

Rubber tire marks on clothes

Rubber tire stains follow the same route, and the main difference is how quickly you act. Blot the fresh mark before it dries, because dried rubber is much harder to lift from the fibers.

If the item is marked dry-clean only, skip the home steps and take it to a cleaner, telling them the stain is rubber. Otherwise, the spot technique with a solvent from the wrong side is the change that matters most for rubber.

Old, dried or set-in stains

If a tire mark has been there for days, expect a tougher fight than with a fresh one. The first wash might only fade it, so don't toss the item yet. Plan on an enzyme presoak plus a pretreatment.

Once it's dry, skip the harder scrubbing. Soak the piece overnight in an enzyme laundry presoak instead. After that, pretreat from the wrong side using the solvent spot technique, then use an all-fabric oxygen bleach if the item is colorfast.

Say you've already put heat on it and the mark's still showing. Then it has probably set, and going through the steps again may only lift part of it.

Your last option is chlorine bleach, and only on colorfast whites once everything else has been rinsed out. Still there after that? A dry cleaner is your realistic next stop.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on tire marks on clothes?

Many home remedies come up for tire marks, but most of them don't belong in this treatment. Detergent, an enzyme presoak, and a solvent or oxygen bleach do the job, so most of these remedies add nothing or carry a clear risk.

Works1Skip5

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)Get it on Amazon WorksUsed in the pretreatment step for a stubborn mark. Test it on a hidden area first, and keep it away from wool, silk, leather and colored fabric that isn't colorfast.
White vinegarSkipSkip vinegar: it's an acid that can weaken cotton, rayon, acetate and triacetate and may change color. The detergent and presoak do that job without the risk.
Baking sodaSkipSkip it: it's a scrubbing cleanser, and hard rubbing wears fabric thin and can spread the mark.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)SkipSkip peroxide, because the all-fabric oxygen bleach already covers the bleaching job. Peroxide shouldn't go on colored fabric that isn't colorfast.
Dish soapSkipSkip dish soap, because the laundry detergent does the same job. Dish soap is too harsh for delicate fabrics such as silk and velvet.
Rubbing alcoholSkipSkip alcohol, because it can dissolve acetate and bleed untested dyes. It isn't safe as a general remover on clothing.

Chemical safety

Never mix these

Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.

Chlorine bleach + Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)

Both makers advise against combining them: OxiClean says not to mix it with chlorine bleach, and Clorox says the two bleaches cancel each other out.

If they mix by accident: Don't use the mixture; ventilate the room and avoid breathing fumes or touching it; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 for disposal advice or if anyone feels unwell.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't dry or iron it too soon

Heat sets a tire mark, and it can become impossible to remove once it has set. Keep the item out of the dryer and away from the iron until you can no longer see the mark.

Don't use chlorine bleach on rust

Chlorine bleach makes a rust stain more intense or permanent. If you suspect rust, use a rust remover first and keep the bleach for the rest of the work.

Don't leave pretreatments on too long

Liquid and aerosol pretreatments can damage fabric if they sit longer than recommended. Gels on bright or fluorescent items should come off within a few minutes, before unstable dyes change or fade.

When to call a professional

Got a dry-clean-only piece? Get it to a professional dry cleaner promptly, and tell them the stain and the fiber content.

A cleaner is also worth it for washable items when the mark is large, the item is bulky or the fabric is fragile. Suede, leather and fur trim need a cleaner who specializes in them.

Questions

Can you wash tire marks out of clothes?

Yes, in many cases, as long as the care label allows washing. Start with a cold-water soak and a detergent work-in, then wash the item as the label allows. Keep it out of the dryer until no trace of the mark is left.

How long can a tire mark sit before it's too late?

Fresh marks are much easier to remove than old ones, so treat it as soon as you notice. A mark that has dried for days may need the overnight enzyme presoak, and one that has been through the dryer may stay partly visible.

Is oxygen bleach safe on all clothes?

No, it isn't right for every item. All-fabric oxygen bleach is the gentler choice for colored clothes, but only after a colorfastness test, and it should stay away from wool, silk and leather.

How do I know if an item is colorfast?

Test whatever you plan to use on a hidden seam or hem first. If the color changes or the fabric is damaged, don't use that product on the item.

What if the label says dry-clean only?

Take it to a professional dry cleaner promptly, and tell them it is a rubber tire mark. Skip the home steps on a dry-clean-only item, since the wrong treatment can ruin the garment.

Do the same steps work for bike tire marks?

Yes, bike tires are rubber, so the same steps apply in the same order. Test on a hidden seam first, and only move to the presoak if the first wash doesn't lift the mark.

Tire Marks on other materials

Other stains on clothes

All 54 stains on clothes

Start from the bigger picture

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. RadonSeal
  2. Forbo
  3. Carpet and Rug Institute
  4. University of Georgia Extension
  5. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension
  6. New Mexico State University Extension
  7. University of Kentucky Extension