First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Scrape off as much of the tar as you can.
- Wet the concrete around the stain before applying any cleaner.
- Keep any solvent work well ventilated, away from flames and sparks.
Tar on concrete is greasy, so water alone won't break it up, and a fresh smear and a thick splatter need different first moves. A store-bought product made for oil and tar does most of the work, with kerosene as the backup for heavy tar that gets rinsed off with water afterward. Older, built-up tar needs stronger methods, and each one carries more risk of damage to the surface.
Bitumen paint on a concrete floor needs a small test patch first, so you can see how the surface reacts. Old tar that has soaked into driveway concrete is best worked in small patches rather than all at once. If tar stains on painted concrete won't budge after a few rounds, stop and get a professional to check the surface.
Before you start
What concrete, brick & driveways can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Hot water
- Soaking
Use with care5
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
6 items
What you'll need
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- Putty knifeScrapes up loose tar and pries off hardened splatters. (opens Amazon)
- Commercial oil and tar removerThe main cleaner for this stain. (opens Amazon)
- Small hammerTaps brittle splatters so they break away.
- Dry ice or compressed carbon dioxideMakes thick tar brittle before it is broken off.
- KeroseneMixed with the remover for heavy tar only.
- Hose or bucket of waterRinses the area clean once the tar has come up.
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Scrape off the loose tar
Use a putty knife to lift off as much of the tar as you can before any liquid touches it. Work gently from the edges toward the middle so the tar doesn't smear wider across the concrete.
Step 2 of 6
Break off thick splatters
This is only needed for thick splatters. Dry ice or compressed carbon dioxide makes the tar brittle, so tap it lightly with a small hammer and pry it off with the putty knife.
Step 3 of 6
Test the remover in a hidden spot
Pick a corner or edge that's usually covered, and put a small amount of the commercial oil and tar remover on it. Check the concrete and any paint for color change or lifting before you treat the main stain.
Step 4 of 6
Apply the oil and tar remover
Follow the maker's instructions and apply the remover across the whole stain. Work it into the tar, then wipe away the softened tar with rags or the putty knife.
Step 5 of 6
Hose the area with water
Once the tar has come up, rinse the spot with plenty of water until the surface looks clear. Hose it off in sections so no remover is left sitting on the concrete.
Step 6 of 6
Recheck and repeat on dark patches
Let the concrete dry, then look for any dark film that's left. Repeat the remover on those patches only, and rinse again.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for tar on concrete, brick & driveways
Choose a commercial oil and tar remover over a homemade mix, since proprietary cleaners are the preferred option for this stain. Use kerosene only for heavy tar, mixed with the remover.
Goo Gone Goo & Adhesive Remover Spray Gel
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on concrete, brick & driveways, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
A tar patch that's lifting turns grayer and gets smaller with every hose-off, so you can track progress across the slab. Wait until the concrete is fully dry before you judge it, since damp concrete hides how much is left. If the outline stays sharp and dark after a full rinse and dry, the tar has set and the set-in section takes over.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your concrete, brick & driveways
Driveways
On a driveway, tar usually shows up as thick splatters or wide smears, so sort them before you start. Thick splatters are the ones to break off with dry ice or compressed carbon dioxide, and smears are handled with the remover and hose-off steps.
Work one section at a time so each patch gets rinsed before the next one is treated. Repeat the remover only on the spots that still look dark once the surface has dried.
Painted concrete
Paint is the part you can lose, so the test spot matters more here than on bare concrete. Check it for lifting, dulling or color change before you go ahead.
If it holds, treat the stain using the same steps as bare concrete, but stop as soon as the tar is gone so the paint isn't worked longer than it needs to be. Leave any patch where the paint lifts for a professional rather than pushing on.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old tar that has been sitting for a long time often bonds into the concrete, so the regular steps may only lighten it. Scrape again first, then apply the remover a second time and give it time to soften the tar before you wipe and hose.
For heavy tar that has dried thick, mix the commercial oil and tar remover with kerosene and apply it to the stain. Once the tar softens, wipe it up and rinse the kerosene away with water, then hose the area off.
Some stains won't come out completely with these steps, and that is a realistic result for old, built-up tar. Stronger treatments carry more risk of damaging the concrete, so stop once the surface is clean enough. If a dark shadow remains, a professional can judge whether more work is worth doing.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on tar on concrete, brick & driveways?
Bitumen paint is a coating rather than loose tar, and none of the household remedies below are meant for it. Your safest first move is the commercial oil and tar remover on a hidden patch. If the coating doesn't lift cleanly, stop and get a professional rather than trying stronger mixes.
Skip5Avoid1
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use gasoline or lighter fluid
They are not spot removers, and they add a fire risk to a job that already involves solvents. The commercial oil and tar remover is the product made for this stain.
Don't use cooking oil to loosen tar
Unsaturated cooking fats and oils that aren't fully removed age and form yellow stains, which leaves you with a second mark. If you need an oil to help lift the tar, use mineral oil and rinse it all away.
Don't leave kerosene sitting on the slab
Kerosene is only for heavy tar, and it has to be rinsed away with water once the tar lifts. Don't let it sit on the concrete while you wait around.
Don't gouge at thick tar with a blade
Prying at a thick splatter with a sharp tool can chip the surface. Chill the tar with dry ice or compressed carbon dioxide so it turns brittle, then tap lightly with a small hammer and lift it with a putty knife.
Don't start with a homemade mix
Proprietary cleaners made for oil and tar are the preferred choice over homemade mixes. Test whichever product you pick on a hidden spot first, and follow its directions.
When to call a professional
A sealed or coated slab can resist the remover, and a water repellent or unknown treatment in the way is your cue to call a pro. For wide areas of heavy tar, a contractor with the right equipment can use more aggressive solutions than a homeowner should, and you should mention what you've already applied.
Questions
Is tar on concrete permanent?
Not usually, though old tar that has dried into the surface can leave a shadow after the regular steps. Scrape, treat and rinse first, then judge whether what's left is worth more work.
Does kerosene damage concrete?
Kerosene is reserved for heavy tar, mixed into the remover and rinsed away with water. Because it can behave differently on different concrete finishes, check a hidden patch first and watch for any dulling or color change.
How long should the remover sit?
Follow the maker's instructions, since they set the wait time for your specific remover. After the first pass, check the spot and repeat only on the areas that still look dark.
Can I use the remover on painted concrete?
Yes, but only after a hidden-spot test shows the paint is holding up. If it lifts or dulls, stop and get professional advice rather than pushing on.
When should I call a professional for tar on concrete?
Call one if a dark shadow remains after the set-in treatment, or if the tar sits on a painted or coated surface you can't safely test. A professional can judge the stain without you risking the surface.
Can I pressure wash tar off my driveway?
Pressure washing can rinse loosened tar away, but keep it modest. Stay under 800 psi, which is the upper limit for masonry work, and never aim the spray straight into the joints. Pressure alone won't do the lifting, so use the remover first.
Why do I need to wet the slab first?
Dry masonry soaks up the cleaner and whatever it loosens, so the mess can sink further in. Wetting the surface before you apply anything keeps the remover on top, where it can work and then rinse away cleanly.
Is bleach safe to use on tar stains on concrete?
No, skip bleach on tar; it is made for moss, algae and similar growth rather than oil. Bleach also has no place on natural stone, so keep it off that surface entirely.
Tar on other materials
Other stains on concrete, brick & driveways
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.