First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Scrape off as much residue as you can.
- Lift what's left with a little mineral oil on a clean cloth.
- Pretest any remover on a hidden area.
- Stop and call a professional if the tar won't lift or the finish starts to change.
Tar smears across painted wood instead of wiping away, and rushing it can drag the paint up with it. Fresh tar lifts far more easily than tar that has hardened for days, and how well it comes out depends on how sound the finish is underneath. Expect several gentle passes rather than one hard scrub, and stop when the paint looks the way it did before.
Removing tar from painted wood goes better when you know what finish sits underneath, so check that first. Test any adhesive remover on a small hidden patch, since a weak finish can lift under it. If the tar has sunk deep into an unknown finish, call a pro before the paint starts to peel.
Before you start
What wood furniture can take
Use with care5
- Water
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid2
- Soaking
- Heat, once the stain is out
6 items
What you'll need
Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.
- Plastic scraper or dull knifeLifts loose tar without gouging the paint. (opens Amazon)
- Mineral oilSoftens the tar so it wipes away.
- Clean cloths or paper towelsPick up the tar and get replaced as they fill. (opens Amazon)
- Wood cabinet cleanerCleans sealed paint or finish once the tar is gone. (opens Amazon)
- Clean damp spongeApplies the cabinet cleaner and wipes it off. (opens Amazon)
- Soft dry clothDries the surface so no liquid is left on it. (opens Amazon)
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Scrape off the loose tar
Use a plastic scraper or dull knife to lift as much tar as you can, holding it at a low angle so you don't dig into the paint. Work from the edge of the spot toward the middle so the tar doesn't spread.
Step 2 of 6
Pretest on a hidden spot
Pick an inconspicuous area, such as the inside of a cabinet door or the underside of a table edge. Put a small amount of mineral oil there and check the paint before you touch the visible stain.
Careful. Don't skip this test, even on a surface that looks sturdy.
Step 3 of 6
Soften the tar with mineral oil
Dampen a clean cloth with a little mineral oil, not so much that it drips, and lay it on the tar. Let the oil work into the tar for a while, then lift the softened residue away with the cloth.
Step 4 of 6
Wipe up the softened residue
Wipe the spot with a fresh section of cloth, and replace it as soon as it picks up tar, since a loaded cloth only moves the stain around. Repeat the oil and wipe until no more tar comes away.
Tip. Turn the cloth to a clean side on every pass.
Step 5 of 6
Clean the sealed finish
Spray a wood cabinet cleaner onto a clean damp sponge, then wipe the area where the tar was. Follow with a second clean, damp cloth so no cleaner film is left on the paint.
Careful. Use cabinet cleaner only on sealed paint or finish, never on waxed, oiled, shellacked or unfinished wood.
Step 6 of 6
Dry the surface and check it
Dry the area with a soft cloth right away so no liquid is left on the paint. Look at it in good light, and if a faint dark trace remains, repeat the oil and wipe once more.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for tar on wood furniture
Look for a wood cabinet cleaner made for sealed finishes, and a plain mineral oil with no added fragrance.
Goof Off Adhesive Gunk Remover Gel
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on wood furniture, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
Each pass should lift a little dark residue onto the cloth, and the next pass should bring up less. When the cloth comes away clean and the paint feels smooth and dry, you're done, but a spot that stays tacky after drying still has tar in it.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your wood furniture
Wax-finished wood
On waxed wood, the cabinet cleaner is out, since it isn't made for waxed surfaces. Scrape off the loose tar, then rub the remaining residue gently in circles with fine steel wool or a synthetic pad and a little mineral spirits.
Once the tar is gone, rewax the spot and buff it so the sheen matches the area around it.
Oil-finished wood
Oil finishes only get a dry cloth for spills, so skip the cabinet cleaner and any wet method. Scrape off the loose tar, then wipe the residue with a dry cloth, and stop there if tar is still visible.
Oil finishes need periodic reapplication, so a professional is the safest choice to finish the job and refresh the finish.
Surface-finished wood floors
Lightly dampen a soft cloth with the hardwood floor cleaner the maker recommends, apply it directly to the stain, and repeat as needed. If the maker is unknown, a wood flooring professional can recommend a suitable generic hardwood cleaner.
Never wet-mop or steam the floor, and don't let any cleaner sit on the boards. If the tar is still there after this, call a certified wood flooring professional rather than scrubbing harder.
Wood with an unknown finish
If you can't tell whether the wood is painted, sealed, waxed or oiled, leave the cabinet cleaner out. Scrape off the loose tar, then lift what's left with a little mineral oil on a clean cloth, testing a hidden spot first.
If the tar doesn't come off or you're unsure what the finish is, stop before the coating gets damaged and ask a professional to identify it.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old tar that has hardened needs more time with the mineral oil before it lifts. Lay a cloth with a little oil over the spot, leave it for a while, then lift and wipe as before.
Alternate the oil and the wipe, using fresh cloth each time, until the tar stops coming away. Keep the pressure light, since force is what scuffs the paint.
If the tar is still there after several rounds, stop, because more rubbing risks damaging the paint or finish. Marks left behind on the finish are a repair job, and a professional can advise on the next step.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on tar on wood furniture?
Most remedies you'll find online don't lift tar, and some can harm painted or finished wood. Here is how the common ones compare for this stain on painted wood.
Skip4Avoid2
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use gasoline or lighter fluid
Both are flammable, and neither belongs anywhere near painted wood. If you ever use a solvent, keep the room ventilated and away from flames and sparks.
Don't use cooking oil as the lubricant
Unsaturated cooking oils that aren't fully removed will age and turn yellow, leaving a second stain on top of the first. Stick with mineral oil and wipe up every trace of it.
Don't reach for steam or a steam mop
Heat from a steam mop or a hot, wet cloth can soften the tar, but the same heat works on the finish too. Stick with a little oil on a cloth at room temperature, since that loosens the tar without adding moisture to the paint.
Don't pour oil onto the paint
A puddle of mineral oil can soak past the tar and leave a greasy halo around the spot. Dampen a small cloth, work one patch at a time, and wipe off the oil before you move on.
Don't dig at the tar with a sharp tool
A metal blade or a key can gouge the paint, and the bare wood it exposes soaks up tar and stains. Scrape gently with a dull edge and lift the residue in thin layers so the paint stays put.
When to call a professional
If the tar has gone through the paint into bare wood, or the finish is lifting around the spot, a professional painter or furniture refinisher should take over. In a home built before 1978, disturbing more than 6 square feet needs lead-safe certification, so check the age of the house first. Tell them it's tar and list everything you've already used on it, including any oil or solvent.
Questions
Will tar leave a permanent mark on painted wood?
Often not, if you act while the tar is fresh and work gently. Old tar that has soaked into the paint can leave a faint mark, and that's a finish problem, so don't scrub harder to chase it.
Is mineral oil safe on painted wood?
It's the lubricant used in these steps, but painted finishes vary, so test it on a hidden spot first. Wipe off all the oil afterward so the paint is clean.
How long does it take to remove tar from wood?
It depends on how old and thick the tar is. Fresh tar often lifts in a few rounds of oil and wiping, while old tar takes more patience and more rounds.
Can heat help loosen tar on wood?
No. Heat can damage a painted or sealed finish, and it can make the tar spread or soften into the paint. Stick with room-temperature mineral oil and gentle wiping, which lifts the tar without putting the coating at risk.
What should I do if the tar won't come out?
Stop before the finish gets damaged, and get a professional to look at it. A certified wood flooring professional can handle floors, and a furniture restorer can assess painted pieces.
Is a white ring on wood the same as a tar mark?
No. A white ring is moisture trapped in the finish, so it looks pale and cloudy rather than dark and greasy like tar. If one shows up after you've cleared the tar, it's a finish problem rather than leftover tar, and the usual fix is a gentle buff with fine steel wool and a bit of wipe-on poly.
Can a dark mark left by tar be lightened?
Sometimes, but only when the mark has reached bare wood rather than sitting in the finish. Dark marks can be lightened with a diluted chlorine bleach repair, applied around the mark first and then on it, but it's a last resort and you should test a hidden spot before you try it. If the mark still shows after that, a professional refinisher is the safer route.
How can I tell if the finish on this piece is wax?
Rub a little mineral spirits onto a white rag and press it on a hidden spot of the wood. If the rag picks up a yellow or brown smear, the piece is wax-finished, and the wax-finished card in the adjust section applies. Wax changes which products are safe, so run this test before you use any solvent.
Tar on other materials
Other stains on wood furniture
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.