First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Put on gloves and wipe up the solids with paper towels.
- Blot the excess. Don't rub.
- Treat it as soon as you can, since dried stains are harder to lift.
- Keep heat off the spot until the stain is gone.
Vomit on concrete is a protein-and-starch stain, and it soaks into the pores of the surface, so it gets harder to lift each hour it sits. A fresh spill rinses away with water and a stiff brush, while dried-on vomit usually takes several rounds. If the concrete is sealed or painted, test the cleaner in a hidden corner before you commit to the whole spot.
Don't reach for anything strong on fresh vomit stains on concrete, since the first attempt is usually the easiest one. If the mark has dried, repeat the mild detergent scrub over a few rounds and rinse well between each one. Keep the brush gentle on sealed or painted concrete, since a hard scrub can dull the finish.
Before you start
What concrete, brick & driveways can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Hot water
- Soaking
Use with care5
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
6 items
What you'll need
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- Rubber or disposable glovesKeeps the mess off your skin. (opens Amazon)
- Paper towels and a plastic trash bagLift the solids and seal them away. (opens Amazon)
- Cold water and a bucketSoaks the concrete so it doesn't soak up the cleaner. (opens Amazon)
- Mild liquid dish soap or kitchen cleanserThe cleaner for the scrub. (opens Amazon)
- Stiff bristle brush with no metal bristlesScrubs the stain without wire. (opens Amazon)
- Proprietary masonry cleaner made for stainsFor a spot that stays after the basic scrub. (opens Amazon)
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Wipe up the solids
Pull on rubber or disposable gloves before you touch anything. Wipe up the solids with paper towels and seal them in a plastic trash bag.
Tip. Tie the bag closed right away so the smell stays contained.
Step 2 of 6
Blot the liquid up
Press paper towels onto the wet area and lift the liquid out rather than spreading it. Work from the outside edge toward the center so the stain doesn't grow.
Step 3 of 6
Soak the spot with cold water
Saturate the stain and the concrete around it with cold water, and keep it wet until the cleaner goes on. A wet surface keeps the concrete from soaking up the cleaner.
Step 4 of 6
Test the cleaner on a patch
Try the mild detergent first on a small, out-of-the-way patch. If you don't know whether the concrete is sealed or painted, this test matters even more, so check the patch once it dries before going on.
Step 5 of 6
Scrub with detergent and a stiff brush
Mix a mild dish soap or kitchen cleanser into water, then scrub the stain with a stiff bristle brush using short, firm strokes. Keep the scrubbing on the stain itself so you don't spread it.
Step 6 of 6
Rinse thoroughly and check the spot
Flush the area with plenty of clean water until no suds or cleaner residue remain. Let it dry, then look closely at what's left before you decide whether the stain needs more.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for vomit on concrete, brick & driveways
For a stubborn spot, a proprietary masonry cleaner made for that kind of stain is the better choice over a homemade mix. Follow the label exactly, and use it only on a spot that stays after the basic scrub.
Dawn Ultra Dish Soap Refill Jug
These are the everyday supplies the steps above use, in the versions most people buy on Amazon.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
Each pass should lift the mark a shade, though you should only judge the result once it's dry, since damp masonry always looks darker. If the mark is unchanged after a couple of full soak, scrub and rinse rounds, it has set, and a poultice is the next step.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your concrete, brick & driveways
Throw Up or Vomit on Concrete
Fresh vomit on concrete is mostly about speed. Clear the solids first, then get water on the spot before the liquid soaks in.
If it has already sat for a while, the stain is harder to lift and the basic scrub may need a second round. Only move on to the set-in treatment if the scrub has been repeated and the spot still shows.
Dried vomit on concrete
Dried vomit has set onto the surface, so it usually needs more than one pass. Soak the spot again and repeat the wet scrub before you try anything stronger.
If color or residue is still visible after the rounds are done, move to the poultice rather than adding more detergent. Keep the rinse thorough at the end of each round.
Sealed or painted concrete
If the slab is sealed or painted, the cleaner may behave differently than it does on bare concrete. Test on a hidden patch before you scrub the stain itself.
If the patch shows any change, stop and ask a professional cleaner what is safe for that finish. Don't go on with the stronger methods until you know what the surface is.
Metal tools and painted trim
Keep metal tools and metal containers away from the spot, since rusting particles can be left behind. Painted trim and nearby surfaces should stay out of the cleaner altogether.
If any cleaner splashes, rinse it off right away with clean water and keep the scrubbing on the concrete itself.
Old, dried or set-in stains
An old vomit stain on concrete has usually soaked into the pores, so one scrub rarely lifts all of it. Repeat the wet scrub once the spot is fully dry, and let each round finish before you start the next.
If the stain has dried, switch to a poultice. Mix talc, whiting, fuller's earth, diatomaceous earth or clay with the right solvent, spread it at least 1/8 inch thick over the spot, and cover it with plastic for 24 hours. Let it dry, then scrape or brush it off, and repeat as needed.
A stain that survives several rounds has usually built up over time, and it needs stronger methods with more risk of damage to the concrete. Proprietary cleaners made for stains are a better bet than homemade mixes, so follow the label closely. If you can't identify the stain or the product, send a sample to a testing lab before you try anything harsher.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on vomit on concrete, brick & driveways?
Most home remedies don't belong on concrete. The ones below explain why the steps stick to water and a mild detergent.
Works1Skip4Avoid1
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use hot water on it first
Hot water cooks the protein in vomit, and it can set the stain into the concrete. Start with cold water and keep to cold through the scrub.
Don't rub the stain into the concrete
Rubbing pushes the solids and liquid deeper into the surface, which makes the stain harder to lift. Blot and lift instead, and save the brush for the wet scrub.
Don't mix cleaners
If one product isn't working, don't pour a second one in on top of it. Never combine ammonia with chlorine bleach, since the mix gives off toxic, lethal gas, and rinse thoroughly between any two products.
Don't skip the test patch
Concrete finishes vary, and a sealed or painted patch can react differently from bare concrete. Try the cleaner in an out-of-the-way corner and let it finish before you treat the whole stain.
Don't use metal tools near the trim
Metal scrapers and brushes can flake off particles that rust onto the surface, and they can chip paint on trim beside the slab. Use a stiff nylon brush and keep metal tools out of the work area.
Don't keep scrubbing one dried patch
Dried vomit that won't budge after a few rounds needs a different method rather than more force. Grinding on one spot wears the surface and can leave it looking worse, so switch to a poultice or a masonry cleaner made for the stain.
When to call a professional
A restoration contractor is the right call for old or decorative stone, or for any surface where a coating or water repellent is blocking the cleaner. When the stain is a mystery, a lab can sample it and identify it before anyone reaches for something stronger.
Questions
Why Does Vomit Stain Concrete?
Vomit is a protein-and-starch stain, and the stomach acid in it can leave a mark that is hard to lift. Concrete is porous, so the liquid soaks in if it sits, and time and heat make the stain harder still.
How long can I wait before cleaning vomit off concrete?
Clean it as soon as you can. Once it dries, the stain is harder to remove and may need several rounds of treatment.
What if the stain is still there after cleaning?
Repeat the wet scrub once the spot is dry, then try a poultice or a proprietary masonry cleaner made for stains. If it still shows, the stain is probably set in, and a professional cleaner can advise on what's safe for your concrete.
What do I do with the paper towels and gloves?
Seal the solids and paper towels in a plastic trash bag and throw it away. Keep the gloves on until the bag is tied, then wash your hands.
Is it safe to pressure wash vomit off a concrete driveway?
Yes, but only gently. Keep the pressure under 400 psi with a wide fan tip, and stand at least 12 inches back, since higher pressure erodes mortar joints and damages the surface. Warm water and a mild detergent will usually do more than extra force.
Do I need to soak the concrete before I put cleaner on it?
Yes, and it matters for vomit specifically. Dry concrete drinks up the cleaner and whatever it has loosened, which pushes the mess deeper. Keep the area wet through the final rinse so nothing dries back onto the surface.
Can I use chlorine bleach on a vomit stain on concrete?
It's a poor first choice. Household bleach is mainly used for moss and algae, so it isn't the tool for a protein stain. Start with water, a mild detergent and a stiff nylon brush, and move to a masonry product made for the stain only if that fails.
Vomit on other materials
Other stains on concrete, brick & driveways
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.