Prep first
Before you start
- Check the color first: orange to reddish-brown is usually rust, while green is copper, and each needs a different method.
- Pretest any remover on a hidden area before you use it on the visible stain.
- Start with the gentlest step: brushing comes before sanding, and sanding before any chemical remover.
- Keep the metal dry between steps, since moisture feeds rust.
Iron from water or a rusting object is behind most orange and rust-colored marks on metal. Rust on bare steel tools can take several rounds of brushing and gel treatment, so plan for a slower job. Blue-green marks on fixtures come from copper dissolved by corrosive water, which calls for a different approach, so sort out the color first.
Green spots in a copper sink usually give way to a gentle scrub, so begin there before reaching for anything stronger. A green stain on a copper pipe that keeps returning after cleaning points to the water as the likely cause. For brass, rub lightly and stop as soon as the color stops lifting.
Before you start
What metal, chrome & tools can take
Safe to use1
- Water
Use with care6
- Hot water
- Soaking
- Chlorine bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid1
- Heat, once the stain is out
9 items
What you'll need
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- Wire brush or drill brush attachmentknocks off the loose rust (opens Amazon)
- Medium-grit silicon carbide sandpapertakes the stain down to bare metal
- Fine sandpaper or steel woolsmooths bare steel after sanding (opens Amazon)
- Very fine emery paperfor stainless steel only
- Commercial gel-like rust removerfor parts you can't sand (opens Amazon)
- Rubber glovesfor handling the remover (opens Amazon)
- Warm water and a soft clothrinse off the remover and dry the surface (opens Amazon)
- Paint thinner and rust-resistant paintfor cleaning and sealing bare metal (opens Amazon)
- White vinegaronly for the overnight soak on severe rust on bare steel tools
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Brush off the loose rust
Use a wire brush, or a brush attachment on an electric drill, to knock off as much rust as you can. Keep brushing until the loose flakes are gone and you can see the metal underneath.
Step 2 of 6
Sand down to bare metal
Sand the stain with medium-grit silicon carbide paper until the metal looks bare. Finish with fine sandpaper or steel wool so the surface is smooth.
Tip. On stainless steel, rub the stain with a damp piece of very fine emery paper instead, then rub it with a slice of onion, rinse well and dry with a soft cloth.
Step 3 of 624 hours
Apply gel rust remover
On parts you can't sand, brush off what you can and coat the rusted area with a commercial gel-like rust remover as directed. Let it stand for at least 24 hours before you wash it off.
Careful. Rubber gloves: rust removers are strong acids, and oxalic acid is poisonous.
Step 4 of 6
Rinse and repeat if needed
Wash the area with warm water to remove the remover and the loosened rust. If rust is still visible, repeat the gel treatment and rinse again.
Careful. Don't apply remover to hot metal; let the surface cool first.
Step 5 of 6
Dry the metal completely
Dry the metal fully with a soft cloth, then look for any orange left before you move on. Check the whole area in good light, since a missed spot can show up again.
Step 6 of 6
Paint the bare metal
Once the metal is totally dry, paint it with a rust-resistant paint to protect the bare spot. Before painting, clean the surface with paint thinner to remove dust and residue.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for orange on metal, chrome & tools
Choose a commercial gel-like rust remover for parts you can't sand, since the gel stays where you put it. Follow its directions for how long to leave it on.
Bar Keepers Friend Cleanser
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on metal, chrome & tools, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
Heavy buildup usually takes more than one round.
Heavy or long-standing buildup →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
The job is done when the orange is gone and the metal looks even, with no rough or flaking spots left. If a dull orange patch returns after it dries, repeat the gel treatment and rinse again.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your metal, chrome & tools
Brass fixtures
Blue-green stains on brass come from copper dissolved by corrosive water, so they aren't rust and the rust steps don't fit. Sanding and gel remover are made for iron, so they don't belong on brass.
Start with the mildest cleaning you can, since the water is the likely cause of the blue-green. If it returns after cleaning, the water is the likely cause, and a plumber can check it.
Copper sink
Green spots in a copper sink are copper that has dissolved in corrosive water, which means the cause is the water rather than rust. Don't use the sanding or gel steps on the sink, since they're made for iron and don't suit copper.
Keep to the mildest cleaning you can, since the spots come from the water, not rust, and don't mix cleaners. If the spots keep coming back, the water is the thing to fix, and a plumber can check it.
Copper pipe
A green stain on a copper pipe is copper dissolved by corrosive water, not rust, so the rust method doesn't apply. Sanding would wear the pipe without fixing the water that causes the stain.
Stop before you scrub or add strong cleaners to a pipe that carries water. If the stain keeps coming back, a plumber should check the water and the joints.
Copper solder joint
A green stain on a solder joint is still copper dissolved by corrosive water, so the same cause applies. Keep the rust steps away from the joint, because they're made for iron and not for solder.
Leave the joint alone unless the green keeps spreading, since the water is what's causing it. If it does, a plumber can look at the joint and the water.
Heavy or long-standing buildup
Old rust that has built up over months usually needs more than brushing. On bare steel tools, a soak in white vinegar overnight works better for severe rust, and then a scrub with a wire brush or steel wool finishes the job.
If the rust has dried hard, start with the brushing and sanding above, then give it the full gel treatment without cutting the wait short. Coarse steel wool or lump pumice also works after the soak.
If rust is still there after the gel treatment and the soak, the stain may be permanent. Chrome and wheels have no set-in method beyond approved cleaners, so don't push harder with abrasives.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on orange on metal, chrome & tools?
Most kitchen and laundry remedies don't remove rust, and some can damage metal, so check each one before you try it. Some of these can damage metal, so skip any that don't suit the metal in question.
Skip5Avoid2
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use chlorine bleach on rust
Bleach sets rust and makes the stain worse, so keep it out of this job entirely. Never mix it with acidic rust cleaners, vinegar or lemon juice, because that releases chlorine gas.
Don't scrub chrome with steel wool
Steel wool and abrasive pads scratch chrome and leave a dull finish. Use the sanding method only on bare steel and stainless steel, and rely on approved cleaners for chrome parts.
Don't leave tools soaking or stored wet
A vinegar soak is only for severe rust on bare steel tools. Dry each tool thoroughly after a soak and store it dry, since leftover moisture causes rust to return.
When to call a professional
If the metal is pitted, flaking through, or part of a structural or plumbing piece, cleaning won't fix it, so have a professional look at it. For green stains on copper pipes, a plumber can check the water and the joints before you try more cleaning.
Questions
Is orange on metal always rust?
Usually, yes. Orange to reddish-brown stains are most often iron, which oxidizes when it meets air and water. Green stains are a different problem, since they come from copper dissolving in corrosive water.
How long does gel rust remover need?
Leave it to stand for at least 24 hours before washing it off with warm water. If rust is still visible after rinsing, repeat the gel treatment.
Can I clean rust off stainless steel?
Yes, but use the stainless method rather than standard sanding. Rub the stain with a damp piece of very fine emery paper, then rub it with a slice of onion, rinse well and dry with a soft cloth.
Can baking soda or salt remove rust?
Baking soda is too gentle for set-in rust and isn't safe on aluminum. Salt isn't safe on stainless steel, so skip it on those parts and use the steps above instead.
Why does the green come back on copper?
Green on copper usually comes from copper dissolving in corrosive water, so cleaning only treats the surface. If the color keeps returning, a plumber can check the water and fittings.
Can I use vinegar on green copper or brass?
Vinegar isn't the answer for green copper or brass, so don't count on it there. Pretest any cleaner on a hidden spot before using it on the visible stain.
Orange on other materials
Other stains on metal, chrome & tools
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.