Prep first
Before you start
- Light tarnish often comes off with a cotton cloth dampened with denatured alcohol.
- Hold off on any polish until you know whether the piece has plating, gilding or a patina.
- Keep water away from hollow handles and anything with wood or ivory.
Tarnish on silver dishes and flatware is a dark film that builds up when sulphur compounds in the air react with the metal. Every cleaning takes a little silver with it, so the gentlest method that works is the one to choose, even if it takes longer. Check whether the piece is plated, gilded or has an antique patina first, because polishing a patina away is permanent.
Clean tarnished silverware gently first, and save a tarnish remover for silverware for film a soft wipe won't lift. Hollow-handled knives and forks deserve a lighter touch, so keep the pressure off the handle. Finish with a soft microfiber cloth, and if the film won't budge, stop and call a pro rather than scrubbing harder.
Before you start
What dishes & mugs can take
Safe to use1
- Water
Use with care7
- Hot water
- Soaking
- Chlorine bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
- Heat, once the stain is out
6 items
What you'll need
Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.
- Soft cotton clothsThey wipe and buff without scratching the surface. (opens Amazon)
- 90% denatured alcohol with no added color or fragranceIt lifts light tarnish gently and is the first treatment in the steps. (opens Amazon)
- Mild soapThey clean the piece by hand without harsh abrasives. (opens Amazon)
- A soft cloth (opens Amazon)
- Acid-free tissue and sealed polyethylene bagsThey slow tarnish from coming back once the piece is clean.
- Precipitated calcium carbonate in denatured alcoholIt is for heavy tarnish on solid pieces only, so keep it on hand only if the lighter steps fail. (opens Amazon)
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Identify the metal and coating
Look for a hallmark or stamp that says sterling or silver plate, and check the piece for gilding, enamel or an intended patina. A plated piece has a thin silver layer over another metal, so it needs gentler handling than solid silver. If the piece has a patina or gilding, stop here and leave those areas alone.
Tip. A jeweler's loupe or magnifier helps you read small hallmarks on the backs of spoons and handles.
Careful. Removing plating lowers the value of a piece permanently.
Step 2 of 6
Test a hidden spot first
Choose a small, inconspicuous area, such as the underside of a handle or the inside of a spoon bowl. Apply the alcohol to that spot and check for dulling, color change or a rough feel. Only go on if the spot looks unchanged.
Step 3 of 63 to 5 minutes
Wipe light tarnish with alcohol
Dampen a soft cotton cloth with 90% denatured alcohol that has no added color or fragrance. Rub the tarnished areas gently, switching to a clean part of the cotton as it darkens.
If a spot won't lift, let the cotton rest on it for 3 to 5 minutes per the product label, then wipe again. Light tarnish often comes off this way and needs nothing more.
Tip. Work in short strokes so you can see when the black residue stops coming off.
Careful. Removing tarnish always takes some metal with it, so stop once the piece looks clean.
Step 4 of 6
Wash by hand in mild soap
Wash the piece in warm water with mild soap, using only a soft cloth. Rinse thoroughly after any cleaner, including the soap.
Tip. Wipe hollow handles and wood or ivory parts with a damp cloth instead of rinsing them under the tap.
Careful. Keep water out of hollow handles and composite pieces with wood or ivory parts.
Step 5 of 6
Dry and buff each piece
Dry every piece completely with a soft cloth, paying attention to joins, engraving and the base of the handle where water collects. Buff gently in one direction to bring back the shine.
Step 6 of 6
Store to slow tarnish
Wrap clean, dry pieces in acid-free tissue and seal them in polyethylene bags. A tarnish-inhibiting cloth can be used instead of the tissue if you prefer.
Careful. Avoid chlorine-processed gloves; they tarnish silver.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for tarnish on dishes & mugs
Look for a silver polish without ammonia or harsh abrasives, and test it on a hidden spot before using it. Use it sparingly on solid pieces with no patina, gilding or plating.
Amazon Basics Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
e-cloth General Purpose Cloth
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on dishes & mugs, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
See what to do for what you're seeing →Heavy buildup usually takes more than one round.
Heavy or long-standing buildup →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
The black should transfer onto the cotton with each pass, and each pass should bring up less than the one before. Once the cloth stays clean and the metal looks even in good light, you can stop. A dark patch that won't shift after a few clean passes is set-in tarnish, not a reason to scrub harder.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your dishes & mugs
Sterling silver flatware
Sterling is solid silver, so the alcohol wipe and the mild wash apply directly. Heavy tarnish in the crevices of a pattern is the case for the set-in options, used sparingly.
After any polishing, rinse the piece and dry it completely before you put it away. Check the hallmark again if the metal looks thinner than expected.
Silver-plated flatware
Plating is a thin silver layer over another metal, and rubbing too hard can wear it through. Stick to the alcohol wipe and the gentle wash, and skip the calcium carbonate paste and dips.
If the base metal shows through, stop cleaning that area and keep the piece dry.
Knives and forks with hollow handles
Clean the blade or tines with the alcohol cloth as usual. Wipe the handle only, using a damp cloth, and dry it straight away.
If the handle has wood, bone or ivory inlays, use a barely damp cloth and keep the piece out of standing water.
Antique pieces with patina
Check whether the dark finish is an intended patina before you clean anything. If it is, wipe loose dust off with a dry cotton cloth and stop there.
If the bright metal on raised parts is tarnished but the dark finish is original, a light alcohol wipe on those spots only is the safer next step.
Heavy or long-standing buildup
Old tarnish that has built up for years often needs more than an alcohol wipe. On solid silver without patina, polish the area with precipitated calcium carbonate in denatured alcohol on cotton, changing the cotton often so you don't spread the dark residue around. Rinse the area with alcohol and buff it dry afterward.
Tarnish that has settled into the crevices of a pattern may need a chemical dip, applied locally and as little as possible to avoid pitting. Skip the dip on hollow or composite pieces, and rinse the piece thoroughly once it's done.
If the tarnish is still there after both treatments, stop. Each extra round takes more metal, and a professional can judge whether the piece can take further work.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on tarnish on dishes & mugs?
Most kitchen remedies don't belong on silverware. The only ones that fit are the alcohol wipe and the mild wash described in the steps above.
Works1Skip5
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't polish off a patina or gilding
An intended patina is a thin, fairly stable layer that polishing destroys, and gilding is lost the same way. Removing either takes away the original finish for good. If you aren't sure whether the dark finish is original, leave the piece alone and ask a professional.
Don't use a multi-purpose metal polish on silver
Multi-purpose metal polishes are made for many metals and can remove more silver than the tarnish itself. Use the alcohol wipe and the mild wash from the steps instead. Polishes containing ammonia or harsh abrasives don't belong on valued pieces either.
Don't dunk a whole set in a dip
Chemical dips can pit silver and strip detail from handles and engravings if the whole piece sits in them. Apply any dip locally and for as short a time as you can, then rinse it off thoroughly.
Don't let water into a hollow handle
Water trapped inside a hollow handle is hard to dry out, and it can harm the wood or ivory parts on composite pieces. Keep these pieces out of soaks and wipe the handle dry with the corner of a cloth.
Don't keep rubbing with one soiled pad
Once the cotton turns black, it just moves tarnish around and grinds the residue into the surface. Swap in a clean piece of cotton often, and don't press harder when it stops coming up dark.
Troubleshooting
If the stain is still there
Pick what you're seeing:
The tarnish comes back within weeks
Wrap the piece in acid-free tissue inside sealed polyethylene bags, or keep it in a tarnish-inhibiting cloth. A thin coat of microcrystalline wax is another option. Tarnish is caused by sulphur compounds in the air, so blocking the air slows it down.
The alcohol wipe left most of the dark layer behind
Treat it as heavy tarnish: polish with precipitated calcium carbonate in denatured alcohol on cotton, changing the cotton often, then rinse with alcohol and buff dry. Chemical dips should be applied locally and as little as possible to avoid pitting, then rinsed.
You can't tell whether the dark layer is tarnish or patina
Stop and don't polish. A patina may be an intentional original finish, and removing it lowers the value permanently. Get advice before any abrasive or polish touches the piece.
The piece has a hollow handle or wood or ivory parts
Keep water out of it. Wash the rest with mild soap and warm water and a soft cloth, and don't immerse composite objects or hollow pieces in water or dips.
When to call a professional
Take the piece to a silversmith or restorer if it's a valued antique, if the plating looks worn through, or if the tarnish has built into a heavy, uneven layer. Tell them what you've already tried, including any alcohol or dip, and ask them to confirm whether there's a patina before anything gets polished.
Questions
How Do You Clean Tarnished Silverware?
Start by checking for plating, gilding or patina, then test a hidden spot. Wipe light tarnish with a cotton cloth dampened with 90% denatured alcohol, then wash in warm water with mild soap, rinse, and dry fully.
Is there a tarnish remover for silverware?
Yes, a silver-specific polish or a chemical dip can remove heavier tarnish, but both take some metal with them. Choose a product without ammonia or harsh abrasives, test it on a hidden spot, and use the least that does the job.
Why does silver tarnish?
Silver tarnishes when sulfur compounds such as hydrogen sulfide in the air react with the metal to form black silver sulfide. Storing pieces dry and wrapped slows the process down.
Should I clean the patina off antique silver?
Usually not. An intended patina is a thin, fairly stable layer, often brown, gray or black, and polishing destroys it. If you're not sure whether the dark finish is original, ask a professional before cleaning.
Can I soak tarnished silver to clean it?
Not if it has hollow handles or wood, ivory or composite parts. Solid pieces can get a chemical dip for heavy tarnish, but it should be applied locally and as little as possible to avoid pitting, then rinsed well.
How do I stop silver from tarnishing again?
Wrap clean, dry pieces in acid-free tissue inside sealed polyethylene bags, or keep them with a tarnish-inhibiting cloth. A thin microcrystalline wax coat is another option for pieces you use rarely.
Tarnish on other materials
Other stains on dishes & mugs
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.