First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Lift the liquid with a clean white cloth.
- Rinse the spot in cold water.
- Check the care label before you start.
A stain on underwear often goes unnoticed until the item has been through the dryer, and heat is what sets it for good. Fresh marks come out much more readily than old ones, and dried protein stains need scraping before any soak. Underwear can take a cold soak, so start there and move on only if the mark stays.
A stain remover for underwear works best when you apply it to the small area only, not the whole item. Old stains and yellowed bras often need a few rounds, so don't give up after one wash. If a stain on underwear still shows after that, stop and call a professional cleaner rather than scrubbing harder.
Before you start
What this material can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Soaking
- Enzyme cleaners
Use with care6
- Hot water
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid1
- Heat, once the stain is out
8 items
What you'll need
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- Clean white cloth or paper towelLifts liquid without transferring dye. (opens Amazon)
- Dull knifeScrapes off solids without cutting the fabric.
- Liquid laundry detergentBreaks down the stain in the detergent treatment and the wash. (opens Amazon)
- Enzyme laundry presoakWorks overnight on protein stains such as blood and grass. (opens Amazon)
- Pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solventHandles stains that stay after the wash. (opens Amazon)
- All-fabric (oxygen) bleachThe gentler bleach choice for colorfast items. (opens Amazon)
- Rust remover (only if you suspect rust)Must go on before any bleach. (opens Amazon)
- Chlorine bleach (optional, last step)Only for colorfast items whose label allows it. (opens Amazon)
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7 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 7
Blot and scrape off the excess
Press the spot with a clean white cloth or paper towel to lift any liquid, and do not rub. Use a dull knife to gently scrape off any solids, working from the outside of the stain toward the center.
Tip. Switch to a fresh section of towel each time so you do not spread the stain.
Careful. Colored cloths and sponges can bleed dye into the fabric.
Step 2 of 7
Check the label and test first
Check the care label before anything else. If it says dry-clean only, don't go further and take the item to a cleaner.
If not, try each product on a hidden seam or hem first, before it goes near the stain. Did that spot change color or look damaged? Then don't use that product on the stain.
Tip. A seam or hem is the best spot to test, since any change will show there first.
Step 3 of 730 minutes
Soak in cold water
Submerge the item in cold water for about 30 minutes so the stain loosens before anything else touches it. Cold water is the safe starting point for any stain you cannot identify.
Tip. Use enough cold water to cover the stain fully.
Careful. Hot water can set protein stains such as milk, egg or blood when the stain is unknown.
Step 4 of 730 minutes
Treat with detergent, then wash
Massage a bit of liquid laundry detergent into the stain and give it about 30 minutes. Rinse it off.
Then run the item through a wash with liquid detergent, in lukewarm water or in hot if the care label says it's fine. Air-dry it.
Tip. Work the detergent in from both sides of the fabric, especially on thick seams.
Step 5 of 7
Overnight enzyme presoak if needed
If a mark remains after the wash, soak the item overnight in an enzyme laundry presoak. Enzymes break down protein stains such as blood and grass, so the overnight soak is worth the wait. Rinse it in the morning and wash again with liquid detergent.
Step 6 of 7
Use a pretreatment or solvent
Still there? Flip the fabric and work from the wrong side with a pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solvent.
Dab it, don't rub. Follow with an all-fabric (oxygen) bleach, but only if it passed your colorfastness test. If rust is a possibility, use a rust remover first, before any bleach.
Tip. Put a clean towel behind the spot so the product does not spread through the fabric.
Step 7 of 7
Chlorine bleach as the final step
Only if the item is colorfast to chlorine and the label allows it, use a dilute chlorine bleach solution, following the package directions. Make sure everything else is fully rinsed out first, and never use bleach at full strength.
Careful. Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia or other removers, since that makes toxic fumes.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best stain removers for underwear
Look for a liquid laundry detergent, an enzyme laundry presoak and an all-fabric (oxygen) bleach, and keep a pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solvent on hand for stubborn spots.
Shout Triple-Acting Laundry Stain Remover
Puracy Laundry Stain Remover
Clorox 2 Laundry Stain Remover and Color Booster Powder, 49.2 Ounces
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on underwear, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light before using any heat. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →Know the stain? Use its own guide
Every stain on underwear
No match. Try the main search for anything else.
How to tell it's working
Check the spot in good light once the wash is done, before the item goes anywhere near heat. If it is lighter, the treatment is working, so keep going with the same approach until it is gone.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your underwear
Bras
Bras follow the same order, but the bleach choice changes. Many bras contain spandex, and chlorine bleach is off-limits on spandex, so skip it entirely. Use the all-fabric (oxygen) bleach only after a colorfastness test on a hidden band.
Work the detergent into the cups and band from the inside, and avoid wringing them out. Let them air-dry flat so the shape holds.
Everyday underwear
Prevention on underwear mostly comes down to speed, since fresh stains are much easier to remove than old ones. Blot a new spot as soon as you notice it, and get the item into cold water the same day instead of the hamper.
The cold soak is the safe first move for any spot you cannot identify, so you do not need to guess. Keep a clean white cloth handy for blotting, since it is the easiest way to lift a spill before it spreads.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old stains are tougher because they've had time to set, so soak longer than you would for a fresh spill. Scrape off crusty bits with a dull knife.
Next, soak the item in cold water with liquid detergent or an enzyme presoak. Coffee, tea or fruit juice stains (tannin) that have aged may call for a fabric-safe bleach.
For dried milk, egg or blood, go with a long enzyme presoak. Enzymes digest protein, which is why it works. Brush off the dried residue first, so the soak reaches the fabric, and give it the whole night instead of a quick rinse.
If you can still see it after the wash, just repeat. Don't jump to something stronger yet, because several rounds often lift what one can't. And be honest with yourself: dried paint and aluminum and zinc antiperspirant build-up may not budge fully, so a faint mark on an old stain can be the best result.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on underwear?
Many household remedies are unnecessary for underwear, and some can damage the fabric. Detergent, an enzyme presoak and oxygen bleach already do the work, so most remedies add nothing.
Works1Skip5
Chemical safety
Never mix these
Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.
Chlorine bleach + Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)
Both makers advise against combining them: OxiClean says not to mix it with chlorine bleach, and Clorox says the two bleaches cancel each other out.
If they mix by accident: Don't use the mixture; ventilate the room and avoid breathing fumes or touching it; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 for disposal advice or if anyone feels unwell.
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't dry or iron the item before the stain is gone
Heat sets stains, and a set stain may become impossible to remove. Let the item air-dry, and keep it away from the iron until you can no longer see any trace of the stain.
Don't rub the stain with bar soap
Soap sets many stains, which makes them far harder to remove later. Reach for liquid laundry detergent instead.
Don't use chlorine bleach on wool, silk or spandex
Chlorine bleach can damage wool, silk, mohair, leather and spandex. It also makes rust stains more intense or permanent, so check the fiber on the label first.
Don't leave pretreatments on too long
Don't leave a pretreatment on longer than the label says for liquids and aerosols. With gels on bright or fluorescent items, a few minutes is the most you should allow. Unstable dyes can fade or change color if the product stays on too long.
When to call a professional
Big stain, bulky item, or delicate fabric? Hand it to a professional cleaner, even if the underwear is washable. Mention the fiber content and the stain type when you drop it off, and they can choose the right treatment.
Questions
Which stain remover works on underwear?
A liquid laundry detergent worked into the stain handles most spots, and it is the one product you will use in nearly every treatment. If the stain stays, an enzyme laundry presoak overnight is the next step, followed by a pretreatment spray or solvent.
Can I whiten yellowed underwear?
Yes, with an all-fabric (oxygen) bleach, but only after a colorfastness test on a hidden seam. Chlorine bleach is a last resort, and only for items that are colorfast and whose care label allows it.
What if underwear was washed and dried with the stain still on it?
It can still come out, though it takes longer than a fresh spot. Soak it in cold water with a liquid detergent or an enzyme presoak overnight, then wash again and repeat if the stain remains.
Can I use bleach on colored underwear?
Only the all-fabric (oxygen) bleach, and only after it passes a colorfastness test on a hidden spot. Chlorine bleach stays off colored items unless they are colorfast and the label allows it.
How long can I wait before treating a stain?
There is no exact cutoff, but a fresh stain comes out far more easily than an old one. Treat it the same day if you can, since the longer it sits the more work it takes.
Do I need a presoak for every stain?
No. Only use an enzyme presoak if the stain is still there after the detergent treatment. A fresh stain often comes out with the cold soak and detergent alone.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.