Prep first
Before you start
- Read the care label for washing, drying and bleach instructions before anything else.
- Check the bleach wording: 'non-chlorine bleach only' or 'no bleach' means chlorine bleach would harm the item.
- Test any pretreatment on a hidden seam or hem, and check the color after it dries, since fabric looks darker when wet.
- Shake out loose dirt and dust first.
The thick filling in a comforter or duvet takes much longer to dry than the fabric around it, and damp filling can grow mold. Some bedding is dry clean only, so the care label decides what you can do.
Washing a comforter at home or cleaning blankets in the washing machine follows the same cool, gentle method as bed sheets. Sheets and pillowcases need washing about weekly, while a duvet insert can go a season between washes if it stays inside its cover. Fleece, sherpa and faux fur need a few extra steps, and down inserts need extra care when drying.
Before you start
What blankets, comforters & sheets can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Soaking
- Enzyme cleaners
Use with care6
- Hot water
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid1
- Heat (dryer, iron, hot air)
7 items
What you'll need
Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.
- Mild liquid laundry detergentUsed in small amounts, since too much leaves buildup and a mildew smell. (opens Amazon)
- Clean white clothFor blotting stains without rubbing them in. (opens Amazon)
- Cold water basin or sinkFor soaking an unknown stain in cold water first. (opens Amazon)
- Front-loading washing machine, XL if possibleComforters and duvets need room to move, and smaller machines tangle them.
- Clothes dryerUsed on low heat, and only once every stain is gone.
- Flat or hanging space with good airflowFor the last part of drying a comforter, and for faux fur, which dries flat or hanging.
- Bright lightShows clumps in down or down-alternative filling before you put it away.
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7 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 7
Check the care label first
Find the permanent care label, usually at the neckline or in a side seam, and follow what it says about machine washing, hand washing or dry cleaning. If it says dry clean only, take the item to a professional and stop there. If the label names a water temperature, use that; if it does not, cool water is the safe default.
Tip. Some bedding is dry clean only, so check even if the item looks like an ordinary sheet.
Step 2 of 7
Pretreat any stains
Blot each stain with a clean white cloth instead of rubbing it, and use that stain's own method if you know what it is. If the stain is unknown, soak the spot in cold water first, since hot water can set protein stains such as blood, milk and egg.
Careful. Never rub a fresh stain with bar soap, because soap sets many stains.
Step 3 of 7
Measure the detergent
Use mild liquid detergent, less than the label calls for on sheets and about a third of the usual amount for duvets and comforters. Add it to the drum first and let it dissolve before you load the bedding, and keep similar colors and fabrics together.
Tip. Too much detergent leaves buildup and a mildew smell, so measure it rather than guessing.
Step 4 of 7
Wash on the delicate cycle
Choose cool water and the delicate cycle, since hot water degrades fibers and shrinks them. Load the bedding loosely so it can move freely, and do not overload the washer. Use warm water only when the label specifically asks for it.
Tip. If the item is still soaked at the end of the wash, run a spin-only cycle.
Step 5 of 7
Run the rinse twice
Run the rinse cycle twice to flush out the detergent, which can otherwise leave buildup and odor. If suds are still visible at the end, run one more rinse.
Step 6 of 7
Dry on low heat
Tumble sheets and bedding on low, and fill the dryer only halfway so sheets do not twist. Take sheets out slightly damp to smooth wrinkles, and remove the item promptly to avoid over-drying. Once a comforter is 50% to 75% dry, spread it out and air dry the rest in a ventilated space.
Tip. Spread a comforter loosely in the dryer so the filling dries evenly.
Careful. Heat sets stains, so make sure every stain is gone before the dryer, because a set stain may become impossible to remove.
Step 7 of 7
Confirm it is fully dry
Filling must dry completely to prevent mold, so feel the thickest parts of a comforter or duvet before you put it away. If any part still feels damp, keep drying it in a ventilated space rather than storing it.
Tip. For down or down-alternative inserts, hold the filling up to a light to check for clumps.
What makes the job easier
Best products for cleaning blankets, comforters & sheets
Choose a mild liquid laundry detergent, since that is the product this method is built around. Measure it carefully, because less is usually enough.
Clorox 2 Laundry Stain Remover and Color Booster Powder, 49.2 Ounces
How we picked these: each product is made for cleaning blankets, comforters & sheets, its maker doesn't warn against using it on blankets, comforters & sheets, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely before you use it again.
How to tell it's really done →Spots that survive a deep clean are usually stains, and each stain has its own method.
Find the guide for your stain →Heavy grime or a lingering smell usually needs a second round once it's fully dry.
See what to do for what you're seeing →When to call a professional →How to tell it's done
The item is clean when every stain is gone and there is no soap residue or mildew smell. It is fully dry when the thickest filling feels dry all the way through with no clumps or damp spots, and if any part is still damp, keep drying it in a ventilated space.
Treat stains with their own method
Got a stain on it?
A deep clean lifts everyday dirt, but most stains need their own method. Pick yours:
What changes for yours
Adjust for your bedding
Comforters and duvets
Take the cover off the insert before washing it. Cold is the gentlest choice and warm sanitizes better, so use cold unless the label allows warm.
Comforters can take much longer to dry than sheets, so plan for that and keep the filling spread out. If a comforter is still soaked after washing, run a spin-only cycle, and follow the product's own care instructions where they differ.
Down and down-alternative inserts
Spot treat stains first by pulling the cover away from the filling, dampening the spot and working in a little detergent until it foams. Then wash the insert alone in an XL front-loader on the delicate cycle, with about a third of the usual detergent and the rinse run twice.
Both down and down-alternative inserts are machine washable; it is the cover material that can make a duvet dry clean only. Tumble dry on the lowest setting, removing the insert every half hour to break up clumps, and expect drying to take up to five or six hours.
Duvet covers
Wash the cover separately from the insert, and much more often, about weekly. Use the cool, delicate-cycle method with the rinse run twice.
Keep the insert inside its cover so it needs washing only about once a season. If the cover is dry clean only, have a professional clean it.
Faux fur and plush blankets
Shake the blanket out first to loosen dust and particles, then wash it alone in a large-capacity washer so it can move freely. Use cold water on the gentle or delicate cycle, never hot water, with no bleach or fabric softener.
Air dry it flat or hanging, then tumble on the no-heat air setting to restore fluffiness. Do not iron or dry-clean a faux fur or plush blanket, and check the label on any fleece or sherpa blanket, since the label decides what it can take.
Linen sheets
Warm water is allowed on linen sheets, but cool water is recommended, especially for percale and sateen. Use cool water unless the label asks for warm.
If you rinse out soap residue with vinegar, dilute it 2 parts water to 1 part vinegar, since full strength can permanently damage linen. Dry linen on low and take it out slightly damp to smooth wrinkles.
White sheets
Dingy white sheets are often the result of detergent buildup, so measure detergent carefully and run the rinse twice. Spot clean any marks rather than bleaching the whole sheet.
Chlorine bleach is only for colorfast items whose label allows it, and only after a test on a hidden seam. Sheets are best kept clean with the routine described here rather than with bleach.
Between deep cleans
How often to clean it
Wash sheets, pillowcases and duvet covers weekly. Clean a duvet insert every two or three months, or about once a season if it stays inside its cover. Wash pillows and mattress pads every three to six months, and decorative layers like quilts and throws about every three months.
Between washes, spot clean stains rather than bleaching them, and keep detergent use light so no buildup forms. Keep a comforter or duvet insert in its cover, since that is what keeps it from needing frequent washing.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work for cleaning blankets, comforters & sheets?
Few household remedies beat mild detergent, cool water and a full rinse for bedding. Here is how each common option fits, and which ones bedding should avoid.
Helps1Skip3Avoid3
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use too much detergent
Extra detergent builds up in the fibers and leaves a mildew smell. Measure it carefully and run the rinse twice.
Don't overload the washer or dryer
Bedding packed in too tightly cannot move freely, so it does not clean or dry evenly. Load it loosely, and fill the dryer only halfway for sheets so they do not twist.
Don't rely on vinegar to set colors
Vinegar used after dyeing offers no protection, so new colors can still bleed. Use vinegar only for soap residue, and never at full strength on cotton or linen.
Don't mix stain removers
Ammonia and chlorine bleach release toxic fumes when mixed, so never combine them. Rinse thoroughly between one remover and the next.
Don't leave pretreatments on too long
Liquid and aerosol pretreatments should come off within the time the label gives, and gels on bright items should not stay on more than a few minutes. Unstable dyes can change color or fade if a product sits too long.
Troubleshooting
If it still isn't clean
Pick what you're seeing:
Sheets smell musty or look dingy
Too much detergent leaves buildup and a mildew smell, so wash again with less detergent and a second rinse. Make sure the bedding is fully dry before you store it, since damp filling can grow mold.
A down insert feels lumpy after drying
Clumps mean the filling is not fully dry, so keep drying it on the lowest setting and remove it every half hour to break them up. Check it against a light before you use it.
A stain shows up again after drying
Heat set the stain, so treat it again with that stain's own method and dry only once the spot is gone. Do not use chlorine bleach unless the label allows it and the fabric passes a test.
When to call a professional
Take dry-clean only items to a professional promptly, and tell them the fiber content and the stain. Take even washable bedding to a cleaner if the stain covers a large area, the item is bulky, or the fabric is fragile. Suede, leather and fur trim go to a cleaner that specializes in leather or fur.
Questions
Do sheets, duvets and comforters need dry cleaning?
Many sheets, duvets and comforters can be machine washed, but some bedding is dry clean only, so check the care label first. If it is, take it to a professional promptly and tell them the fiber content and any stain.
Can I wash a blanket in a top-loading washer?
A top-loader can work for a blanket, but an XL front-loader is safer. Smaller machines tangle duvets and comforters, and wet bedding can throw a top-loader off balance, so use the largest machine you have and do not overload it.
Why are there odd-colored spots on my sheets?
Odd-colored marks on sheets, pillowcases and towels are often benzoyl peroxide from acne products, which bleaches dye permanently. Because the dye is already gone, the color may not come back, so check the label before trying anything stronger.
Can I wash bed sheets with my regular clothes?
It is better to wash bedding with other bedding, keeping similar colors and fabrics together. Bedding also needs room to move, so do not add clothes to fill the drum.
What should I do if a stain is still there after washing?
Treat it again with that stain's own method before drying, since heat from the dryer or an iron sets stains. If you are not sure what the stain is, soak the spot in cold water first.
Can I air dry a comforter instead of using a dryer?
Yes, for the last part of drying: tumble on low until it is 50% to 75% dry, then air dry the rest in a ventilated space. Faux fur and plush blankets should air dry flat or hanging, then tumble on the no-heat air setting to restore fluffiness.
Methods, care labels and related guides
Good to know
More cleaning guides
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.