Prep first
Before you start
- Check the care label for the fiber and any cleaning limits, since wool and washable rugs need their own method.
- Shake the rug outdoors and vacuum both sides, because loose grit works deeper into the pile once it gets wet.
- Test any cleaner on a hidden corner before you use it on a visible stain.
- Clear the area around the rug and find a flat, airy spot where it can dry.
An area rug can look sturdy and still be damaged by the wrong cleaner or too much water. Its fibers, backing and fringe each react differently to moisture and heat. Before anything wet touches it, check the care label and the fiber, since wool and washable rugs need their own gentler approach.
Start by shaking the rug outdoors and vacuuming both sides, because loose grit grinds into the pile once it gets wet. Spot-test any cleaner on a hidden corner, then work a mild dish soap solution into stains and blot until they lift. Let the rug dry flat and fully, since a rug that dries well looks better and lasts longer.
Before you start
What rugs can take
Use with care6
- Water
- Hot water
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Heat (dryer, iron, hot air)
Avoid3
- Soaking
- Chlorine bleach
- Scrubbing and abrasives
6 items
What you'll need
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- Vacuum with a rotating brush or beater barLifts embedded dirt from most rugs; use suction only for shag.
- Mild liquid dish soapThe cleaner for spot work, used only in a weak solution. (opens Amazon)
- Clean white clothsShow what's lifting out of the rug and keep color from transferring back. (opens Amazon)
- Spray or misting bottleLets you apply a small amount of solution instead of soaking the rug. (opens Amazon)
- Clothesline or sturdy railingLets you beat the rug from both sides outdoors.
- Fan or floor dryerSpeeds drying so the rug isn't left damp. (opens Amazon)
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7 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 7
Shake and beat the rug outdoors
Take the rug outside and shake it hard, then hang it over a clothesline and beat it from both sides. Work across the whole surface so loose dirt and grit fall out of the pile.
Tip. Shake out the fringe too, since grit collects there.
Step 2 of 7
Vacuum both sides thoroughly
Vacuum the top, then turn the rug over and vacuum the back, working from the center toward the fringe. Lift the edge to vacuum beneath it, using gentle suction at the fringe.
Tip. Use a rotating brush or beater bar for most rugs, and save suction-only for shag.
Careful. Don't run a robot vacuum over a rug; it can fray or snag the edges.
Step 3 of 7
Test the cleaner on a hidden spot
Dampen a white cloth with a little of the cleaning solution and dab a corner or a spot under furniture. Check the cloth and the rug for color loss or dye transfer before you clean any visible stain.
Tip. Pretest any other product on a scrap or hidden area too.
Step 4 of 7
Spot-clean stains with dish soap
Mix a quarter teaspoon of liquid dish soap into a cup of lukewarm water, and dampen a clean white cloth with it. Work from the outside of each stain toward the center, blotting and moving to a fresh section of cloth as it picks up color. Apply the solution to the cloth, never straight onto the rug, and use small amounts so the rug doesn't get soaked.
Tip. Work in small sections so the rug never gets wet all over.
Careful. Don't scrub or brush the spot; it can damage fibers, spread the stain, and distort the pile.
Step 5 of 7
Rinse out the soap
Dampen a clean white cloth with plain water and blot the area until no soap comes up. Finish with a dry cloth, blotting as dry as you can get it.
Tip. Use plain water in small amounts, since it's a recommended rinse.
Careful. Don't skip the rinse; soap left in the pile can make the spot dirty again quickly.
Step 6 of 7
Dry the rug flat
Lay the rug flat, pile side up, in a room with good airflow, and run a fan or floor dryer over it if you have one. Flip it once the top is dry so the back dries fully too.
Tip. Press a dry towel onto the back to draw out moisture.
Careful. Don't put the rug back down while the underside is still damp; check the back first.
Step 7 of 7
Vacuum and set the rug back
When the rug is completely dry, vacuum both sides again to lift loose fibers and smooth the pile and fringe. Then lay it back in place and let it sit flat before walking on it.
What makes the job easier
Best products for cleaning rugs
Choose a mild liquid dish soap and a supply of clean white cloths. For washable rugs, use a mild detergent with no bleach, oxygen brighteners or fabric softener, and skip automatic dishwasher detergent, which can destroy dyes.
Rug Doctor Mighty Pro X3 Carpet Cleaner
BISSELL Little Green Portable Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
Zep Advanced Oxy Carpet & Upholstery Stain Remover
How we picked these: each product is made for cleaning rugs, its maker doesn't warn against using it on rugs, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely before you use it again.
How to tell it's really done →Spots that survive a deep clean are usually stains, and each stain has its own method.
Find the guide for your stain →Heavy grime or a lingering smell usually needs a second round once it's fully dry.
See what to do for what you're seeing →When to call a professional →How to tell it's done
The rug is clean when the stain stops transferring to the white cloth and the fabric no longer feels sticky. It's dry when the back feels dry all the way through, not just the top. If it's still damp, keep it flat in an airy spot and blot again.
Treat stains with their own method
Got a stain on it?
A deep clean lifts everyday dirt, but most stains need their own method. Pick yours:
What changes for yours
Adjust for your type of rug
Washable and flatwoven rugs
If the label says washable, wash the rug in the machine instead of spot cleaning it. Use cold water on the delicate cycle with a mild detergent that has no bleach, oxygen brighteners or fabric softener, and put the rug in design side out. Bath mats and bathroom rugs follow the same rules when they're washable.
Tumble dry on low heat or air-dry it, and wait until it's completely dry before putting it back. Small rugs such as 2x3, 3x5, 4x6 and runners take one dryer cycle of about 45 to 60 minutes, while 6x9, 8x10 and 8-foot round rugs take about 135 to 180 minutes. A jute rug that isn't labeled washable gets the spot steps only, with no soaking.
Wool rugs
Use the weaker dish soap solution with warm water, not hot, and vacuum on low suction with the beater bar off. Work in several directions and skip the fringe, then keep every cleaning pass light and blot rather than rub.
Air-dry the rug only, with no hair dryer or heater, and don't cover it while it's damp. Many wool rugs are not machine washable, so check the label before you think about the washer. Stubborn stains on wool are a job for a professional.
Shag and fluffy rugs
Use suction only on a shag rug, without a beater bar or rotating brush, since brushes can snag the long fibers. Vacuum slowly and lift the edges to reach underneath. Spot-clean with the same weak soap solution, working gently so the pile doesn't mat down.
Shake it outdoors first as with any rug, and let it dry fully before the final vacuum.
Large area rugs
A large rug is easier to beat over a clothesline outdoors than indoors, so move it outside before you shake it. Vacuum it indoors afterward and work the spot steps in sections, one area at a time.
Large washable rugs may need a commercial laundromat machine. Drying a rug this size can take up to three dryer cycles, so plan for a long drying day.
Rugs with fringe
Vacuum from the center toward the fringe with gentle suction, and lift the edge to reach what's beneath it. On a wool rug, skip the fringe entirely.
Give the fringe a second look once the rug is dry, since grit can collect there. Make sure the fringe is fully dry before the rug goes back down.
Persian, Oriental and Turkish rugs
Follow the maker's cleaning instructions for these rugs, and hire a professional for an heirloom piece instead of cleaning it yourself. If you clean one at home, stick to vacuuming and the light spot method, and keep the water to a minimum.
Pretest in a hidden corner first for any change in color.
Between deep cleans
How often to clean it
Vacuum the rug at least once a week, and more often in busy rooms or with pets. Use the rotating brush or beater bar for most rugs, and suction only for shag.
Rotate the rug every three to six months so it wears evenly. Have a professional deep clean it every 12 to 18 months, more often with heavy traffic or pets.
Keep mats at the door and remove shoes to stop grit at the source.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work for cleaning rugs?
Most rugs need only water, a mild dish soap and a vacuum, and several common household products can do real damage. Stick to those basics and keep every other household product off the rug.
Works1Helps2Skip1Avoid3
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use chlorine bleach
Chlorine bleach can cause the backing to separate and can discolor or dissolve the fibers. Use the spot steps for the stain instead.
Don't soak the rug
Too much liquid can soak through and leave the rug damp for much longer. Work in small amounts and blot often instead.
Don't use a strong cleaner
Avoid any cleaner with a pH of 10 or higher, and don't add extra dish soap for more cleaning power. Extra soap is harder to rinse out and leaves residue behind.
Don't pour solvent on the rug
Solvents can dissolve carpet materials and destroy the backing. Apply any solvent to a cloth only, and only after a hidden-spot test.
Troubleshooting
If it still isn't clean
Pick what you're seeing:
A stain comes back after drying
Moisture pulled up from below is bringing the stain back to the surface. Repeat the spot cleaning and blot away all the moisture, then dry the rug flat again.
The rug feels sticky or stiff
That's usually soap left in the pile. Rinse again with plain water, blot until no soap comes up, and dry the rug flat.
A mark is still visible after cleaning
On a colorfast rug, dampen the mark with 3% hydrogen peroxide using a medicine dropper, let it stand for about an hour, then blot it up. Pretest first, because peroxide is a bleach and can change dyes.
When to call a professional
Call a professional when a tested cleaner changes the rug's color, when an oily stain won't lift, or when water damage must be dried from both the front and back. Persistent pet stains and odors, and heirloom Oriental, Turkish and Persian rugs, also belong with a professional.
Questions
Can I clean a rug without moving it or using a vacuum?
You can spot-clean a rug where it lies, but a full clean means lifting it to vacuum beneath. Dab the stain with a white cloth dampened in the weak dish soap solution, blot, and rinse with plain water. Without a vacuum, shake and beat the rug outdoors instead, since that removes loose dirt first.
Can I use a rental carpet extractor on a rug?
A rental extractor is built for carpet, but it can work on a colorfast rug that lies flat, after vacuuming and pretreating stains. Make two wet passes, then two dry passes without the solution, overlapping cleaned areas by a few inches. Skip the machine on wool rugs, which need the air-dry method.
Is it safe to steam clean a rug?
No, skip steam on area rugs. If a label does not clearly allow heat, use the spot steps instead.
Can I wash an outdoor rug in the washing machine?
Only if it's labeled washable: wash it cold on the delicate cycle with no fabric softener. If it isn't, shake, vacuum and spot-clean it as you would any rug, then dry it flat in the open air.
How do I clean a faux fur or cowhide rug?
Check the care label first; this cleaning is for woven and washable rugs, not hide or faux fur. If there's no label, vacuum gently, test any liquid on a hidden spot, and ask a professional before wetting the pile.
How do I get rid of a rug smell?
Clean the rug with the steps here, then make sure it's completely dry and vacuum it, since a damp rug holds smell. Skip oxygen brighteners on washable rugs, and skip baking soda. Make sure the rug is completely dry before vacuuming, since a damp rug holds smell. If an odor lasts after a deep clean, a professional is the right next step.
Methods, care labels and related guides
Good to know
Odor guides
Still smells?
More cleaning guides
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.