Old stains feel hopeless, but many of them can still come out if you match the treatment to the stain. The main thing is patience: fresh stains are much easier to remove than old ones, and dried stains often need several rounds. Heat is the biggest risk, because the heat of drying sets the stain and makes it more permanent.
Each stain type has its own safe approach, from cold water to a solvent used with care. Knowing which one fits your stain saves time and protects the fabric. Start gently, and only move to a stronger method when the gentle one has done what it can.
7 steps
Step by step
- 1
Identify the stain type and pretest
Work out whether the stain is oily, waxy, protein, dye, tannin or a mix, because each one needs a different treatment. Before you apply any remover, test it on a hidden seam or inside a hem to check that the fabric stays colorfast.
- 2
Remove crust, wax and gum first
Scrape or brush off any crusted matter before you treat a dried stain. For waxy or gummy residue, apply ice to harden it, then crack or scrape off the excess.
- 3
Soak protein stains in cold water
Protein stains such as milk, egg or blood should soak in cold water with a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Hot water can cook the protein and set it between the fibers, so skip it at this stage. Aged stains may need to soak for several hours in an enzyme product.
- 4
Treat the oily part first
For oil-based stains, use a heavy-duty detergent with hot water, and repeat the treatment if the stain is not fully gone. For a combination stain, such as coffee with cream, always treat the greasy or oily part first. Do not start with the color step.
- 5
Use solvents and bleach with care
Work in a well-ventilated room away from open flame, pilot lights and sparks, and do not smoke. Dilute bleach before you use it, and never use gasoline, lighter fluid or carbon tetrachloride as a cleaning solvent.
- 6
Rinse between products and never mix them
Use one product at a time and rinse thoroughly between them. Never mix chlorine bleach and ammonia, since the resulting fumes are hazardous, and never combine chlorine bleach with lemon juice or vinegar.
- 7
Check before the dryer
Look at the spot in good light once the item is dry, because soft drinks and fruit juices can be invisible or difficult to see. Keep the item out of the dryer and away from the iron until the stain is gone, since heat makes a stain more permanent.
What to do after the dryer
The dryer is where many stains become permanent, because the heat of drying sets the stain. Check the item in good light before it goes near the dryer or iron.
Oil stains tend to reappear just when you think you have seen the last of them, so do not dry until they are gone. Oil that has been dryer-dried or ironed into synthetic or permanent-press fabric may be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to remove.
Dried protein stains may need brushing, a cold soak with detergent or an enzyme presoak, and several rounds of treatment. Dye-transfer stains also need treatment before drying, since dryer heat sets them.
White clothes
Fresh stains come out of white clothes much more easily than old ones, so act as soon as you can. For very old stains, a bleach treatment may need to be repeated, but always dilute bleach first, because undiluted bleach can weaken fabric until it tears.
Do not over-soak or exceed the recommended amount of bleach, since misuse can cause yellow stains that cannot be removed. Old tannin stains such as coffee, tea or fruit juice may need bleaching, as long as the bleach is safe for the fabric.
Whites that picked up dye from other items can be treated with a color remover, and some stains cannot be removed at all. Do not use chlorine bleach on rust, because it makes rust stains more intense or permanent.
Colored clothes
Colored clothes need more caution, because bleaching damage to colored garments is irreversible. Do not use chlorine bleach on any item that is not colorfast, and do not bleach silk, wool or spandex at all.
Do not keep bleaching past 15 minutes, because further bleaching only weakens the fabric. If a dye stain is not removed in 15 minutes, it cannot be removed by bleaching, and you should bleach the whole garment rather than only the spot.
Never rub a fresh stain with bar soap, since soap sets many stains. Dye stains often need the soak repeated, and some stains, such as dried paint, cannot be removed.
How to treat each stain type
For set-in wax, gum or resin, harden the residue first and then work with a solvent. Cornell applies drycleaning solvent under a pad, then uses a dry spotter of 1 part coconut or mineral oil to 8 parts dry cleaning solvent, tamping every 5 minutes. Do not use gasoline or lighter fluid as a solvent, and work in a ventilated room away from flame and sparks.
Oil and grease stains respond to heavy-duty detergent with hot water. For old or oxidized oils, lubricate the spot with lard or mineral oil, tamp it with a brush or spoon, then flush with drycleaning solvent, alternating until the stain is gone. Do not use unsaturated fats or oils as lubricants, since they can age and form yellow stains.
Tannin stains from tea, coffee or fruit come out best with detergent, never soap. Soap will make a tannin stain permanent or at least harder to remove, so check the detergent's ingredient list for soap. Old tannin stains may need bleaching, as long as the bleach is safe for the fabric.
Dye stains are very difficult to remove, and felt-tip permanent ink may not come out at all. Some inks may be impossible to remove, and laundering may actually set the ink.
Mud and dirt should not get hot water first, because mud is treated as a protein stain. Repeat the detergent-paste treatment, then presoak for at least 30 minutes with color-safe bleach added. Never dry a stained garment in the dryer.
Nail polish, lacquer and plastic glues can need acetone or amyl acetate after a solvent treatment. Do not use acetone or nail polish remover on acetate or triacetate, because acetate dissolves. For super glue, soak in cool water, tamp with a brush or spoon, and repeat until the glue softens and dissolves.
Rust stains may be very difficult to remove, so repeat the rust remover or salt-and-lemon treatment. Do not use chlorine bleach on rust, and never combine the lemon-juice method with chlorine bleach. Pretest any rust remover on a hidden area first.
Silk, wool and other delicates
Silk, wool, cashmere and down need the gentlest approach. Do not rub or brush a stain, because rubbing damages silk, and agitation in water makes wool felt and shrink.
Never use chlorine bleach on wool or silk, and never use biological enzyme detergent on silk or wool. Check the label of any commercial stain remover, since some are not meant for wool, silk or dry-clean-only fabrics.
For dry-clean-only wool, tell the dry cleaner about the stain and any treatment you have tried. On old or heirloom textiles, a long-standing stain has probably weakened the fibers, and removing it may leave a hole, so it may be wiser to leave it.
What you can realistically expect
Old stains are harder to remove than fresh ones, and some will not respond at all. Procedures may need to be repeated several times, so a stubborn stain often takes more than one attempt.
Professional dry cleaners have skills and resources most people do not, so a valuable item is worth taking in. Felt-tip permanent ink may not come out, and nail polish may be impossible to remove.
Old urine stains are unlikely to come out at home, and mildew can leave fibers damaged beyond repair. Antiperspirant residues may make it impossible to restore the original color, so stop before you weaken the fabric further.
Questions
Can I get an old stain out of clothes that have already been dried?
Often it is possible, but it is harder. Dried protein stains may need brushing, a cold soak and several rounds of treatment. Heat from the dryer makes a stain more permanent, so check it carefully before drying again.
Why do my clothes have stains after washing?
Some stains are hard to see until the item dries, so check carefully. Drink stains such as soft drinks or fruit juices can be invisible or difficult to see, and heat from the dryer can set them.
How do I get old stains out of white shirts?
Start with cold water and a detergent or enzyme presoak if the stain is protein-based. Dilute any bleach before using it, and repeat the treatment only as needed. Undiluted bleach can weaken the fabric, so never use it at full strength.
Can I use bleach on colored clothes?
Only if the garment is colorfast, since bleaching damage to colored garments is irreversible. Do not bleach past 15 minutes, and never bleach silk, wool or spandex. Bleach the whole garment rather than only the spot.
What should I never mix when removing stains?
Never mix chlorine bleach and ammonia, because the resulting fumes are hazardous. Never combine chlorine bleach with lemon juice or vinegar either. Rinse thoroughly between any two removers.
Is hot water or bar soap ever right for a set-in stain?
Not as a first step for protein stains, because hot water can cook the protein and set it into the fibers. Avoid bar soap on tannin and fresh stains, since soap can make them permanent or harder to remove.
Related guides
Sources
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