Prep first
Before you start
- Blot gently rather than rubbing.
- Scrape off any solid wax or rubber with a dull knife.
- Check the care label before anything wet touches the fabric.
- Rinse the spot in cold water while you decide what to do next.
Fresh scuffs and crayon marks on clothes are much simpler to lift than old ones, so how long a mark has sat matters a lot. Dried-on or older marks need any crusted matter scraped or brushed off before liquid goes on. Check the care label first, since dry-clean-only items belong with a professional dry cleaner.
Crayon marks on white clothes often lift with a cold soak and a little detergent, so start there. Black rubber marks need the same gentle start, with a fabric stain remover as the step up if detergent fails. Smudges that have dried into wool or silk need a lighter touch, so test a hidden seam first.
Before you start
What clothes can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Soaking
- Enzyme cleaners
Use with care6
- Hot water
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid1
- Heat, once the stain is out
8 items
What you'll need
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- Clean white cloth or paper towelBlots the mark without transferring dye. (opens Amazon)
- Dull knifeLifts off wax or rubber solids without spreading them.
- Liquid laundry detergentWorks into the stain and handles the wash. (opens Amazon)
- Enzyme laundry presoakBreaks down protein stains for marks that remain after the wash. (opens Amazon)
- Pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solventUsed from the wrong side for stubborn marks. (opens Amazon)
- All-fabric (oxygen) bleachThe gentler bleach for stubborn marks, once it passes a colorfastness test. (opens Amazon)
- Rust removerOnly if you suspect rust, used before any bleach. (opens Amazon)
- Chlorine bleach (opens Amazon)
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7 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 7
Read the care label first
Read the care label first, since it decides how hard you can go. Test whatever you plan to use on a hidden seam or hem, and stop if the color changes or the fabric is damaged.
Step 2 of 7
Blot and scrape off solids
Start by blotting up the excess with a clean white cloth or paper towel. Press, don't rub.
Colored cloths and sponges can bleed dye onto the fabric. If there are solids, take a dull knife and gently scrape them off, moving from the edge of the mark toward the middle.
Tip. Work from the outside of the mark toward the center so it doesn't spread.
Step 3 of 730 minutes
Soak in cold water
Soak the whole item in cold water for about 30 minutes. This loosens the mark before you commit to any stronger product.
Careful. Keep it cold until you know the stain, since hot water can set protein stains such as milk, egg or blood.
Step 4 of 730 minutes
Work in detergent and wash
Rub a little liquid laundry detergent into the stain with your fingers. Let it sit for about 30 minutes and rinse. Then wash the item in liquid detergent, at whatever temperature the label allows, rinse it, and look at the spot before anything goes near heat or dries.
Step 5 of 7
Overnight enzyme presoak
If the mark is still there, soak the item overnight in an enzyme laundry presoak. Wash it again afterward and check the spot before it dries.
Step 6 of 7
Pretreat, then use oxygen bleach
Still seeing the mark? Turn the item over and dab a pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solvent on from the wrong side, using the spot technique.
After that, reach for an all-fabric (oxygen) bleach, but only one that passed a colorfastness test. Think it's rust? Use a rust remover before any bleach.
Careful. Leaving a pretreatment on longer than its label says can change unstable dyes, and you should ventilate the room when using a solvent.
Step 7 of 7
Chlorine bleach as the last resort
Save this for last, after everything's rinsed out. Mix a dilute chlorine bleach solution and follow the package directions.
Only do it if the item is colorfast to chlorine and the label allows it. Rinse well afterward and let the item air-dry.
Careful. Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia or other removers; the fumes are toxic.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for scuff marks on clothes
Look for a liquid laundry detergent, an enzyme laundry presoak and an all-fabric (oxygen) bleach labeled for colorfast fabrics. Keep a pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solvent on hand for the stubborn marks.
Clorox 2 Laundry Stain Remover and Color Booster Powder, 49.2 Ounces
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on clothes, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light before using any heat. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
Heavy buildup usually takes more than one round.
Heavy or long-standing buildup →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
The mark is gone when it no longer shows on the damp fabric and the spot matches the fabric around it. When it's gone, let the item air-dry; if any mark remains, move on to the next treatment rather than drying it.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your clothes
Black rubber marks
Black rubber marks are usually solid smears from shoes or tires, so a dull knife matters more than any liquid. Scrape off as much as you can before the cold soak, so less of it is left to smear.
Rub gently and keep the friction light, since a hard scrub spreads the mark over more of the fabric. If it doesn't lift after the detergent step, move to the enzyme presoak rather than scrubbing harder.
Wool and silk
Wool and silk are the fabrics where the bleach steps need the most restraint, so this card changes the end of the sequence. Skip the oxygen bleach for them as well, and stop after the enzyme presoak.
For anything still visible after that, take the item to a dry cleaner rather than pushing harder at home. Ask them to check the fiber content before any product goes on.
Colored and dark fabric
Colored fabric can lose its dye, so test any bleach on a hidden area before you use it. Stick to the blotting, cold soak and detergent steps first, since they are the safest path on color.
Check the color after each rinse, and if it changes at any point, stop and take the item to a dry cleaner.
Leather, suede and fur trim
Suede, leather and fur trim can't go through the home steps, so take them to a cleaner that specializes in those materials. Ask them to look at the stain before any product goes on.
Don't try to wash the trim yourself, even for a light mark, since a wrong product can do more damage than the mark.
Heavy or long-standing buildup
Old marks fight back harder than fresh ones, so you may need several rounds on an old stain. If it's a protein stain, soak it overnight in an enzyme presoak and give the detergent extra time to work.
When the mark has dried, start by brushing or scraping off the crusty bits. Then put the item in a cold-water soak with detergent or enzyme presoak, and do it again if the mark's still there.
Say it's already been washed in hot water. Then the steps will probably fade the mark, not wipe it out. Dried paint, for one, might never come out all the way, and if the item is big or delicate, hand it to a dry cleaner.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on scuff marks on clothes?
Most cupboard remedies don't belong on clothes, so stick with products the fabric can take. Oxygen bleach is the main remedy used on clothes, and the others have limits that matter on fabric.
Works1Skip5
Chemical safety
Never mix these
Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.
Chlorine bleach + Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)
Both makers advise against combining them: OxiClean says not to mix it with chlorine bleach, and Clorox says the two bleaches cancel each other out.
If they mix by accident: Don't use the mixture; ventilate the room and avoid breathing fumes or touching it; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 for disposal advice or if anyone feels unwell.
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't dry or iron a stained item
Heat locks a stain in, and then you may never get it out. So don't put the item in the dryer or near the iron until the mark is gone.
If it's already been through the dryer, don't run it through again. Go back to the soak instead.
Don't rub a fresh stain with bar soap
Bar soap sets many stains, so the liquid detergent in the steps is the right choice. Keep the rubbing light, since the fabric can take only so much friction.
Don't bleach wool, silk, mohair, leather or spandex
Chlorine bleach damages these materials, and on rust it makes the stain more intense or permanent. Skip it for both, even if the mark is stubborn.
Don't use full-strength bleach
Undiluted bleach can weaken fabric so it tears or wears out sooner. That is why the chlorine treatment is always diluted.
When to call a professional
If the label says dry-clean only, get the item to a pro dry cleaner promptly. Tell them what the fiber is and what the stain is. Washable things can go too when the stain is big, the item is bulky, or the fabric is fragile.
Questions
How do you get crayon marks out of white clothes?
Scrape off the wax with a dull knife, then soak the item in cold water for about 30 minutes and work in liquid laundry detergent. A white item can go through the bleach treatments if its label allows it, but the detergent and enzyme presoak should come first.
Will scuff marks come out of clothes?
Usually, yes, as long as the label allows washing and you start with cold water. Blot, soak and wash with liquid detergent before trying anything stronger.
What should I do if I don't know what the stain is?
Start with the cold soak and liquid detergent, which are the mildest steps. Only move on to the enzyme presoak if the mark stays.
Can I put the item straight into the washer?
Not yet. Blot and scrape off the solids, check the care label and test a hidden seam first, then move into the wash.
What does an enzyme presoak do?
It breaks down protein stains such as blood and grass, which is why it's used for stubborn marks. Leave it overnight, then wash the item again.
Can I use bleach on colored clothes?
Chlorine bleach is the last resort for colored clothes, and only if they're colorfast and the label allows it. Oxygen bleach is the gentler choice, but test it on a hidden area first.
Should I take the item to a dry cleaner?
Yes. Go to a cleaner if the item is dry-clean only, if the stain covers a big area, or if the fabric is fragile. Let them know what the fiber is and what the stain is, so they can pick the right method.
Scuff Marks on other materials
Other stains on clothes
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.