First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Gently scrape up semi-solids with a rounded spoon and blot liquids with a dry, white cloth.
- Use cold water first. Never start with hot water.
- Work from the edges toward the center without rubbing.
- Pretest any cleaning solution on a hidden spot.
Vomit is a protein stain, and heat sets protein stains and odors in man-made fibers, so cold water goes on first, never hot. Stomach acid can also permanently change dyes, which is why a colored spot may not fully come out even when you do everything right. Work through the steps in order, and check the spot carefully before any heat touches the item.
Scrape up any solids with a spoon or paper towel, and resist the urge to scrub. Then an enzyme cleaner for dog vomit is the product to reach for, since it breaks down the residue behind the smell. If the sour smell comes back after drying, that leftover residue is still in there and needs another round.
6 items
What you'll need
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- Rounded spoonLifts semi-solid vomit without pushing it deeper into the fibers.
- Dry white cloths or white paper towelsBlot up liquid without transferring color onto the fabric. (opens Amazon)
- Enzyme cleanerBreaks down the protein that the rinse leaves behind. (opens Amazon)
- Warm waterMakes the enzyme solution. Keep it warm, not hot.
- Absorbent pad (carpet only)Holds the enzyme solution on the spot for the full 30 minutes.
- Liquid detergent (washables only)Launders the item in warm water after the soak. (opens Amazon)
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Scrape and blot the spill
Lift any solid pieces with a rounded spoon, working from the outside edge in so the spill doesn't spread. Then press a dry white cloth or white paper towels onto the liquid and blot until little more comes up.
Tip. Switch to a clean section of cloth as the first one fills.
Step 2 of 6
Flush the spot with cold water
Dab cold water onto the stain and blot it again, which loosens what's left before anything else touches it. For a washable item, soak it in cold water and agitate it gently instead.
Careful. Keep heat and steam away from the spot, since both set the protein and the odor.
Step 3 of 630 minutes
Soak with an enzyme solution
Mix 1/2 teaspoon enzyme product into 1/2 cup warm water. On carpet, keep an absorbent pad soaked in the solution on the stain for the full 30 minutes, and on washables, soak the item in the same solution.
Tip. Make a fresh batch of solution for each round instead of reusing it.
Step 4 of 6
Rinse, then wash in warm water
Flush the spot with plain water until the enzyme solution is gone. Launder washables in warm, not hot, water with your usual liquid detergent, then rinse them.
Step 5 of 630 minutes
Repeat the soak if a mark stays
If the stain is still visible, soak the item for an additional half hour and then rewash it. Old or dried spots often need several rounds, so repeat as needed.
Step 6 of 6
Check before applying any heat
Look at the spot in good light, and go back to the soak if any color or outline is left. Air dry the item while you check, and only move on to drying once the spot is completely gone.
Careful. Don't machine-dry or iron until the stain is gone, since the heat sets it more permanently.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for pet vomit
Pick an enzyme cleaner labeled for protein stains, and for upholstery, choose a water-based spot cleaner only if the fabric code is W or WS.
Nature’s Miracle Dog Stain & Odor Remover, Enzymatic Cleaner, 32 oz
Nature’s Miracle Advanced Dog Stain & Odor Eliminator, Severe Mess
OdoBan Odor Eliminator & Disinfectant Concentrate
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on these surfaces, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →Pick what it is on
Pet Vomit on every material
No match. Try the main search for anything else.
How to tell it's working
A spot that's gone looks like the surrounding fabric or carpet, with no yellow tint and no sour smell once the item is damp. If the smell comes back when the item is wet, the protein is still there, so repeat the soak before it dries.
What changes for yours
Adjust for where the stain is
Getting rid of the smell
The smell comes from the same protein, so the steps above are what clear it. Odor usually lingers when the spot dried before it was rinsed, so don't skip the cold rinse even if the stain looks gone.
Heat sets the odor in man-made fibers as well as the stain, so keep the item out of the dryer and away from steam until you can't smell it. If the smell comes back when the item is damp, repeat the soak on that spot.
Carpet and rugs
Carpet holds the spill in the pad as well as the pile, so blot from the outside in and don't press liquid down into the backing. Keep the absorbent pad on the stain for the full 30 minutes, since that's where the enzyme does its work.
If the stain is old, a carpet spot cleaner can follow the enzyme step: spray it over the stain and the area around it, and let it work 5 to 10 minutes. Work it in with a light cloth from the edges toward the center, then rinse with plain water so no product is left behind.
Upholstery
Upholstery needs a color test before anything else. Test a small, hidden area, and if the color changes, stop and don't use the product.
Water-based cleaners only go on fabric coded W or WS, and never on fabric coded X or S. For velvet, silk, vinyl and leather, skip the water-based cleaner entirely and leave a professional to decide, and leave plenty of time for the upholstery to dry afterward.
Washable fabric
Washable items need a colorfast check before any bleach goes near them. Test an inconspicuous spot, and if the color moves, keep to the enzyme soak and skip the bleach altogether.
Once the test passes, the item can take the warm wash from the steps, followed by a full rinse before it goes anywhere near a dryer.
Old, dried or set-in stains
An old or dried spot needs more time, not harder scrubbing. Scrape or brush off any crusted matter, then soak the spot in cold water with an enzyme product, for at least 30 minutes or several hours if it's aged.
A dried spot on a washable item can take a longer enzyme presoak and a second wash, and oxygen bleach can help if the fabric is colorfast. Test an inconspicuous area first, and skip oxygen bleach on wool, silk or leather.
If the spot is still there after the dryer, the heat has set it more deeply, so soak it again rather than scrubbing harder. A truly stubborn stain can take one or two days of soaking, stirred now and then, before a final wash and air dry. Chlorine bleach is the very last option, only on fabric that is colorfast and not silk, wool or spandex, and only after everything is rinsed out.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on pet vomit?
Plenty of household remedies circulate for pet messes, but most of them do nothing for a protein stain. Here's how each one compares with the steps above, and which ones could damage your surface.
Helps1Skip4Avoid1
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't scrub the spot into the fibers
Scrubbing pushes the protein deeper into the carpet pad or fabric weave, and it spreads the stain wider. Blot instead, and work from the edges toward the center.
Don't use laundry detergent on carpet
Laundry detergent is meant for washables, and it doesn't belong on carpet. For carpet, the enzyme pad does the work, and the Carpet & Rugs guide covers the rest of the cleanup.
Don't mix stain removers
Chlorine bleach mixed with ammonia, vinegar or alcohol can give off hazardous fumes. If you need more than one product, rinse the area thoroughly between them.
Don't skip the cold rinse when it looks clean
A spot can look gone while protein and odor stay in the fibers, and the dryer then locks in whatever is left. Rinse first, then judge the result.
When to call a professional
If the spot is still visible after two rounds of the soak, or the item is valuable, a professional cleaner is the safer call. Tell them it's vomit, since stomach acid can permanently change dyes and fabric.
Questions
Does bile stain, and how do you remove bile stains?
Yes, bile can leave a yellow mark, especially on light fabric. Treat it like the rest of the vomit: scrape, blot, rinse with cold water, then use the enzyme solution for 30 minutes. If yellow remains, use the set-in options.
Which enzyme cleaner works for pet vomit?
An enzyme cleaner labeled for protein stains is the right type, because the steps depend on an enzyme breaking down the protein. For a small spot, mix 1/2 teaspoon in 1/2 cup warm water, and pretest it on a hidden area first.
What stain remover removes dog or cat vomit?
An enzyme-based remover for protein stains is the one that removes dog or cat vomit, since the protein is what has to break down. For colorfast washables, a second enzyme soak and wash comes next, and chlorine bleach is only ever a last step.
What if the vomit dried overnight?
It's harder, but it's still worth treating. Scrape or brush off the crusted matter, then soak the spot in cold water with an enzyme product for several hours before washing.
Why does cold water work better than hot?
Heat cooks the protein and makes it coagulate between the fibers, so it sets into the item instead of rinsing out. Cold water keeps it loose so it can be lifted away.
Can I use bleach on colored fabric?
Only chlorine bleach on fabric that is colorfast and not silk, wool or spandex, and only as the final step after rinsing. Test any product that could change color on an inconspicuous spot first.
Is pretesting really necessary?
Yes, pretest any cleaning solution on a hidden spot first, because dyes can change and fabric can react. Wait for the test spot to dry before you judge the result.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.