First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Act while the paint is wet. After latex paint has dried for 6 to 8 hours, removal is very difficult.
- Blot liquid paint and gently scrape up thick paint with a rounded spoon, working from the edges toward the center so it doesn't spread.
- Check the can. For oil-based paint, use only the solvent the label recommends as a thinner.
Paint on brick can be a stubborn stain, and how it comes out depends on its base. Latex that is water-based comes off with water and detergent when it's fresh, yet it can become a lasting mark after drying. Oil-based paints need a thinner, specifically the solvent their label names.
Removing paint from old brick takes more patience, since aged buildup calls for harsher methods that can do more harm. When removing latex paint from brick has stalled, a poultice can draw out deep spots under plastic for 24 hours. If you're removing paint from brick that is historic, or the stain won't budge, bring in a restoration specialist rather than pushing harder.
Before you start
What brick & masonry can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Hot water
- Soaking
Use with care5
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
6 items
What you'll need
Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.
- Paint remover for the paint's baseA proprietary remover is preferred over homemade mixes, and it should match whether the paint is latex or oil. (opens Amazon)
- Water with a hose or bucketTo wet the brick before any cleaning solution goes on and to rinse it afterward. (opens Amazon)
- Stiff non-metal bristle brushScrubs stubborn spots without the damage a wire or metal brush causes. (opens Amazon)
- Rounded spoonLifts thick paint gently so it doesn't spread.
- Solvent the can recommends as a thinnerNeeded only for oil-based paint, and only the thinner the label names.
- Mild acidic neutralizing washNeeded only after an alkaline remover.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Test the remover on a hidden spot
Choose an inconspicuous part of the brick, such as a low corner or a spot that's hard to see. Apply a small amount of remover there and follow the maker's directions for how long it should sit. Check the spot before you commit to the whole area.
Step 2 of 6
Wet the brick thoroughly
Saturate the brick with water before any cleaning solution goes on, and keep it wet while you work. Pre-wetting is required before chemical cleaning, so don't skip it, even on a small patch.
Tip. Keep a hose or spray bottle nearby so the brick doesn't dry out between passes.
Careful. Do not do chemical cleaning below 40 degrees F, so wait for warmer weather.
Step 3 of 6
Apply the paint remover
Brush, roll or spray the remover on, following the maker's directions for coverage and timing. Work in manageable sections so that each one can be rinsed on schedule.
Careful. Don't let the remover dry on the brickwork, and if it's a solvent-based product, work with good ventilation and no open flame, pilot light or sparks nearby.
Step 4 of 6
Rinse the brick thoroughly
Once the remover has worked, rinse the whole area thoroughly with water. Start at the top so the runoff carries the loosened paint down and away.
Step 5 of 6
Neutralize an alkaline remover
If you used an alkaline remover, follow the rinse with a mild acidic neutralizing wash. Apply it across the same area and let it sit briefly, following the label's directions.
Step 6 of 6
Finish with a final water rinse
Rinse the whole area one last time with water so no remover or neutralizer is left on the brick. Then check the test spot and the rest of the wall for paint that's still clinging.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for paint on brick & masonry
Pick a proprietary paint remover made for brick or masonry over a homemade mix. Check its label for whether it's alkaline, since that decides whether you need the neutralizing wash.
Goof Off Professional Strength Remover
Goo Gone Pro-Power Goo & Adhesive Remover
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on brick & masonry, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
Paint that has lifted should soften and rinse away in sheets or flakes, leaving brick that looks even when it's wet. If paint still clings in spots after a full rinse, repeat the remover on those patches only before you move on.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your brick & masonry
Latex paint
Latex is the easy case if you catch it wet, so sponge the spot with water and detergent before any remover goes on. Once it has dried, the same steps may not clear it, so don't wait.
Everything else in the steps applies as written, including the test spot and the rinse. If the latex is thick, lift it gently before you sponge so it doesn't spread.
Oil-based paint
Oil-based paint isn't water-soluble, so water and detergent won't lift it. Use the thinner the label recommends, and nothing else.
Keep the sponging out of this one, since that method is for latex. Once the solvent has been tried on a hidden spot, you can go across the wall as the steps describe.
Acrylic paint
Read the can first, because the paint's base decides the method. If the label says water-based, treat it like latex: wet the brick and use the remover and rinse steps.
If the label calls for a solvent thinner, treat it like oil and use only that thinner. Either way, a small test spot tells you whether the paint lifts before you commit to the whole wall.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Old paint that has built up over years is harder than a fresh coat and may need a stronger method. For deep, localized stains, a poultice is the option to use.
Mix talc, whiting, fuller's earth, diatomaceous earth or clay with the right solvent, and spread it at least 1/8 inch thick. Proprietary stain-specific products are preferred over homemade mixes, so consider one first.
Dried latex may be permanent, so set your expectations before you start. On hard surfaces, it can sometimes be scraped off with stiff cardboard or a plastic bowl scraper.
Cover the poultice with plastic and leave it for 24 hours, then let it dry and scrape or brush it off. Repeat as needed, but start with a small area, because each pass carries more risk of damage to the brick. If the stain is still there after several rounds, accept some staining or hire a professional.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on paint on brick & masonry?
Household remedies aren't needed for paint on brick. The paint remover, water and neutralizing wash do that job, so the rows here show what to leave out.
Skip6
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't scrub with a wire brush
Wire and metal brushes damage mortar joints and can leave rusting particles on the brick. A stiff bristle brush that isn't metal is the right tool for stubborn spots.
Don't blast the brick with pressure
Pressure washing above 800 psi is not appropriate for brick, because it erodes mortar and damages the brick faces. Sandblasting can permanently remove the surface and increase water penetration, so skip it entirely.
Don't reach for muriatic acid
Unbuffered muriatic (hydrochloric) acid and hydrofluoric acid cause further stains and acid burns, and they damage mortar joints. Stick to the mild neutralizing wash from the steps.
When to call a professional
If the brick is historic, have a restoration specialist handle the cleaning, since the wrong method can damage it. Laser cleaning needs a specialized contractor, and abrasive blasting needs a highly qualified operator. If you can't identify the paint or the stain, you can have a sample sent to a testing laboratory.
Questions
Can paint come off brick once it has dried?
Sometimes, but it's much harder. Dried paint may be permanent, so set your expectations low and start with the poultice option if the stain is deep. On hard surfaces, hardened latex can sometimes be scraped off with stiff cardboard or a plastic bowl scraper.
How do I tell if my paint is latex or oil?
Check the can. If the label says water-based, it's latex and water with detergent works while it's still wet. If the label recommends a solvent thinner, it's oil-based and needs that thinner.
Can I use bleach to remove paint from brick?
No. Bleach is for moss and algae on brick, not for paint. It's listed for moss and algae on brick, not for paint, so leave it out of the paint job.
Does vinegar take paint off brick?
No. Vinegar doesn't replace the paint remover; stick with the remover and water rinses, and use the poultice only if a deep stain survives. Stick with the remover and water rinses, and use the poultice option only if a deep stain survives.
Can I sandblast old paint off brick?
No. Abrasive blasting can permanently remove the brick's surface and increase water penetration, so it's a bad trade for old paint. Use the poultice option instead.
When should I hire a professional?
Hire one for historic brickwork, since it should be cleaned under a restoration specialist. Laser cleaning and abrasive blasting also need specialized contractors or highly qualified operators.
Paint on other materials
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.