Prep first
Before you start
- Find the cleaning code on the tag under a cushion or on the frame before you buy any product.
- If there is no tag, pretest each product on a hidden area first.
- Clear the area and lay an old towel under the spot so nothing soaks into the floor.
Vomit soaks down into the padding under the fabric, not just the surface, which is why a quick wipe rarely removes the smell. The odor stays in the fibers long after the spot looks clean, so the deep clean has to reach the whole piece. Find the cleaning code on the tag first, because it decides which cleaners are safe to use.
Treat a couch, sofa or chair with the same core method, and use it for dog or cat vomit as well. Car seats and seat straps need a few extra precautions, so check those before you start. Work in small areas, from the edges toward the center, so the mess doesn't spread.
Before you start
What couches, chairs and car seats can take
Use with care5
- Water
- Oxygen bleach
- Enzyme cleaners
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
Avoid5
- Hot water
- Soaking
- Chlorine bleach
- Scrubbing and abrasives
- Heat (dryer, iron, hot air)
8 items
What you'll need
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- Upholstery vacuum with a crevice toolLifts dry residue from seams and between the cushions before any liquid touches the fabric. (opens Amazon)
- Disposable towel or cardboardScoops up solids without spreading them across the fabric.
- Enzyme-based upholstery cleanerBreaks down the protein and food in vomit, which are the parts that cause the smell. (opens Amazon)
- Microfiber towelsHold the cleaner so you can press it in without soaking the fabric. (opens Amazon)
- White clothsBlot without leaving any dye on the upholstery. (opens Amazon)
- Baking sodaAbsorbs moisture and odor from the whole piece. (opens Amazon)
- Enzyme-based odor eliminatorFinishes the job after the cleaner has been blotted up. (opens Amazon)
- Cool or lukewarm waterDampens the cloth used for blotting, so the spot is never rinsed with hot water.
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7 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 7
Find the cleaning code
Look on the tag under a cushion or on the frame before you touch the spot. W means water-based shampoo or foam only, S means water-free dry-cleaning solvent only, WS or SW means either one without saturating the fabric, and X means vacuum or light brushing only.
If the code is X, vacuum the spot lightly and stop there. If it is S, call a professional furniture cleaning service instead of going further.
Careful. Never put water on S-coded fabric, and never use solvent on W-coded fabric.
Step 2 of 7
Scoop up solids and vacuum
Lift off any solids with a disposable towel or cardboard, removing them gently so they don't get pushed deeper into the fabric. Then vacuum the whole piece with an upholstery attachment, including between the cushions and in every crevice.
Tip. If the vomit left a visible stain, treat that stain first with its own method, then continue with the steps here.
Careful. Never scrape or rub the stain, because that pushes it deeper into the fabric.
Step 3 of 7
Apply the enzyme cleaner
Spray a small amount of enzyme-based upholstery cleaner onto a microfiber towel, not directly onto the couch. Press it into the spot and along the seams, and let it dwell as the label says.
Careful. Never saturate the fabric, since water must not reach the filling.
Step 4 of 7
Blot out the cleaner
Blot the spot with a cloth dampened in cool or lukewarm water to lift the cleaner, then blot it with a clean white cloth. Keep blotting, switching to a clean part of the cloth as it picks up the mess, until the spot feels dry.
Careful. Never use hot water on the spot, because it can set the stain.
Step 5 of 7A few hours
Absorb moisture with baking soda
Spread baking soda evenly over the whole piece, not just the spot, so it draws out moisture and odor. Let it sit a few hours, then vacuum it up.
Step 6 of 7
Finish with an odor eliminator
Once the baking soda is vacuumed up, make one light pass with an enzyme-based odor eliminator over the spot and its seams. This last pass finishes what the cleaner left behind.
Tip. Use a fresh section of the towel so you don't spread residue back onto the couch.
Step 7 of 7
Open the windows and let it dry
Open the windows wide so fresh air carries the odor out and keeps it from settling in. Let the piece dry completely before anyone sits on it.
What makes the job easier
Products that help
Choose an enzyme-based upholstery cleaner labeled for your fabric's code, and keep plain baking soda on hand for the absorbing step. A separate enzyme-based odor eliminator finishes the job.
BLACK+DECKER spillbuster Cordless Spill + Spot Cleaner
How we picked these: each product is made for this kind of odor or surface, its maker doesn't warn against using it on couches, chairs and car seats, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely before you use it again.
How to tell it's really done →A faint smell often fades as everything dries and airs out; give it a day before a second round.
Find the guide for your stain →Heavy grime or a lingering smell usually needs a second round once it's fully dry.
See what to do for what you're seeing →When to call a professional →How to tell it's done
The spot should look and smell like the rest of the couch once the fabric is fully dry, with no damp feel left in the padding. If you still smell the spot when it is dry, repeat the enzyme and blotting steps on it without saturating the fabric.
If there is a stain too
Related guides
A smell usually has a stain or a spill behind it. These guides cover the cleanup in detail:
What changes for yours
Adjust for what got hit
Cloth upholstery
Cloth upholstery is the fabric these steps were written for, so the enzyme, blotting and baking soda steps apply as written. Work one section at a time and blot each section before you move to the next, so the spot doesn't spread.
Chairs have more seams and arms where residue collects, so give those areas an extra pass with the crevice tool. Check the tag on the chair itself, since it may have a different code than the couch beside it.
Car seats and seat straps
Car seats collect dried vomit in the seams and under the straps, so start with a crevice-tool vacuum between and under the seats. Use a soft brush or toothbrush for dried bits in the stitching, and pull the seat belts back and flex the seams to release residue trapped underneath.
Read the vehicle care section of your owner's manual before you buy any product for the seats. Keep household and glass cleaners off them, since they can stain and discolor the fabric and affect its flame-retardant properties. On seats with side airbags, use no chemical solvents or strong detergents, and never spray cleaner on the sides.
Leather and vinyl
Enzyme formulas are made for fabric, so leather and vinyl need a pH-balanced product instead. Apply it with a soft cloth and skip the enzyme steps above for these surfaces.
Never use alcohol, cleaning solvents, oils, varnishes or polishes on leather, since they can damage its finish. Vinyl can take the same pH-balanced product, so work it in gently and let the surface air dry.
Prevention
Keep the smell from coming back
There is no need to deep clean on a schedule, so do it only when a spill or smell calls for it. In between, vacuum once a week with an upholstery attachment, and brush lightly to keep dust and grime from building up. Never use a stiff brush for dusting.
Blot any new spill right away instead of letting it sit. Use a washable throw over the spot where pets or kids sit most, so accidents land on the throw first.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies get rid of the smell?
Plenty of home remedies are passed around for vomit smell, so here is where each one fits. Only baking soda earns a place in the cleanup, and the others add nothing for this job or can harm the fabric.
Works1Skip3Avoid2
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't cover the smell with a scent
Air fresheners and scented sprays hide the odor only while the fragrance lasts, and the vomit left underneath keeps producing the smell. Clean the spot first and let any fragrance come last, if you use one at all.
Don't reach for bleach
Chlorine bleach is off the table for couch upholstery, and bleach-containing wipes can cause chemical attack on car interiors. Stick with the enzyme cleaner, which is made for the protein and food in vomit.
Don't use laundry or dishwasher detergent
Automatic dishwasher detergent, heavy-duty household detergent and laundry detergent can contain alkalis that set some upholstery stains. Stick with the enzyme cleaner and water, and skip these detergents even as a quick fix.
Don't take off zippered cushion covers
Removing zippered cushion covers to launder or dry clean them is off limits for this job. Clean each cushion where it sits, and keep the covers on.
Don't let the spot wait
Acting fast keeps bacteria from embedding in the fabric or leather, and the odor gets harder to remove the longer it sits. Start with the scooping step as soon as you can.
Troubleshooting
If the smell comes back
Pick what you're seeing:
The smell comes back after drying
Check the seams, the back of the cushions and the frame for leftover residue, since that is usually what keeps the odor going. Vacuum it, then repeat the enzyme and blotting steps on that spot without saturating the fabric.
The odor stays after several cleanings
On car seats, unbolting the seat and deep cleaning beneath it may be needed. On a couch, a professional upholstery cleaner is the next step.
The fabric shows a color change or bleeding
Stop working on that spot and blot it with a cloth dampened in lukewarm water to lift the product. Then have a professional upholstery cleaner take over.
When to call a professional
Call a professional furniture cleaning service when the couch is soiled all over, or when a stain is large, unusual, or past what cleaner and a cloth can lift. For fabric that the code marks as S, a professional should do the cleaning from the start.
Questions
Can I use the same steps for dog or cat vomit?
Yes, the same method works for dog or cat vomit on a couch. The enzyme cleaner breaks down the protein and food in it, so the steps don't change. Keep pets off the spot until it is completely dry.
What if the vomit smell is old and set in?
Start with the enzyme cleaner and repeat the steps on the spot, since the first pass may not reach all of the odor. If it still smells after several rounds, a professional upholstery cleaner is the next step.
Does baking soda alone get rid of vomit smell?
No, baking soda is only a temporary fix for vomit odor. The enzyme cleaner does the heavy lifting, and the baking soda helps absorb the moisture and odor left behind.
Will a steam cleaner get rid of the smell?
Steam is sometimes said to work on stubborn vomit odor, but it isn't recommended on code W or SW fabric. Skip steam and stick with the enzyme steps, which work without it.
Can I speed up drying with a fan or hair dryer?
Yes, a fan or hair dryer can help the spot dry faster, as long as you keep it moving. Use it only for drying, after the cleaning steps are done.
Are these cleaners safe around kids and pets?
Keep the room well ventilated while you work, and wear rubber gloves when you handle cleaners. Keep kids and pets off the spot until it is completely dry.
Start from the bigger picture
More odor guides
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.