Prep first
Before you start
- Check the cleaning code on the tag before you use any liquid.
- Brush or vacuum up loose dirt and spores, outdoors if you can.
- Pick a hidden spot and test the product there first.
- Keep the room well ventilated while you work.
A musty smell in a chair usually comes from mildew growing in the padding, the fabric, or the wood frame where damp air got trapped. Because the filling can't get wet, the cleaning method depends on the cleaning code on the tag, so check that before anything touches the chair.
Get musty smell out of wood furniture or drawers by removing the spores, cleaning by the code, and drying it fully. Mold can start growing within about 2 days, so drying quickly matters more than anything else. Keep the chair in a dry room afterward, and the smell has less chance to return.
Before you start
What furniture can take
Use with care5
- Water
- Oxygen bleach
- Enzyme cleaners
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
Avoid5
- Hot water
- Soaking
- Chlorine bleach
- Scrubbing and abrasives
- Heat (dryer, iron, hot air)
10 items
What you'll need
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- Soft-bristled broomBrushes loose spores off the upholstery without pushing them deeper.
- Vacuum with an upholstery attachmentPulls spores and dust out of the fabric. (opens Amazon)
- Water-based shampoo or foam upholstery cleanerThe product type for W-coded fabric, and an option for WS or SW. (opens Amazon)
- Water-free dry-cleaning solventThe product type for S-coded fabric, with no water involved. (opens Amazon)
- Mild non-phosphate detergentCleans bare wood and leather without leaving heavy residue.
- Rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl or 90% denatured)Used in a 1 to 1 wipe for mildew on colorfast fabric. (opens Amazon)
- Clean white clothsBlot, wipe and lift without transferring dye or dirt. (opens Amazon)
- A soft brush (opens Amazon)
- Electric fan and a heaterDry the chair quickly once it has been cleaned. (opens Amazon)
- HygrometerChecks the humidity so you can keep the room in the right range afterward.
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7 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 7
Check the cleaning code
Find the cleaning code on the tag, which is W, S, WS or SW, or X. If the chair has no code, pretest any product on a hidden spot first, and if the dyes bleed or the fabric shrinks, stop and call a professional.
Step 2 of 7
Vacuum out the spores
Brush loose spores off the upholstery with a soft-bristled broom, outdoors if possible. Then run an upholstery attachment over the whole surface to draw out more of the mold.
Tip. Wash the broom before you use it again.
Careful. Dispose of a disposable vacuum bag at once, since the spores go straight into it.
Step 3 of 7
Clean by the cleaning code
Use the product type your code allows, and work one small section at a time. On W fabric, use a water-based shampoo or foam upholstery cleaner, and on S fabric use a water-free dry-cleaning solvent, while WS or SW fabric accepts either.
For X fabric, skip liquids and only vacuum or brush lightly. On bare wood, wipe with a damp rag and mild non-phosphate detergent instead.
Tip. Apply foam with a cloth rather than pouring liquid on the chair. With solvent, ventilate the room and keep flames, sparks and pilot lights away.
Careful. Do not use water on S-coded fabric, and do not use solvents on W-coded fabric.
Step 4 of 7
Wipe the mildew on fabric
On fabric, mix 1 cup of rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl or 90% denatured) with 1 cup of water, then wipe the moldy areas with the cloth and blot. Skip this on X-coded fabric and on any fabric you haven't pretested.
Tip. Work from the edges toward the center so the mark doesn't spread.
Careful. Alcohol damages acetate, triacetate, modacrylic and acrylic fibers, and it can fade some dyes.
Step 5 of 7
Blot away the residue
Blot the area with a cloth dampened in cool or lukewarm water to lift any leftover cleaner. Keep the cloth barely damp so the fabric is never soaked.
Step 6 of 7
Dry it within two days
Dry the chair quickly, since mold can grow within about 2 days. Set an electric fan on it, and add a heater if it is still damp. If you can, place upholstered pieces in direct sunlight and air them out to stop mold growth.
Step 7 of 7
Keep air moving around it
Move the chair away from walls and open any nearby closet doors so air can move freely around it. Leave it there until it is fully dry and no longer smells musty.
What makes the job easier
Products that help
Choose a water-based shampoo or foam upholstery cleaner for W fabric and a water-free dry-cleaning solvent for S fabric, and never use the wrong one for the code. Use a mild non-phosphate detergent on bare wood.
Rug Doctor Spot & Upholstery Cleaner
How we picked these: each product is made for this kind of odor or surface, its maker doesn't warn against using it on furniture, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely before you use it again.
How to tell it's really done →A faint smell often fades as everything dries and airs out; give it a day before a second round.
Find the guide for your stain →Heavy grime or a lingering smell usually needs a second round once it's fully dry.
See what to do for what you're seeing →When to call a professional →How to tell it's done
The chair is clean when the musty smell is gone and the fabric looks even, with no dark ring or patch. It is fully dry when the padding and the wood feel cool and dry all the way through, with no damp spots. If it still smells or feels damp, dry it again with the fan before you use it.
If there is a stain too
Related guides
A smell usually has a stain or a spill behind it. These guides cover the cleanup in detail:
What changes for yours
Adjust for your furniture
Hard wood frames and drawers
Wood takes a damp rag and mild non-phosphate detergent rather than upholstery products, and the cleaning code does not apply. Wipe the surface, then dry it thoroughly in a well-ventilated place.
Hard-surfaced pieces are cleanable, but some can be damaged, so test a hidden spot first. Keep the wood away from direct sun, since sun can warp it.
Wicker, cane and bamboo
Wicker, cane and bamboo can take warm sudsy water with a few drops of ammonia. Rinse well and wipe dry afterward.
If the mildew stays after that, test a commercial mildew stain remover on a hidden spot before using it on the whole piece. For particle board, use a barely damp cloth, wipe lightly, never soak it, and dry it quickly.
Silk or wool upholstery
Skip ammonia and alcohol on silk or wool. Ammonia damages both fibers, and alcohol can fade or bleed some silk dyes.
Oxygen bleach is also labeled not for wool, silk or their blends, so stick to the cleaner your code allows.
Leather
Brush spores off with a soft brush or clean cloth, then clean with water and mild non-phosphate detergent. Wipe off the residue and dry it thoroughly.
Leather dyes are sensitive, so test a hidden spot first, and never use alcohol or oxygen bleach on it.
Antique or old pieces
For an expensive or sentimental antique, consult a furniture repair or restoration specialist before you try a product. Test any product on a hidden spot first.
Upholstery that has been soaked or badly moldy is seldom salvageable, but the frame can be stripped, disinfected and reupholstered once it is completely dry.
Prevention
Keep the smell from coming back
Vacuum cushions once a week with an upholstery attachment, and never use a stiff brush for dusting. Vacuum often or brush lightly so dust and grime don't build up.
Keep the room's humidity ideally between 30 and 50 percent, and check it with a hygrometer. Move the chair away from walls and open closet doors near it so air can move around it.
Clean it as soon as mold growth is first noticed, and don't wait for the smell to get worse.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies get rid of the smell?
Most household remedies don't belong in this deep clean, because they are made for other stains or surfaces. Rubbing alcohol is the one used in the mildew step, and the rest are skipped or used only for spot work.
Works1Helps1Skip3Avoid1
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't soak the padding
Water or detergent that reaches the filling can cause shrinkage or color bleeding. Overwetting can also leave a circle on the fabric, so use only as much as the cloth carries.
Don't scrub the stain
Blot, do not rub, and never scrape a stain with anything. Press and lift with a clean cloth instead, which is gentler on the fibers.
Don't use hot water or steam
Hot water on a spill can set the stain. Hot water extraction and steam cleaning are not recommended for W or SW fabric, so stick to cool or lukewarm water.
Don't use liquid on X fabric
Foam or liquid cleaner can cause shrinking, fading or pile distortion on X-coded fabric. Vacuum or brush lightly instead and skip the cleaning step entirely.
Don't combine cleaners
Never mix bleach and ammonia, and don't layer one cleaner over another. Finish one product with a rinse and a full dry before trying a different one.
Troubleshooting
If the smell comes back
Pick what you're seeing:
Smell returns a few days later
The padding or wood was probably still damp, or mold was left inside or behind the piece. Dry it again with a fan and heater, then move it away from walls and open nearby closet doors.
Dark ring or circle after drying
The fabric was overwetted, which can leave a circle. Let it dry completely, then next time work in small sections and blot from the edges toward the center with less liquid.
Color has faded or bled
A dye reacted to the product, so stop using that product on the rest of the chair. If the color problem continues, consult a professional upholstery cleaner.
When to call a professional
Use a professional furniture cleaning service when the piece is soiled overall. Have a certified upholstery cleaner handle large or unusual stains and any fabric whose dyes bleed or shrink in a pretest. For S-coded fabric, a professional furniture cleaning service is the recommended choice.
Questions
Can the musty smell be removed from wood at all?
Hard wood is cleanable, but some pieces can be damaged by the process. Wipe it with a damp rag and mild non-phosphate detergent, then dry it thoroughly in a well-ventilated place out of direct sun. For a valuable piece, check with a furniture restoration specialist first.
Can I clean a couch the same way?
Yes, follow the same steps, but check the code on the tag first. Upholstered furniture that has been soaked or badly moldy is seldom salvageable, but the frame can be stripped, disinfected and reupholstered once it is completely dry.
Will air freshener or a scent get rid of the smell?
No. A scent only hides the smell, and the mildew stays in the padding or wood until it is cleaned and dried.
Can I use laundry detergent or dishwasher detergent instead?
No. Heavy-duty household detergents, laundry detergent and automatic dishwasher detergent can contain alkalis that set some upholstery stains, so use only the cleaner your code allows.
Do I need a different method for a cedar chest or trunk?
The same wood method works: wipe with a damp rag and mild non-phosphate detergent, then dry it in a well-ventilated place. Keep it out of direct sun, and leave the lid open so the inside can air out.
Can I wash or dry-clean the cushion covers?
No. Do not remove zippered cushion covers to launder or dry clean them. Clean them in place with the method your cleaning code allows.
How long can a damp chair wait before drying?
Not long. Mold can start growing within about 2 days, and any item that cannot be dried within 48 hours should be discarded.
Start from the bigger picture
More odor guides
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.