How to Remove Marker Stains from Sheets, Towels & Table Linens

Quick answer

Blot the ink with a clean white cloth, then sponge it with rubbing alcohol or a pre-wash spot-and-stain remover, working from the outside edge in, until it stops bleeding. Rinse with plain water, air-dry, and keep the sheet out of the dryer until the marker is completely gone.

Start the steps

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First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Blot the ink with a clean, dry white cloth; don't rub.
  2. Treat it while it's fresh, before any laundering.
  3. Pretest any remover on a hidden spot and stop if color transfers.
  4. Keep the sheet away from heat until the marker is gone.

Whether the marker is washable or permanent decides how the sheet will react, and a fresh mark can often be lifted before the sheet goes near the washer. Once a hot wash or a trip through the dryer has touched it, the ink can set, and permanent ink that has dried on the fibers may stay visible no matter what you try. Colored sheets need a hidden-seam test before any solvent or bleach touches them, so check the care label first.

If the ink is still wet, start with the sponge and rinse. Dry erase marks on a bed sheet usually lift faster than permanent, so try the sponge before anything stronger. Once it has dried, a pre-wash spot remover or enzyme pretreater is the better choice.

Before you start

What sheets, towels & table linens can take

Safe to use3

  • Water
  • Soaking
  • Enzyme cleaners

Use with care6

  • Hot water
  • Chlorine bleach
  • Oxygen bleach
  • Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
  • Acids (vinegar, lemon)
  • Scrubbing and abrasives

Avoid1

  • Heat, once the stain is out

5 items

What you'll need

0 of 5 ready

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7 steps

Step by step

0 of 7 done
  1. Step 1 of 7

    Lay a clean towel under the stain

    Put a clean white towel or a few sheets of white paper towel under the stain so the ink can't soak through to the mattress or the back of the sheet. Press a dry white cloth onto the top of the spot, and move to a clean part of the cloth each time it picks up color.

  2. Step 2 of 7

    Pretest the alcohol on a hidden spot

    Dab a little rubbing alcohol on a hidden seam or the inside of a hem, using a white cloth. Press a second white cloth on the spot, and if any color comes off, use only the pre-wash spot-and-stain remover from here on.

    Tip. Use 70% isopropyl alcohol, or 90% denatured alcohol, with no added color or fragrance.

    Careful. Rubbing alcohol is not for silk, acetate, triacetate, modacrylic or acrylic.

  3. Step 3 of 7

    Sponge the ink out from the edge

    Dampen a white cloth with the alcohol and sponge the stain from the outside edge toward the center. Switch to a clean part of the cloth as it takes up ink, and keep going until no more color bleeds onto it.

    Tip. Work in short passes so the alcohol doesn't soak through to the back of the sheet.

  4. Step 4 of 7

    Rinse the solvent out with water

    Rinse the spot with plain water, either under cool running water or with a clean wet cloth, until the alcohol smell is gone. Blot it dry with a clean white towel before you go on.

  5. Step 5 of 7

    Treat leftover color with the remover

    If color is still coming off, sponge the spot with pre-wash spot-and-stain remover until the bleeding stops. Rinse it out with plain water, then let the sheet air-dry fully before you check it.

    Careful. Leave a liquid remover on no longer than its label says, and keep a gel on bright or fluorescent sheets for only a few minutes.

  6. Step 6 of 7

    Wash only after the ink stops bleeding

    Apply a pre-wash spot-and-stain remover to the spot and launder the sheet on the hottest setting the care label allows. Check the spot in daylight once the wash is done.

    Tip. No care label, or an unknown fiber? Stick with cold water.

  7. Step 7 of 7

    Use oxygen bleach on a faint shadow

    If a faint shadow is left after washing, dampen the spot with all-fabric oxygen bleach and let it sit as long as the package directs. Rinse it out with plain water and launder the sheet again before it goes anywhere near the dryer.

    Tip. All-fabric oxygen bleach is the gentler choice for colors, but test a hidden area first.

    Careful. Use it only on colorfast sheets; stop if the test spot changes color.

If you'd rather buy than mix

Best products for marker on sheets, towels & table linens

Use a pre-wash spot-and-stain remover for the wash, and choose an all-fabric oxygen bleach for the final step. Pick rubbing alcohol with no added color or fragrance.

How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on sheets, towels & table linens, and its directions fit the steps above.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

How to tell it's working

The ink should stop bleeding onto your cloth during sponging, and the mark should look lighter before the wash. Check the sheet while it's still damp and in good light, and let it dry only once no trace shows. If the ink stops spreading but a faint shadow stays through a couple of cycles, it has likely set, so move on to the old-stain notes.

What changes for yours

Adjust for your sheets, towels & table linens

Dry erase marker

Dry erase ink isn't one of the two types covered above, so read the marker's packaging before you choose a first step. If it says washable, start with a cold-water soak, since washable ink is made to come out in water. If the packaging says nothing, treat it as permanent and go straight to the alcohol pretest.

After the cold-water soak, blot the spot dry and let the sheet air-dry, then check it in daylight before you go on. If a shadow is left, pick up at the alcohol pretest and carry on from there.

Permanent marker

Permanent ink isn't made to come out in water, so skip the cold-water soak and start with the alcohol pretest. Expect less from ink that has already dried, since it may not come out at all.

Keep the rest of the sheet away from any hot surface while you work, since heat can set what's left. On a colored sheet, make sure the pretest shows no dye transfer before you go on.

Colored sheets

Colored sheets need the pretest more than most, because untested dyes can bleed under alcohol. Use oxygen bleach only if the test spot holds its color.

If the color changes at any point, stop and take the sheet to a dry cleaner rather than pushing the remover further.

Cotton sheets

If the care label says cotton, the hottest setting the label allows is fine for the final wash. Cotton is the easiest case, and the cleaning stays the same.

Only the wash temperature moves; the pretest, the alcohol and the remover all stay the same.

Old, dried or set-in stains

Fresh stains are much easier to remove than old ones, so an old mark will need more time. For that, work detergent into the spot and let it stand overnight if necessary, then apply a pre-wash spot-and-stain remover and launder.

Washable marker can usually be cleared with repeat laundering, as long as you don't heat-dry between washes. Permanent marker that has dried may not come out at all, so set your expectations early.

If the sheet has already been through the dryer, the ink may be set and the steps above may only lighten it. If a faint shadow is still there after several rounds, stop and take the sheet to a dry cleaner.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on marker on sheets, towels & table linens?

Most home remedies for ink are meant for other stains, so only a few belong on marker. Most of these are a poor fit for marker on sheets; rubbing alcohol or a pre-wash remover is the better start.

Works2Skip4

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)Get it on Amazon WorksUsed for a faint shadow left after washing, and only on colorfast sheets. Keep it off wool and leather.
Rubbing alcoholGet it on Amazon WorksThis is the main solvent in the steps. Pretest it first, because untested dyes on colored sheets can bleed.
White vinegarSkipLeave it out. White vinegar can weaken cotton and change color, and the steps don't need it.
Baking sodaSkipA scrubbing powder works against blotting, and marker spreads when it's rubbed. Skip baking soda on sheets and blot instead of scrubbing.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)SkipPeroxide isn't needed, and it is unsafe on colored sheets that aren't colorfast. Oxygen bleach covers the faint shadow instead.
Dish soapSkipSkip dish soap; alcohol and a pre-wash remover handle this marker instead. Keep dish soap off silk and other delicate fabrics.

Chemical safety

Never mix these

Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.

Oxygen bleach (OxiClean) + Rubbing alcohol

OxiClean's maker says it should not be mixed with household chemicals other than detergent in the wash.

If they mix by accident: Don't use the mixture; ventilate the room and avoid breathing fumes or touching it; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 for disposal advice or if anyone feels unwell.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't use chlorine bleach on marker

Chlorine bleach isn't for washable-marker stains, so leave it out of this job entirely. Alcohol, a pre-wash remover and all-fabric oxygen bleach are the safer choices instead.

Don't rub the ink with bar soap

Bar soap sets many stains, so keep it away from a fresh mark. A pre-wash spot-and-stain remover is the right tool once the alcohol has done its work.

Don't pour solvent straight onto the sheet

Pouring alcohol or acetone on the mark pushes the ink outward and can spread it across the weave. Dab a small amount onto a clean cloth and work from the back of the fabric, moving from the edge of the mark inward. Turn the cloth often so each dab lifts ink onto a clean section.

Don't use a dissolving solvent on synthetic blends

Acetone dissolves acetate, triacetate and modacrylic, so a blend containing them can be ruined in one pass. Check the fiber content on the care label before you reach for any solvent. Test the solvent on a hidden seam first, and stop if the fabric changes.

Don't leave a pretreatment on past the label

Liquid pretreatments and gels can fade or shift the color of bright and fluorescent fabric if they sit too long. Set a timer for the label's time, and keep gels on bright items to a few minutes at most. Rinse thoroughly before you move on to the next product.

When to call a professional

A dry cleaner is the better call for a dry-clean-only label, silk, or a mark that spreads across a large area of the sheet. Give them the fiber content from the label, say it was marker, and list any solvents or removers you've already used.

Questions

How do I know if my marker is washable?

Check the packaging or the marker's label first. Washable markers are made to come out in water, while permanent markers are not, so if nothing is printed, treat the ink as permanent and pretest the alcohol.

Can I use acetone on marker stains in sheets?

Only if you know the sheet isn't acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, because acetone dissolves those fibers. If you don't know the fiber, skip it and use rubbing alcohol after a pretest.

What should I do with a silk sheet?

Skip the rubbing alcohol and oxygen bleach, since silk can't take either. Blot the ink with a dry white cloth and take the sheet to a dry cleaner promptly, telling them the fiber and the marker.

Can I use milk to lift marker ink?

No. Milk adds a protein stain or sets the one you already have, so it makes the sheet harder to clean.

Does a hot wash help if a faint mark is still there?

Not as a first step. Hot water can set the ink in place, so a faint mark can end up permanent after one hot cycle. Repeat the solvent and rinse steps until nothing transfers, and wash hot only after the sheet is clear.

Can oxygen bleach lift the last shadow on a colored sheet?

Yes, as a last step on a faint shadow, but only if the care label allows bleach. Oxygen bleach is the gentler option on colors, and it still needs a hidden-area test first. Stop as soon as the color looks even, and rinse the sheet thoroughly before it goes to the dryer.

Is it still worth trying if marker has been through the dryer?

Sometimes not, and that's the honest answer. Permanent marker that has dried, or been dried in the dryer, may not come out fully. Still, run the solvent and pre-wash steps before you give up, because a faint trace can sometimes lift.

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Start from the bigger picture

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. University of Georgia Extension
  2. Crayola
  3. American Cleaning Institute
  4. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension
  5. New Mexico State University Extension
  6. University of Kentucky Extension