How to Remove Latex Paint Stains

Quick answer

Sponge the spot with cool water, dab in a heavy-duty liquid detergent, then pretreat and wash the garment. Keep it out of the dryer until the stain is completely gone, since heat can set it for good.

Start the steps

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First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Treat the stain while the paint is still wet.
  2. Sponge with cool water, dab in detergent and rinse.
  3. Soak in cool water if any paint is left.
  4. Keep the garment out of the dryer until the stain is gone.

Latex paint on a shirt or a pair of jeans is water-based, so it lifts out far more easily while it's still wet. Once it has dried for 6 to 8 hours, removal becomes very difficult, and the stain may become permanent. If it's already dry, you'll need a different approach, and it may not come out completely.

Removing dried latex paint from clothing needs a patch test on a hidden seam, so you know the dye holds. Getting latex paint out of jeans goes better with a prewash stain remover stick than with a hard scrub. Once you've loosened the paint, rinse the spot with cool water before the item goes near the dryer.

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What you'll need

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5 steps

How to get latex paint out of clothes

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  1. Step 1 of 5

    Rinse the wet paint out

    Sponge the spot with cool water, then dab a little liquid detergent into it with a fingertip. Rinse from the back of the fabric so the paint is pushed out rather than deeper in.

    Tip. Work from the edge of the stain toward the middle so it doesn't spread.

  2. Step 2 of 5

    Pretreat with a prewash remover

    Work a commercial prewash spot and stain remover into the stain and let it sit as its label directs. Keep the product on the stained area only.

    Careful. Test any product on a hidden spot first, and follow the care label.

  3. Step 3 of 5

    Wash in heavy-duty detergent

    Launder the garment in heavy-duty liquid detergent so the wash finishes lifting what the pretreat loosened. Let the full cycle run before you check the spot.

    Careful. Use the wash temperature on the care label; if the label is missing, use cool water.

  4. Step 4 of 5

    Soak any paint that remains

    If paint is still visible after the wash, soak the spot in cool water until the paint loosens. Then launder the garment again in the same detergent.

    Tip. Swish the water gently rather than scrubbing the spot.

  5. Step 5 of 5

    Check the spot before drying

    Look at the stain in good light from both sides once the garment is out of the wash. If any paint shows, go back to the soak and launder again before the garment is dried.

If you'd rather buy than mix

Best products for latex paint

Choose a commercial prewash spot and stain remover for the pretreat, and a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent for the wash.

How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on this fabric, and its directions fit the steps above.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

How to tell it's working

A good sign is paint coming off onto the cloth with each dab, and the rinse water running clearer every time. If the spot looks paler but still has a faint film, keep going through the soak rather than stopping early.

What changes for yours

Adjust for your fabric

Whites and white shirts

On white cotton and linen, the steps stay the same, but the wash can run at the warmest temperature the care label allows. An oxygen bleach soak is a safe add-on for these fabrics, as long as you follow the container directions and don't leave it longer than it says.

Skip chlorine bleach, even on whites; it doesn't belong in the paint treatment. Keep any bleach soak short, since over-soaking can leave yellow stains that won't come out.

Colors and denim

Colored fabric and denim should get cool water at the rinse stage, with the wash at the temperature the care label allows. Check colorfast on a hidden spot before any alcohol or oxygen bleach soak, since those can fade dye.

Polyester and other synthetics can't take high heat, so keep them away from the dryer and iron while any paint remains. Stick to the cool water rinse and detergent steps first, since fresh paint usually lifts this way.

Silk, wool and delicates

Silk and wool can't take rubbing, agitation or enzyme detergent, so blot gently with cool water and keep them out of the washing machine. Chlorine and oxygen bleach are off the table, and any solvent step should be used with care.

Velvet should never be ironed, and an heirloom textile should never go through a washing machine, even on a gentle cycle.

Dry-clean-only items

Dry-clean-only pieces shouldn't go through home washing at all, and oxygen bleach products are off the table. Blot the wet paint with cool water, keep the spot damp rather than soaked, and take the garment to a dry cleaner as soon as you can.

Tell the cleaner it's latex paint and how long it sat, since that changes the solvent they choose. Mention any stain that has already been through the dryer, too.

Old, dried or set-in stains

Once latex paint has dried for 6 to 8 hours, removal becomes very difficult, and some of it may never come out completely. Start by scraping off any loose excess so you don't press it deeper into the fabric.

Next, try a 10 to 15 minute soak in 70% isopropyl alcohol and wash as usual. Another option is a dry-cleaning-type solvent used per its label, with liquid laundry detergent worked in and left for 10 to 15 minutes.

If the stain has already been through the dryer, expect only partial results. An oxygen bleach soak, mixed per the container, can help on white or colorfast cotton and linen, and it should never be left longer than the directions say. If paint still shows after all this, a dry cleaner is the realistic next step.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on latex paint?

Plenty of household remedies get passed around for paint, but most don't suit latex on clothes. Soap and heavy-duty liquid detergent are the ones worth using on latex paint.

Helps1Skip5

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
Rubbing alcoholGet it on Amazon HelpsIsopropyl alcohol can loosen dried paint in a 10 to 15 minute soak, after a hidden-spot test. Never use it on silk, acetate, acrylic or colored fabric you haven't tested.
White vinegarSkipSkip vinegar; cool water and detergent are the right approach for latex. Stick with cool water and detergent, the steps that apply to latex.
Baking sodaSkipBaking soda is a scrubbing cleanser for hard surfaces, and it's rough on fabric you haven't tested. Scrubbing it into paint can spread the stain.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)SkipPeroxide can change the color of fabric that isn't colorfast, and the stronger hair-bleaching kind is never an option. Stick with the detergent steps instead.
Dish soapSkipLaundry detergent does the first dab here, so leave dish soap out. Keep it away from silk, velvet and other delicate fabrics in any case.
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)SkipSkip oxygen bleach for regular latex stains; it's only for stubborn marks on white or colorfast cotton and linen. It's only an option for stubborn stains on white or colorfast cotton and linen, mixed per the container directions. Keep it off wool, silk, leather and colored fabric that isn't colorfast.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't let the paint dry on the garment.

Latex paint can become permanent once it dries, and after 6 to 8 hours removal is very difficult. If you can't treat it right away, keep the spot damp with cool water until you can.

Don't put the garment in the dryer or iron it.

Heat sets the stain, and it may become impossible to remove. Hang the garment to dry only after you've confirmed the paint is gone.

Don't rub or brush at the stain.

Rubbing pushes paint deeper into the weave and can damage delicate fibers. Dab and press instead, and don't let the spot get soaked through.

Don't use bar soap on a fresh stain.

Bar soap sets many stains, so keep it away from the pretreat. Liquid detergent does the job without that risk.

Don't use rubbing alcohol on silk, acetate or untested colors.

Alcohol can fade colored fabric and damage acetate, triacetate, modacrylic, acrylic and silk. Only use it in the dried-paint soak after you've checked a hidden spot.

Don't use solvent in a closed room.

Dry-clean-type solvents need a well-ventilated room, and they should stay away from open flame. Read the label before you open the bottle.

When to call a professional

If the paint has dried for more than 6 to 8 hours and the stain is still there after the set-in options, a professional cleaner is the safer call. Tell them it's latex paint and how long it sat, since that changes the solvent they pick. A professional is also the right choice for any garment you'd rather not risk at home.

Questions

Can you still remove latex paint from clothes once it has dried?

Sometimes, but dried latex is much harder and some of it may never fully come out. Scrape off the loose paint, then try the alcohol soak or a solvent used per its label before washing as usual. If it still won't budge, a dry cleaner is the next step.

How do I get rid of wall paint smell on clothes?

Wash the garment in heavy-duty liquid detergent at the temperature the care label allows, then let it air dry. Keep it out of the dryer until both the paint and the smell are gone, since heat sets stains.

Can latex paint come out of jeans?

Yes, if you act while the paint is still wet. Cool water, detergent and a prewash handle most fresh paint on denim. Dried paint on jeans needs the stronger options, and the alcohol soak must be pretested on a hidden spot, since it can fade dye.

Can I use bleach on latex paint on white clothes?

Oxygen bleach can help on white or colorfast cotton and linen, mixed per the container and never left longer than its directions say. Skip chlorine bleach.

Is rubbing alcohol safe for latex paint on fabric?

It can help dried paint on washable fabric, in a 10 to 15 minute soak after a hidden-spot test. It isn't safe on silk, acetate, acrylic or colored fabric you haven't tested, so check the fabric first.

Will latex paint come out of silk or wool?

Sometimes, if you act fast, but silk and wool need gentle handling. Blot with cool water, don't rub, and skip enzyme detergent, chlorine bleach and oxygen bleach. Dry-clean-only silk or wool should go straight to a cleaner.

Related

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. University of Georgia Extension
  2. Iowa State University Extension
  3. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension
  4. Cornell Cooperative Extension
  5. Tide
  6. Rust-Oleum