How to Remove Chewing Gum Stains

Quick answer

Harden the gum with ice until it is hard, then scrape off the bulk with a dull tool. Dab the rest with a dry-cleaning-type spot remover on a clean white cloth, then rinse and launder.

Start the steps

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First few minutes

Just happened? Do this first

  1. Ice the gum until it's hard or frozen.
  2. Scrape the brittle gum off with a dull tool.
  3. Dab what's left with a dry-cleaning-type spot remover on a clean white cloth.

Chewing gum doesn't soak into fabric. It sits on top, and once it cures it bonds to the fibers, so cured gum is harder to lift than fresh gum. Gum is handled with dry-cleaning solvent and oily lubricants rather than water, so plan on a solvent step once the bulk is off.

Freeze the gum fully before you scrape, because a half-frozen wad smears into the fabric. Gum on jeans and denim, and bubble gum on clothes, lifts with a prewash stain spray dabbed on any sticky film left behind. Dried, hardened gum on clothes needs more patience, so check the area before it goes in the wash.

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What you'll need

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6 steps

Step by step

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  1. Step 1 of 6

    Harden the gum with ice

    Hold an ice cube on the gum until it is hard or frozen. Hard gum breaks off in pieces, so you can remove most of it before any solvent touches the fabric.

  2. Step 2 of 6

    Scrape off the brittle gum

    Scrape the hardened gum with a dull tool, such as a plastic spoon, the blade of a table knife or the edge of a plastic credit card. Work from the outside of the spot toward the middle, and keep going while pieces still break off.

    Careful. Don't gouge the fabric or scrape hard enough to distort it. If the gum won't come off easily, freeze it again rather than pressing harder.

  3. Step 3 of 6

    Dab on dry-cleaning spot remover

    Pretest the spot remover on a hidden part of the fabric first. Then dampen a clean white cloth with it and dab the remaining residue, turning the cloth to a clean part as it picks up gum.

    Careful. Work in a ventilated area with no open flame.

  4. Step 4 of 6

    Blot the residue face down

    Place the stain face down on clean paper towels, then sponge it with a little spot remover and blot from the back. Replace the towels often, since each one picks up gum and can move it back onto the fabric.

  5. Step 5 of 6

    Rinse, then launder

    Rinse the item thoroughly to clear out the solvent and any loosened residue. Then launder it as the care label allows.

  6. Step 6 of 6

    Check before drying

    Once the item is dry, look at the spot in good light. If any residue or shadow shows, go back to the blotting step before anything else.

    Careful. Heat from the dryer sets the stain and makes it more permanent, so keep the item out until the spot is gone.

If you'd rather buy than mix

Best products for chewing gum

Get a dry-cleaning-type spot remover, the product type that works on gum residue. Buy a small bottle so you can pretest it first.

How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on these surfaces, and its directions fit the steps above.

Finished the steps? How does it look?

Pick what it is on

Chewing Gum on every material

Leather & suede1

Furniture & upholstery1

How to tell it's working

The gum should lift in pieces or come away on the cloth, with no tacky feel left. When the spot looks clean and feels smooth in good light, the steps have done their job. A faint shadow means one more round of blotting with a fresh cloth.

What changes for yours

Adjust for where the stain is

Jeans, pants, trousers and denim

Denim and other thick cotton hold gum in the weave, so the scraping step often leaves a thin film behind. Work the spot remover from the back of the fabric with a cloth, and repeat the blotting until nothing transfers.

Thick fabric also takes more patience, so give the gum time to harden fully before you scrape. Check the pocket seams and cuffs too, since gum often ends up in the folds.

Bubble gum

Bubble gum is handled the same way as chewing gum, so the ice, scrape and solvent steps all apply. The colored dye is what makes it different, so pretest the spot remover on a hidden area and watch for color moving onto the cloth.

If a colored smudge stays after the gum is gone, let the item air-dry and look again in good light. Repeat the blotting with a fresh cloth if the color is still lifting.

Gum residue

A residue is the thin film left after most of the gum is gone, and it is the part the solvent step is for. It can look like a faint shadow or a tacky patch.

Blot it with a fresh cloth and fresh paper towels underneath, and keep going until nothing transfers. Stop once the spot looks clean and feels smooth in good light.

Shirts, dresses and polyester

Shirts and dresses are often lighter fabric, so keep the spot remover small and blot instead of rubbing. A dress with lining or a shirt with a seam can react differently, so pretest the solvent on a hidden seam first.

Work quickly on polyester and other synthetics, and don't let the solvent sit on the spot between passes. Rinse the item thoroughly afterward so no solvent is left on the fabric.

Fast or chewed gum

The fastest route is the ice and scrape steps, since they remove most gum before any solvent goes on. Don't skip the ice to save time, because soft gum smears and spreads.

Stuck or chewed-in gum needs more ice and more scraping, not more solvent, so keep the solvent for the thin film left behind. If the gum is still firm after the first round, freeze it again before you try the next pass.

Melted or smeared gum

Melted or smeared gum has spread into the fibers, so it won't scrape off in one piece. Freeze it again first so it firms up, then scrape the outer edges before the center.

Lift the smear with small amounts of solvent on a clean cloth, working from the edges inward so the gum doesn't spread. Blot and check the fabric in good light before you move on.

Old, dried or set-in stains

Old gum that has hardened on fabric needs the ice and scrape steps first, then a stronger treatment. Gum that has already been washed or dried is set deeper, so expect more passes than you would for a fresh spot.

Sponge the spot with dry-cleaning solvent, then lay a pad under the fabric and work a dry spotter into the spot. The spotter is 1 part coconut or mineral oil to 8 parts dry-cleaning solvent, and the pad should stay moist with it. Press hard and check every 5 minutes, and keep going while the stain still lifts.

Finish by sponging the spot with solvent and letting it air-dry. If gum still shows, lubricate it with lard or mineral oil and flush it with dry-cleaning solvent, alternating until it's gone. Be realistic: a dried-on spot can take several rounds, and a faint shadow may stay on some fabrics.

Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more

Do home remedies work on chewing gum?

Plenty of household ideas circulate for gum, from vinegar and toothpaste to peanut butter and ice. Ice does the hardening, and the other ideas either miss gum or can harm some fabrics.

Works1Skip6

RemedyVerdictWhat to know
Ice / freezingWorksIce is the first step: hold a cube on the gum until it's hard or frozen, then scrape it off.
White vinegarSkipSkip vinegar; the ice, scrape and solvent sequence does the job instead.
ToothpasteSkipSkip toothpaste; buffing can leave a different sheen on wood finish, so a dry-cleaning-type spot remover does the job.
Baking sodaSkipSkip baking soda; it can damage fabric, and a dry-cleaning-type spot remover handles the gum.
Hydrogen peroxide (3%)SkipSkip peroxide; colored fabric that isn't colorfast can be harmed by it. Use the solvent sequence instead.
Dish soapSkipSkip dish soap; the solvent sequence does the lifting on gum.
Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)SkipSkip oxygen bleach; it's unsafe on wool, silk and colored fabric that isn't colorfast.

What makes it worse

Mistakes to avoid

Don't pour solvent onto the stain.

Poured solvent soaks through the fabric and can reach the backing. Dab it on with a cloth a little at a time instead.

Don't soak the fabric in solvent.

Too much solvent can break down the fabric and any padding beneath it. Keep the wet area small and blot off the excess as you go.

Don't use gasoline, lighter fluid or benzene.

Skip flammable solvents; they can ignite from a spark or friction. Stick to a dry-cleaning-type spot remover instead.

Troubleshooting

If the stain is still there

Pick what you're seeing:

The gum smears instead of snapping off

It isn't cold enough. Hold the ice on longer, or bag the ice and leave it in place, then try the dull edge again. Don't wipe soft gum with a cloth, which only spreads it into the weave.

The lump is gone but the spot still looks dark

That is residue, and it is the solvent's job. Dab with a dry-cleaning-type spot remover on a clean white cloth, working from the outside in, then let it dry before you judge the result.

You are treating carpet or upholstery and worry about wetting it

Bag the ice, apply the solvent to the cloth rather than the carpet, and keep the area barely damp. If the furniture maker's cleaning instructions rule out solvent, stop there.

When to call a professional

If the gum is on a delicate, expensive or dry-clean-only piece, a professional cleaner can run the solvent step with more control. Take it in before you've tried several rounds at home.

Questions

What removes gum from clothes?

A dry-cleaning-type spot remover removes what's left of the gum once it has been hardened with ice and scraped off. Apply it to a clean white cloth rather than the stain itself, and blot until the residue lifts.

Are there gum removers made for clothes?

Yes, a dry-cleaning-type spot remover is the product type made for this job. Pick one whose label lists dry-cleaning solvent, since that's the active ingredient.

Does ice work on gum on fabric?

Yes, ice is the first step and the safest one to start with. Hold a cube on the gum until it's hard or frozen, then scrape it off with a dull tool.

Do vinegar or toothpaste get gum out?

No, skip both and rely on ice, scraping and dry-cleaning solvent instead. Peanut butter and other greasy kitchen items are outside the steps too.

Can I use the same steps on a shirt or dress?

Yes, with a pretest on a hidden seam first, since the fabric can react differently. Keep the solvent to the spot and blot rather than rub, so the garment keeps its shape.

Does gum come out after the item has been washed?

It can, but it's harder, because washing and drying set the residue deeper. Start with ice and scraping, then move to the set-in method with a dry spotter.

What if a faint mark stays after the steps?

A faint shadow can remain on some fabrics. Go over it once more with a clean cloth and a little spot remover, then let it air-dry and check again in good light.

Related

How we know this

Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.

  1. Carpet and Rug Institute
  2. Clorox
  3. Cornell Cooperative Extension
  4. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension
  5. University of Georgia Extension