First few minutes
Just happened? Do this first
- Gasoline is flammable: work in good ventilation and keep open flames away.
- Blot up what you can with paper towels or a clean white cloth, and don't rub.
- Lay the clothes outside to air before they go into a washer, not a dryer.
Gasoline on clothes is a fire risk first, so air the item outdoors and keep it away from flames and heat before you wash it. Removing gasoline and diesel stains from clothes is slower than most stains, because the fuel needs more than a plain rinse and treatment may take a few rounds. Fresh stains respond better than old ones, and dry-clean-only items should go to a professional promptly, so check the label first.
Pretreat the mark with a prewash stain remover spray or enzyme laundry pretreater before it goes in the washer. If you're trying to wash diesel out of clothes, a second cycle with the same pretreatment often does more than one pass. Keep the item out of the dryer until the gas smell is gone, because heat can set whatever is left.
Before you start
What clothes can take
Safe to use3
- Water
- Soaking
- Enzyme cleaners
Use with care6
- Hot water
- Chlorine bleach
- Oxygen bleach
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid1
- Heat, once the stain is out
8 items
What you'll need
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- Paper towels or a clean white clothTo blot up as much of the fuel as you can. (opens Amazon)
- Dull knifeTo scrape off any solids without pushing them deeper.
- Liquid laundry detergentTo work into the stain and to use in the wash. (opens Amazon)
- Enzyme laundry presoakFor the overnight soak if the stain stays. (opens Amazon)
- Pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solventFor the spot treatment from the wrong side. (opens Amazon)
- All-fabric (oxygen) bleachFor colorfast fabrics only, after a test. (opens Amazon)
- Dilute chlorine bleachOnly as the very last step, on colorfast items where the label allows it. (opens Amazon)
- Rust removerOnly if you suspect rust, and before any bleach. (opens Amazon)
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7 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 7
Blot up and air the item
Work somewhere well ventilated. Blot up as much as you can with paper towels or a clean white cloth, scraping any solids off with a dull knife. Don't use colored cloths or sponges, since they can bleed dye, and don't rub.
Tip. Lay the item outside to air before it goes into a washer.
Careful. Gasoline is flammable; keep open flames, pilot lights and smoking well away.
Step 2 of 7
Check the label and test
Start with the care label. If it says dry-clean only, don't try this at home; take the item to a dry cleaner promptly.
If it's washable, try whatever product you plan to use on a hidden seam or hem first. Skip that product if the color shifts or the fabric gets damaged.
Step 3 of 730 minutes
Soak in cold water
Soak the item in cold water for about 30 minutes. Stay with cold water even if the stain looks light, since you don't yet know what it is.
Careful. Hot water can set protein stains such as milk, egg or blood.
Step 4 of 730 minutes
Work in liquid detergent
Gently rub a little liquid laundry detergent into the stain and let it sit about 30 minutes, then rinse. Next, wash the item with liquid laundry detergent on the warmest setting the label allows. Rinse it well and air-dry it.
Careful. Don't rub a fresh stain with bar soap; soap sets many stains.
Step 5 of 7
Try an enzyme presoak
If the stain is still there, soak the item overnight in an enzyme laundry presoak, then wash it again. Let it air-dry and check the spot before you go any further.
Step 6 of 7
Pretreat and use oxygen bleach
Still there? Dab a pretreatment spray or dry-cleaning solvent on the spot from the wrong side.
After that, you can try an all-fabric (oxygen) bleach, but only on fabric that passed a colorfast test. Think it might be rust? Use a rust remover before any bleach.
Careful. Leave pretreatments on no longer than recommended; unstable dyes can change color or fade.
Step 7 of 7
Last, try dilute chlorine bleach
Only as a last step, after everything is rinsed out, and only if the item is colorfast to chlorine bleach and the label allows it. Use a dilute solution following the package directions. Don't use chlorine on rust stains, which it makes more intense or permanent.
Careful. Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia, vinegar or other cleaners.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for gasoline on clothes
Look for a liquid laundry detergent, an enzyme laundry presoak and a prewash stain remover spray or stick. Test any of them on a hidden seam first, and check the care label before you use them.
Puracy Laundry Stain Remover
ECOS OXO Brite Stain & Odor Remover Pre-Wash Spray
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on clothes, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light before using any heat. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
See what to do for what you're seeing →If the stain was already dried or set, the method changes.
Old, dried or set-in stains →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
Check the spot while it's still damp, before the item goes anywhere near a dryer. If any stain or smell is left, go back to the detergent wash or the enzyme presoak rather than skipping ahead.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your clothes
Jeans and work clothes
Jeans and work clothes are often dyed and heavy, so colorfast testing matters more than usual. Do the hidden-seam test before any bleach, and skip the chlorine step unless the label clearly allows it.
Work clothes that soaked in fuel should air outside before they go into the washer. The overnight enzyme presoak is the step to use if the spot is still there after the first wash. Jeans with a stubborn spot can take the full sequence, so work through it one step at a time.
Colored and bright fabrics
Colored and bright fabrics can lose their color, so the hidden-seam test matters most here. Use oxygen bleach only if the fabric has passed a colorfast test, and skip chlorine bleach unless the label says the item is colorfast.
Pretreatment gels should come off after a few minutes on bright or fluorescent items. If the color shifts at any point, stop and rinse the item before trying anything else.
Wool, silk and mohair
Wool and silk can't take oxygen bleach, and wool, silk and mohair can't take chlorine bleach. Stick to the cold soak and liquid detergent, and keep the wash gentle.
If the stain is still there after the presoak, take the item to a dry cleaner instead of trying a stronger treatment at home. Tell them the fiber and what the stain was.
Spandex and stretch fabric
Spandex and stretch blends can't take chlorine bleach, so skip the last step on them. Use oxygen bleach only after a colorfast test on a hidden seam.
Work through the cold soak and detergent wash first, and let the enzyme presoak handle a stain that stays. Blot rather than rub, as with any fabric.
Acetate and triacetate
Never use acetone or nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, since acetate dissolves. Test the spot treatment on a hidden seam first.
If a stain is still there after the presoak, take the item to a dry cleaner and point out the fiber and the stain. Modacrylic follows the same rule, so keep those removers away from it too.
Old, dried or set-in stains
Fresh gasoline comes out far more easily than old gasoline, so a stain that's been sitting needs extra time and more rounds. With old or oxidized oil, work lard or mineral oil into the spot, tap it in with a brush or spoon, and flush it with dry-cleaning solvent. Keep cycling through those steps until the stain disappears.
Dried spot? Scrape off any crusty bits before soaking.
Oil stains tend to get darker as they age. If the first round doesn't get it all, do it again.
If the item has gone through the dryer, the heat has most likely set the stain, and you may not be able to fix it at home. When the stain still shows after the overnight presoak and the pretreatment, take the item to a dry cleaner and show them where the stain is.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on gasoline on clothes?
You'll find plenty of home remedies for fuel stains. Liquid detergent, an enzyme presoak and oxygen bleach already cover the job, so the rest only partly help. Here's where each one fits.
Works1Helps1Skip4
Chemical safety
Never mix these
Some products in this guide react dangerously with each other. Use them one at a time and rinse with water in between.
Chlorine bleach + Oxygen bleach (OxiClean)
Both makers advise against combining them: OxiClean says not to mix it with chlorine bleach, and Clorox says the two bleaches cancel each other out.
If they mix by accident: Don't use the mixture; ventilate the room and avoid breathing fumes or touching it; call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 for disposal advice or if anyone feels unwell.
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't dry or iron it until the stain is gone
Heat sets the stain and can make it impossible to remove. Keep the item out of the dryer and away from the iron until the stain has gone.
Don't use gasoline or lighter fluid as a remover
Both are flammable, and neither is a stain remover. Use dry-cleaning solvent from the wrong side, and keep open flames far from the work.
Don't use bleach at full strength
Undiluted bleach can weaken fabric so it tears or wears out sooner. Stick to the dilute solution in the last step and check the label first.
Don't pour solvent straight onto carpet
Solvent can dissolve carpet backing, so keep it to the fabric and use the spot technique. If the spill landed on carpet, the Carpet & Rugs guide covers it.
Troubleshooting
If the stain is still there
Pick what you're seeing:
The fuel smell is still strong after washing
Air the garment outside again and repeat the detergent pretreatment and wash. Keep it out of the dryer until the odor is gone.
An oily ring remains after the wash
Spot-treat from the wrong side with a dry-cleaning solvent or pretreatment spray, let it evaporate outdoors, and wash again.
The test seam changed color
Stop using that product on the garment. Rely on detergent alone or take it to a dry cleaner.
Other clothes in the load smell of fuel
Rewash those items separately with liquid detergent and air-dry them before machine drying.
When to call a professional
If the label says dry-clean only, get the item to a dry cleaner promptly and tell them it was gasoline. Washable clothes can go too when the stain is large, the piece is bulky, or the fabric is fragile. Suede, leather and fur trim need a cleaner who specializes in those materials.
Questions
Does gasoline or diesel stain clothes?
Yes, both can leave a visible mark, and it gets harder to remove once it has been heated. Blot it up first, then follow the steps in order and stop when the stain is gone.
Will gasoline or diesel come out of clothes?
It can on washable fabric, but how well it comes out depends on how long it sat and whether it has been heated. Start with the cold soak and detergent wash, and move to the overnight presoak only if the stain stays.
How do you safely remove gasoline from clothes?
Work somewhere well ventilated, blot without rubbing, and air the item outside before it goes near a washer or dryer. Then follow the cold soak and detergent wash, and use a stronger treatment only if the stain stays.
Can I put fuel-soaked clothes in the dryer?
No. Air the item outside and wash it first, and dry it only after the stain has gone.
Heat can set the fuel so it's harder or impossible to remove, so the dryer is the last place it should go. Check the spot in good light before it goes anywhere near the machine.
Can I wash diesel out of clothes in the washing machine?
Yes, for washable items. Blot first, soak in cold water, work in liquid laundry detergent, then wash at the warmest temperature the label allows and let it air-dry. Dry-clean-only items go to a dry cleaner instead.
Can I use chlorine bleach on a gasoline stain?
Only as a last step, and only on colorfast items whose label allows it. Rinse everything out first and use a dilute solution, following the package directions.
How do I get the gasoline smell out of jeans?
Air the jeans outside first, then wash them in liquid laundry detergent at the warmest temperature the label allows. Let them air-dry and check for the smell before deciding on a stronger step.
Can I use the same steps for fuel oil or red diesel?
Start with the same gentle steps: blot, check the label, soak in cold water, then wash in detergent. Move to the stronger treatments only if the stain stays.
Methods, care labels and related guides
Good to know
Odor guides
Still smells?
Gasoline on other materials
Other stains on clothes
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.