Prep first
Before you start
- Rinse a fresh splash with plenty of plain water.
- Wear goggles and gloves and work in fresh air when handling pool chemicals.
- If you need to pre-dissolve a pool chemical, add the chemical to the water, never water to the chemical.
Chlorine or pool chemicals on a sink usually strip color from the finish rather than adding anything on top, so a bleached spot is often permanent. Acrylic and enameled cast iron respond differently to cleaners, and a dull or scratched acrylic surface needs repair rather than more scrubbing. Blue-green marks around a sink come from dissolved copper, a separate problem that chlorine cleanup won't fix.
If you're trying to remove metal stains from porcelain sink, test any cleaner on a hidden spot first. Rubbing hard on a porcelain surface can leave a dull ring that's harder to fix than the stain. If the mark won't budge after a gentle pass, a pro can tell you whether it needs a different treatment.
Before you start
What sinks can take
Safe to use1
- Water
Use with care4
- Soaking
- Chlorine bleach
- Acids (vinegar, lemon)
- Scrubbing and abrasives
Avoid1
- Solvents (alcohol, spot removers)
7 items
What you'll need
Tap an item to get it on Amazon, or tick what you already have.
- Plain waterRinses loose residue away before you touch the mark.
- Soft sponge or clothWipes the surface gently and can be dampened for each pass. (opens Amazon)
- Mild soapThe first cleaner for vitreous china, used with warm water. (opens Amazon)
- General-purpose cleaner listed for your sink materialFor heavier soil, after the gentle wipe has failed. (opens Amazon)
- GogglesProtect you if any pool chemical is nearby. (opens Amazon)
- Gloves (opens Amazon)
- Dry soft clothBlots the sink dry at the end. (opens Amazon)
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Rinse the sink with plain water
Flush the sink with plenty of plain water first, so loose residue is gone before you touch the mark. A fresh splash rinses off most easily, so don't wait on it.
Step 2 of 6
Test on a hidden spot
Pick a spot that won't show, such as the inside of the basin near the drain. Rinse it and look at the spot before you go further.
Tip. Test with the same cleaner you plan to use on the mark.
Step 3 of 6
Wipe with mild soap and water
Wet a soft sponge or cloth in warm water with a little mild soap, then wipe the mark gently. On vitreous china, this is the right first wipe. If you can't tell what your sink is made of, stop here and use only water and mild soap.
Step 4 of 6
Use a general cleaner for heavy soil
If the mark is still heavy after the wipe, use a general-purpose cleaner listed for your sink material. Rinse completely right after applying it, and don't let it sit or soak on the finish.
Tip. Rinse overspray off nearby surfaces as you go.
Step 5 of 6
Blot the sink dry
Blot the basin dry with a soft cloth to finish. Don't rub hard, since the surface should only be patted dry.
Step 6 of 6
Check the mark in good light
Look at the spot in daylight or a bright lamp to see whether the mark is gone. If it's faint, one more gentle pass is enough. If it's still there, the stronger option in the set-in section is next.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for chlorine on sinks
Pick a general-purpose cleaner labeled for your sink material. Read the label before you buy and follow its directions, and test it on a hidden spot first.
Amazon Basics Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on sinks, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
Heavy buildup usually takes more than one round.
Heavy or long-standing buildup →When to call a professional →How to tell it's working
A cleaned sink shows an even finish, with no blue-green tint in the basin and no dull patch where the cleaner sat. If the surface looks uniform and feels smooth after blotting, the job is done.
What changes for yours
Adjust for your sinks
Enameled cast iron sink
Enameled cast iron can take a little more than the other finishes, but only with care. Use a soft abrasive cleaner sparingly, always with water, and skip steel wool, wire brushes and abrasive pads.
Let the gentle steps run first, and only then reach for the stronger option. Rinse the sink completely after any stronger product before anything else touches it.
Acrylic sink
Acrylic is the most delicate of these finishes, so keep every step gentle. Skip abrasive cleansers and solvents, and keep full-strength bleach off the surface.
Wipe with a soft cloth and mild soap, not a scouring pad. Rinse the surface completely so no film is left, and blot it dry.
Vitreous china sink
Vitreous china follows the steps closely, with mild soap and warm water for the first passes. A general cleaner is the next step only if the mark is heavy.
Strong abrasive cleaners scratch and dull this surface, so keep them off. Rinse well after any cleaner, and dry the basin when you finish.
Sink with an unknown finish
If you can't tell what the sink is made of, don't guess. Stick to plain water and mild soap, and test on a hidden spot before anything else.
Hold off on abrasive cleaners and the general cleaner until you know the finish. Ask the sink's maker or read its label before choosing anything stronger.
Heavy or long-standing buildup
A mark that has been on the sink for a while may not lift with one quick wipe. Run the full steps again before you move up to anything stronger.
On enameled cast iron or vitreous china only, a soft abrasive cleaner can be used sparingly, always with water. Rinse it away completely, and don't let it dry on the finish.
If the mark is still there after that, a professional is the realistic next step, since stronger products put the finish at risk. Occasional rust on enameled cast iron is the one exception, and a rust remover made for enamel can handle it when used alone and rinsed well.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on chlorine on sinks?
Most home remedies were built for fabric, not sinks, so only a few belong here. Water and mild soap handle most marks, with a general-purpose cleaner saved for heavier ones. Skip anything beyond water, mild soap and a general-purpose cleaner, since the rest is built for fabric.
Skip5Avoid1
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't add vinegar or acid to chlorine
Never add acid or vinegar to chlorine, and never mix pool chemicals with each other or with any other product, because toxic gas can form. If you're unsure what's on the sink, rinse the area with plenty of plain water first.
Don't use ammonia on vitreous china
Ammonia cleaners can damage the finish on vitreous china, and ammonia and chlorine bleach must never be mixed. Stick with mild soap and warm water for the first passes.
Don't use metal spoons or containers with bleach
Keep metal spoons and metal containers out of any bleach solution, and use plastic or glass instead. Skip bleach on a metal mark, since metal and bleach shouldn't mix.
Don't leave overspray on nearby surfaces
Rinse overspray off nearby surfaces right away, including the faucet. Cleaners containing ammonia, bleach or acid don't belong on PVD faucet finishes.
Don't use aerosol cleaners on acrylic
Aerosol products are a poor choice for acrylic, so wipe with a soft cloth and a little mild soap instead. Rinse the surface completely afterward.
When to call a professional
If the mark stays after these steps and the sink is acrylic and dull or scratched, contact the manufacturer's customer service for repair. On enameled cast iron, improper care and cleaning can void the manufacturer's warranty, so check the terms before using a stronger product.
Questions
How do I remove metal stains from a porcelain sink?
Start by rinsing the sink with plenty of plain water, then test your cleaner on a hidden spot. On vitreous china, wipe with mild soap and warm water first, and use a general-purpose cleaner only if the mark is heavy. Rinse completely, then blot the sink dry.
Are blue-green stains around a sink from pool chemicals?
Blue-green marks are a different problem from chlorine stains. They usually come from dissolved copper, often from corrosive water attacking copper plumbing, so the water source matters as much as the cleaning.
Can I use bleach on my sink?
No, full-strength bleach doesn't belong on acrylic. If you ever use it on another surface, do so only after everything has been rinsed out. If you ever use chlorine bleach on another surface, do it only after everything has been rinsed out.
Can I use steel wool on the stain?
Not on cast iron or acrylic. Those abrasives are the wrong choice for both finishes, so start with the gentle steps first.
What if I can't tell what my sink is made of?
Stick to plain water and mild soap, and test on a hidden spot before anything stronger. Until you know the finish, leave out abrasive cleaners and the general cleaner.
Can I use rubbing alcohol on the sink?
Keep it off acrylic surfaces, and don't reach for it here. Mild soap, warm water and the general cleaner for heavier soil are the safer choices.
How do I fix a dull or scratched acrylic sink?
Contact the manufacturer's customer service for repair, since a cleaner can't restore a dull or scratched finish. Don't try to polish it with abrasives, because they damage acrylic. Keep the sink out of harsh cleaners while you wait for a repair.
Chlorine on other materials
Other stains on sinks
Start from the bigger picture
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.