Prep first
Before you start
- Check whether the haze is cement-based or epoxy first.
- Keep acid away from marble, limestone and travertine.
- Test a small hidden area before you treat the whole surface.
- Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection.
Cement haze on tile is the thin film of grout left behind by the final grouting step, and it's usually buffed off during the first 12 to 24 hours of curing. Once it has cured, only a mild acid will break it down. That same acid can etch marble, limestone, travertine and some glazed tile, so whether the tile is acid-resistant is what decides the approach.
Test any haze remover on a hidden corner of the tile first, and give it a few minutes before you judge the result. Fresh grout haze within 10 days is far easier to lift than cured haze, so don't let it sit. Epoxy grout and mortar smears on stone veneer each behave differently, so know what you're working with.
5 items
What you'll need
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- Cement haze removerAn acidic remover made for cured cement grout haze on acid-resistant tile.
- Nitrile gloves and eye protectionThe remover is a chemical, so protect your hands and eyes. (opens Amazon)
- White nylon bristle brushScrubs the haze in small areas. (opens Amazon)
- Plastic bucketHolds the water and solution; use plastic, not metal. (opens Amazon)
- Clean water and spongesYou need them to pre-wet the tile and to flush each section. (opens Amazon)
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6 steps
Step by step
Step 1 of 6
Identify the haze and the surface
Work out whether the haze is cement-based or epoxy, since each needs its own remover. Then check whether the tile is glazed or unglazed and what color the grout is, because both change how strong the mix should be.
Step 2 of 6
Test a small hidden spot
Pick a small area that's out of sight, like a corner by the wall or the spot under a fixture. Apply the remover there, scrub gently and rinse, then check the tile and grout once they're dry. Treat the whole surface only once the test spot looks right.
Tip. Use the same remover and dilution you plan to use on the full area.
Step 3 of 61 hour
Wet the tile and grout
Saturate the tile and grout with water for at least one hour before any remover goes on. Keep the surface wet while you work so it never dries out under the remover.
Careful. Don't apply the remover to a dry surface.
Step 4 of 6
Apply the cement haze remover
Use a ready-to-use remover as it comes. If yours is a concentrate, mix one part to three parts water for light haze, or use it full strength for heavy haze. Apply it to one small section at a time, enough that you can finish it in one pass.
Careful. Wear chemical-resistant gloves such as nitrile, and eye protection.
Step 5 of 6
Scrub each small area
Scrub the section with a white nylon bristle brush, working the haze loose from the grout and tile. Keep the solution on only as long as it takes to scrub, then move on to the next section.
Careful. Don't let the acid sit longer than it takes to scrub.
Step 6 of 6
Flush with water right away
Rinse each scrubbed section with clean water right after brushing, before you move to the next one. Every section needs its own flush, so none of the solution is left sitting on the surface.
Careful. Don't repeat acid washings; repeated acid washing can damage the surface.
If you'd rather buy than mix
Best products for cement
Choose a cement haze remover labeled for cured cement grout and acid-resistant tile, and check the label for dilution before you mix anything.
Amazon Basics Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
How we picked these: each product is made for this type of stain, its maker doesn't warn against using it on these surfaces, and its directions fit the steps above.
Finished the steps? How does it look?
Nice work. Let it dry completely and check it again in good light. Here is what done looks like:
How to tell it's really gone →A faint mark usually needs one more round, not a stronger product.
Heavy buildup usually takes more than one round.
Heavy or long-standing buildup →When to call a professional →Pick what it is on
Cement on every material
No match. Try the main search for anything else.
How to tell it's working
The job is done when the tile and grout look clear once they're dry, with no film left on the surface. If a faint film is still there, stop and reassess rather than reapplying the acid, because repeated acid washing can damage the surface.
What changes for yours
Adjust for where the stain is
Fresh grout haze within 10 days
Fresh haze is cleaned with a non-acidic cleanup product, not the acid remover. Mix 3 to 5 oz per gallon of water, wipe diagonally with a wrung-out sponge or towel, then wipe with clean water.
If the haze is still fresh, within 10 days of grouting, use the product full strength instead. Agitate with a white nylon pad or brush, let it dwell 5 to 10 minutes on stubborn spots, and rinse with clean water.
Epoxy grout haze
Epoxy haze needs an epoxy grout haze remover, applied undiluted. Pre-wet the surface, then brush, mop or pad it on about 15 square feet at a time, and avoid a sprayer.
Let it stand 30 to 60 minutes without letting it dry, misting with water if needed, then wipe up with dry cloths and rinse well. Wait 2 hours before foot traffic, and expect it to affect sealers, coatings, floor finishes and painted surfaces.
Mortar smears on stone veneer
Let the mortar dry completely first, then remove it with a dry whiskbroom only. The acid method doesn't apply to stone veneer.
Don't use a wet brush, a wire brush, a power washer or sandblasting, and keep acid away from the stone.
Marble, limestone and travertine
These stones can be etched, lightened or discolored by acid, so the cement haze remover is not an option here. Skip the acid steps entirely.
If the haze won't lift with water alone, call a stone professional rather than trying a stronger acid on the surface.
Heavy or long-standing buildup
Cement haze that has been on the tile for a long time is usually fully cured, so the basic method may only lift part of it. For that, a sulfamic acid cleaner is the next step, mixed at 2 to 3 oz per gallon of warm water for light haze on unglazed quarry or glazed tile with colored grout.
On unglazed tile or masonry with gray grout, use 6 to 12 oz per gallon instead. Mix it in a plastic container, never metal, and keep it away from metal fixtures.
If the haze is still there after one pass, rinse, let the tile dry and check it again. Repeated acid washing can damage the surface, so the realistic result is a lighter finish rather than a perfectly clean one, and a professional can do more.
Vinegar, baking soda, peroxide and more
Do home remedies work on cement?
Most household remedies don't break down cured cement haze, and some are unsafe on the surfaces that grout sits next to. The method above uses an acid remover because it's the one that does the job. Here is how each common remedy stacks up.
Skip5Avoid1
What makes it worse
Mistakes to avoid
Don't use acid on marble, limestone or travertine
Acid can etch, lighten or change the color of marble, limestone and travertine, along with metallic glazes and other polished stone. If the tile is any of these, skip the acid remover entirely.
Don't mix the remover with other cleaners
Don't mix a haze remover with other cleaners or chemicals, even ones that seem harmless. Use plain clean water for every rinse, and let each product have its own separate use.
Don't let acid touch metal
Keep acid remover off faucets, drains and other metal fixtures. Don't mix sulfamic acid in a metal container; use plastic buckets and tools for every acid solution.
Don't acid-clean new grout too early
New grout needs to cure for at least 10 days before any acid cleaner touches it. Within that window, use the non-acidic fresh-haze cleanup product instead.
When to call a professional
If the haze won't lift after the set-in step, or the surface is marble, limestone or travertine, call a tile or stone professional. They can judge the surface and the grout type before anything stronger goes on.
Questions
Is vinegar safe for cleaning grout?
No. White vinegar is unsafe on cement grout and on marble, limestone and travertine, so use a cement haze remover made for the job instead. Keep vinegar out of this cleaning altogether.
How long should I wait before cleaning new grout?
Wait at least 10 days for the grout to cure before you use any acid cleaner. Within 10 days of grouting, a non-acidic cleanup product is the right choice for fresh haze.
Can I use the same remover on epoxy grout?
No. Cement haze remover is not for epoxy haze, which needs an epoxy grout haze remover. Epoxy remover can affect sealers, coatings, floor finishes and painted surfaces, so protect them.
Can I use acid on marble?
No. Acid can etch, lighten or change the color of marble, limestone and travertine, so don't use an acid remover on them at all. A stone professional can help if the haze won't lift.
Does baking soda remove grout haze?
Baking soda won't do the job on cured haze, so skip it here. Stick with the cement haze remover, and keep baking soda for everyday cleaning.
How do I remove heavy old cement haze?
Heavy old haze usually needs a stronger mix, not repeated washings. Use sulfamic acid at 2 to 3 oz per gallon of warm water for light haze, or 6 to 12 oz per gallon for gray grout, and rinse well.
How do I remove mortar from stone veneer?
Let the mortar dry completely, then remove it with a dry whiskbroom only. Don't use a wet brush, wire brush, power washer, sandblasting or acid on stone veneer.
Related
How we know this
Every method, amount and warning here comes from university extension services, industry bodies and product makers. We read them, check every step for unsafe combinations and changed amounts, and write it up so you can follow it.